Balsa USA Bristol M-1 Kit

Which trim scheme should I do?


  • Total voters
    24

Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
So I was starting to think there was a reason that the Eko bond and Eko fill hadn't arrived, so I checked the website. Turns out it was only in the cart...

It should be arriving soon now that I'm actually ordering
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
So I was starting to think there was a reason that the Eko bond and Eko fill hadn't arrived, so I checked the website. Turns out it was only in the cart...

It should be arriving soon now that I'm actually ordering

:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I think we've all been there at least once...
 

Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
Ekobond and Ekofill arrived with what has to be the world's largest hand warmer to keep it from freezing outside. Now I have to get some servos before I cover the plane. I'm going to use the Flite Test standard sized servo for the elevator, and the cheaper Miuzei servos for everything else. There were 2 different aileron setup options, and I went for the slightly less scale, but simpler and maintenance friendly option, which one are you going for @Ggimlick ?
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Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
Started covering parts of the plane after I applied the Eco Bond yesterday. After I finished the first part (the elevator) I had decided on an iron heat setting, and By the time I got to the aileron I had developed a technique for the sealing parts that go over covering, but it leaves a border of residue which I will clean off tomorrow and will be invisible after the sealer and paint are put on. I may experiment with turning scrap pieces of Planetec into a homemade solartex by putting a thin coat of heat activated adhesive on it, and if that works I'll use that on all my other planetex covered aircraft in the future.
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J-Marc

New member
Hi ! this is me first interaction ever. I've been reading A LOT to gain tips from guys like you. THANKS !!!! NOW this being said, I'm also building a BUSA Bristol M1 and find a lots of discrepancies but manage to get around. I'm a builder/flyer since 1990 so I know the game :) But this one bugs me. On my kit, the wings ribs doesn't go up to the back to the rear sheeting plank (see photo) What do you suggest: leave it like this or trim it???? Thanks !
 

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Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
Hi ! this is me first interaction ever. I've been reading A LOT to gain tips from guys like you. THANKS !!!! NOW this being said, I'm also building a BUSA Bristol M1 and find a lots of discrepancies but manage to get around. I'm a builder/flyer since 1990 so I know the game :) But this one bugs me. On my kit, the wings ribs doesn't go up to the back to the rear sheeting plank (see photo) What do you suggest: leave it like this or trim it???? Thanks !
BUSA kits and plans are made in the UP of Michigan so the humidity difference can cause wood and paper to change shape a little. In their videos they always say to build to the wood, not the plans, so I guess that it’s ok. I’ve always been told to line up the wing based off of the main spar on the plan sheet and then build from there, and it worked for this build since the wings came out pretty aligned.
 

J-Marc

New member
BUSA kits and plans are made in the UP of Michigan so the humidity difference can cause wood and paper to change shape a little. In their videos they always say to build to the wood, not the plans, so I guess that it’s ok. I’ve always been told to line up the wing based off of the main spar on the plan sheet and then build from there, and it worked for this build since the wings came out pretty aligned.
Ok I knew this but the notches at the back of the ribs are 1/8 smaller than the width on the TE sheeting (coming from the same climate area makes me wonder....) Anyway! SO big question for final appearance with Monokote : leave it like this or trim it? Thanks Ryan O
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
Ok I knew this but the notches at the back of the ribs are 1/8 smaller than the width on the TE sheeting (coming from the same climate area makes me wonder....) Anyway! SO big question for final appearance with Monokote : leave it like this or trim it? Thanks Ryan O
It would be a lot of work but I'd build up the ribs with scrap balsa so they extend to the end of the trailing edge. Make it taller and longer than necessary and sand it down. If you use the scrap balsa the ribs were cut from the top curve is already cut for you.
 

J-Marc

New member
It would be a lot of work but I'd build up the ribs with scrap balsa so they extend to the end of the trailing edge. Make it taller and longer than necessary and sand it down. If you use the scrap balsa the ribs were cut from the top curve is already cut for you.
Ok I'll do this Toojung2die. Thanks !
 

Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
I did sone dry brushing but slightly overdid it in the cap. Since the leather was a one ofd mix I made yesterday I'd havebto repaint the entire torso and goggles too to fix it, and since this is only a test piece I'll stop painting this. I tried to go for a pilot returning from a flight look.
After:
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Before:
8F44B870-559C-497A-A976-FE9747A66835.jpeg
 

Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
Another benefit to running the 20cc at a capoed off throttle setting is the lower pitch sound will be more to the real life radial that was in this plane. I've also been looking for an after market side mounted muffler to replace the stock one. The stock muffler extends back too far, and I would need to give it an abnormally long nose to make it fit.
 

vhandon

Active member
I think it looks great. It took me a lot of trial and error to get the results I wanted when dry brushing.