Banggood 250 racer

[THATSATREE]

Ah yes, not only was it both upside-down and backwards, the holes were ~1mm too small

Got the frame assembled, will probably test-fit and set up electronics tomorrow.

I'll take pics later *yawns*

 

[jipp]

Ah yes, not only was it both upside-down and backwards, the holes were ~1mm too small

Got the frame assembled, will probably test-fit and set up electronics tomorrow.

I'll take pics later *yawns*

sounds good. was good thing to assemble first then.. instead of the frustration of trying to do so when you have wires going every where. one tip.. solder your ESC/motor PDB while they are off the frame.. trust me, it will save you a head ache.. i had no clue what i was doing when i assembled mine... i did everything the wrong way more or less, or just made things harder than they needed to be.. but im new to RC so its all a new to me.. so lots of learning.. i know on my next build i plan on doing things quite different.

chris.

 

[sajackson]

I recently built the Emax kit shown here. http://www.emaxmodel.com/views.asp?hw_id=1536 It looks to be the same kit. I didn't have any fitment issues though. It's a nice flying quad and I'm very happy with it.

As others have stated, I took my time assembling, dissembling, planning layout etc... until I came away with a nice, clean, balanced build. I also integrated FPV gear (FatShark Pilot HD V2 from the Teleporter V3 Kit) and plan to add a Mobius action cam. As it sits right now, I have a flight weight of 522g with a Giant Power 1300 mAh 3c http://giantpowerlipos.myshopify.co...special-lipo-battery-250-quad-fpv-low-cg-pack

My kit came with 6" carbon fiber props that I promptly broke so I ordered some 5" gemfan replacements as a cheap alternative while I build, test and tune. Now that I feel the build is complete and tuned well, I'll go back to the 6" carbon fiber.

I'll try to come up with some pictures to show you how it turned out.

Good Luck with your build!

 

[THATSATREE]

sounds good. was good thing to assemble first then.. instead of the frustration of trying to do so when you have wires going every where. one tip.. solder your ESC/motor PDB while they are off the frame.. trust me, it will save you a head ache.. i had no clue what i was doing when i assembled mine... i did everything the wrong way more or less, or just made things harder than they needed to be.. but im new to RC so its all a new to me.. so lots of learning.. i know on my next build i plan on doing things quite different.

chris.

Okay, soldered the escs and PDB (mostly)


Test-fit with packing tape

i had a bit of trouble with the soldering until i looked back at strat's post.
take a pair of pliers and squeeze the tip of the wire repeatedly, it strips off that lacquer coating

 

[THATSATREE]

Oh, by the way...
The wire and Deans connector that came with the kit... Confuse me. LOL

It has a deans connector and the wire that im supposed to solder to the PDB and the connector, but i cant figure out how i'm supposed to solder them.

Also, some pics of the frame.

 

[THATSATREE]

Also, if you connect the Emax escs directly to the motors, with no crossed wires, what direction would they spin?

 

[jipp]

Also, if you connect the Emax escs directly to the motors, with no crossed wires, what direction would they spin?

i never did find that out. you will just have to do what i did i guess. solder it up and hope for the best.. on my first attempt, i got 2 spinning the right direction. lol.. so you are bound two either get them right, or have to re-solder 2 motors.

chris.

 

[jipp]

Oh, by the way...
The wire and Deans connector that came with the kit... Confuse me. LOL

It has a deans connector and the wire that im supposed to solder to the PDB and the connector, but i cant figure out how i'm supposed to solder them.

Also, some pics of the frame.


View attachment 46705 View attachment 46706 View attachment 46707

i use XT60 connectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pairs-XT...045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417f90952d.. id assume you solder them up the same way, positive to positive yeah.. and then heat shrink to protect them. ( id check to see which way it plugs into the battery, probably not best to plug it in.. could short it out? ) then you will know which end needs to be soldered. be careful not to short it out tho.. i think that why the XT60 is nice.. can not plug it in backwards. and it can take more current.
so i would recommend you plan on switching to XT-60 down the road.. even if you have to get a adapter for your charger.
chris.

 

[THATSATREE]

i use XT60 connectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pairs-XT...045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417f90952d.. id assume you solder them up the same way, positive to positive yeah.. and then heat shrink to protect them. ( id check to see which way it plugs into the battery, probably not best to plug it in.. could short it out? ) then you will know which end needs to be soldered. be careful not to short it out tho.. i think that why the XT60 is nice.. can not plug it in backwards. and it can take more current.
so i would recommend you plan on switching to XT-60 down the road.. even if you have to get a adapter for your charger.
chris.

Yeah, I would love to switch to XT60, but im waiting till i order something from Hobbyking...

But i meant how am i going to solder those wires to the back end of the connector with no through holes?

 

[jipp]

you solder them to the metal tab.. you do not need a hole.

think of it as welding it to the metal.





chris.

 

[THATSATREE]

you solder them to the metal tab.. you do not need a hole.

think of it as welding it to the metal.





chris.

Any tips to make it stick

 

[Snarls]

Tin the metal tab and wire separately then join the two together by heating both at the same time. Helps if you have a pair of helping hands or at least something to hold the pieces for you.

 

[THATSATREE]

Tin the metal tab and wire separately then join the two together by heating both at the same time. Helps if you have a pair of helping hands or at least something to hold the pieces for you.

Alright! all built (actually finished up yesterday)
rushed a little with the OpenPilot setup, and my FC was crooked (still is ) so when i launched it, i cracked a prop before even leaving the ground.

Also, my charger is havin a little trouble, only one LED is working (Imax b3 maybe?)

Waiting on a new charger, some props, and a low voltage buzzer for now, we'll see...

Also, got a neat little aluminum case from my grandfather, used to hold plumbing supplies or something

 

[THATSATREE]

Hey again,
all the pieces went together, motors spool up at the same time, and Openpilot GCS shows level over USB telemetry. I clear the area, arm the controller, and then throttle up to about 25 percent.
Motors rev, quad tips back, and rear props hit the ground :black_eyed:
ive lost 2 already without a takeoff.
Any ideas?

 

[jipp]

im not sure what could be wrong. you cold try to fly in altitude mode ( self level ) see if the board is bad ( you said the board was in crooked, did you correct that? did you add some kind of foam to the bottom of the CC3D plastic protective case to help with vibration also? ).. one of the members board has a bad altitude but would work in rate mode.. im assuming the motors spin the correct direction, and your props are on right.. with letters facing up..

last thing comes to mind your center of gravity, have you played with that? that would cause your flipping problem i would imagine too.

it seems motor turning wrong direction, props on wrong, vibration to FC, and center of gravity are the first things to look into if you are having a quad that flips on take off.

one of other thought.. i can not tell which way your FC is facing or if its even level or if its foam on the corner and thin air on the other side.. if you are trying to take off and go forward and have it in back wards that would flip it too.. you could check that in GCS when you are setting up your TX.. moving your right stick up and down.. if its back words you could be flipping it by accident.. im just throwing out some ideas i would check..

chris.

 

[THATSATREE]

thanks jipp,
im sorry for the bad quality photos, taken on an old droid 2.
yes, the package came with some 3m double-sided foam tape, so i did end up securing the FC with that, and rotating it 90 degrees (in the software as well.)

when i read through your steps, i realized that yeah, my motor 2 was spinning backwards.
I thought i had gotten them all first try lol but no.

I'll fix that up and report back, hopefully thats the only issue, although the board did seem to gyrate a bunch when i throttled up in my hand.
the Imax B3 charger kicked the bucket finally, so waiting on a replacement.

 

[jipp]

glad it was something simple as that. also make sure your props are on correct or you will have the same issues.. yeah you may want to try to isolate the FC better if you get gyration in the air ( stuttering ).. but you maybe ok.
good luck.

im assuming your kit came with double sided foam tape about 1" square.. if so what i would do is cut it into 4 pieces and put one at each corner of your CC3D case.

i bought some double sided foam tape from office max.. for 5.00 and just doubled it up.. and used two strips on each side. you may want to reconsider remounting the FC.. if you do remount it.. i would recommend going through the setup again..

pretty much any time you do something with the quad its a good idea i think to run through the setup again..

chris.

p.s

what motors are you using? do they have a threaded shaft, or do you have to screw the threaded part on? if you do have to screw the threaded part om.. i would recommend making sure there is not to much slop in them that could be a cause of vibration too.. i think you are using emax if so they are threaded and no worries about this at all.