Build: 5 motor Electrohub

Yvo

Member
Tip

Oh, and that is not the carpet I am working on, but a towel. When I accidentally drop a small thing, it doesn't bounce away that quickly. Saves me searching on the floor.

Yvo
 
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Yvo

Member
Pin headers

Now I have a bundle of wires. To supply with 5 volt and 4.4 volt. And I have two times two motors that need to be connected to a single connector on the FC.

For the latter a Y cable is suited (with the + disabled), but I can use the same principle I used for the "power" wires:

  1. Take an experiment board with holes connected in a line.
  2. Take a few double line pin and three line pin headers.
  3. Cut everything to pieces.
  4. Solder together.
  5. Glue in.

(Usually my glue-work is clean, but the epoxy I used acted up...)

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Yvo

Member
Connections

And wiring connected bit by bit.

Note the first picture. This is the lead for the right two engines coming from the FC. The red wire is removed by which the BEC's from the ESC's are disabled.
The diode for the 4.4 volt is in place, but quick & dirty. Will be replaced by a more decent lead.

Now tidy up the wiring, check if everything connected as it should be, calibrate the ESC's and fire up the motors :cool:

To be continued...

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
Motors

Before the tidy up, I calibrated the motors. Went perfectly and the motors could be managed with the master slider in Cleanflight. Some spinning directions have to be changed, but that's easy.

However, when I throttled up with my transmitter, nothing happened...

Ah, have to arm the Naze32 first ;)

Looks like everything is working. Including gyro's the proper way.

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
Flight modes

I am flying with a Spektrum DX7 black edition, that is 7 channels. Seemed enough for flying planes and heli's, but now I am 2 channels short with all the possibilities in Cleanflight :p

Anyway, given that number of channels, my transmitter channels are configured as follows (all PPM'd to the Naze32, except for the gimbal pitch, that one goes directly from the AR7700 to the gimbal):

1. Throttle
2. Roll
3. Pith
4. Yaw
5. Camera gimbal pitch
6. Flight modes

This channel is assigned to a 3-position switch. Up is Acro mode, middle is Horizon mode en down is GPS hold mode (with Baro, Angle and Mag).

7. Lights

The led strips are very bright and I can imagine looking at the copter while flying, it gets perhaps annoying. So I assigned a 2-position switch to be able to switch the led strips off. Or I can switch them on only when needed. For flying at dusk for instance.

Yvo
 
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Yvo

Member
Building takes twice the estimated time and I am not that much in a building mood today. So to do:

  1. Tie wrap the motor wires.
  2. Mount the GPS module properly.
  3. Order and configure a new bluetooth module. I fried this one by connecting it wrong to the ftdi adapter...
  4. Balance the props. The motors are running smoothly, probably already pre-balanced.
  5. Double check everything.

(The long battery-mount-plate is now at the underside of the landing gear, gives more flexibility for balancing)

Stay tuned :cool:

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
One week to go...

She is basically ready to fly.

There will be a second camera mounting plate under the GPS mount for the gimbal and a second battery mounting plate at the rear to stick the video tx on. But both gimbal and video tx come later, fly first.

That will be probably next weekend, first days with decent/flyable weather. Rain and serious winds until then.

Maiden will not be filmed, second flight will :p

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
And

And the obligatory warning. It is said everywhere, but we cannot stress it enough.

When not flying, the props should (must) be off before a battery comes anywhere near the copter. Safety first. Better safe always then sorry, because when it goes wrong (and accidents happen fast), it is a big sorry.

And alway be very cautious with pets and kids around.

(Props were on in the picture above, but only for the picture. They're off already again)

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
In the meantime...

...I am still doubting the camera and gimbal.

I also drive Axial rc cars in which or on which the camera will be used, so a GoPro is just a touch too big. Doubting between the Mobius and Runcam now. The Runcam seems to give a slightly better image.

As for the 3-axis gimbal: A stable, light, reasonably priced and configurable in a decent way is preferred. The Geocalla G4-3D is the latest option.

But if any of you viewers has an idea for a "better" gimbal with which you have good experiences, drop a line.

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
Firmware

Currently, with the Cleanflight 1.12.0 firmware, I have the following flight modes configured:

1. Acro, for pure manual flight.
2. Horizon, which is self level I intend to use for maiden and as sort of simple panic mode.
3. GPS Hold, just for fun.

The third mode would have been RTH, return to home, but it seems that it doesn't include auto landing. And is limited in it's functionality anyway. And that seems to be because the basic Cleanflight firmware code doesn't handle the GPS very accurately. Not my words...

By coincidence I learned today that there is Cleanflight iNav firmware, in which the GPS code has been rewritten so that everything GPS related does function better. So that the GPS related functionalities can be improved. Which includes a true RTH mode: When enabled or initiated, choose the right height, go back home and actually land on the spot where the flight controller has been armed the last time.

Even waypoints can be configured. On the field. With an Android based device. Using a bluetooth adapter connected to the flight controller. So your drone can fly missions :cool:. For instance where you want to concentrate on aerial filming while the copter flies itself around.

And that's what I all want :cool:

Since the latest stable release (1.0.1) is only from February 17 this year, I will maiden this copter with the 1.12.0 Cleanflight firmware, but once I get the feeling of this copter, I'll switch to iNav and will use these modes:

1. Acro, for pure manual flight.
2. Horizon, which is self level I intend to use for maiden and as sort of simple panic mode.
3. RTH, the full return to home functionality, including autoland.

or - if that works better

1. Acro, for pure manual flight.
2. Poshold, for position hold on the x and y axes. Not the z axis although that mode is available as well.
3. RTH, the full return to home functionality, including autoland.

Don't know if it is allowed to link to another forum, but more information is on RC Groups.

(image source: https://quadmeup.shtr.eu/inav-cleanflight-learned-how-to-do-missions)

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
Weight

Now the copter is basically complete, weight is measured.

Including the 347 gram 4500 mAh lipo, but without gimbal and camera, the weight is 1595 gram. Or 56.26 oz.

Thrust per motor is 700 gram with a 3s lipo @ 11.1 Volt, so the total thrust is about 3500 gram which gives a thrust to weight ratio of 2.19:1. Just within the "limits" of 2:1.

The gimbal weight is 219 gram, the RunCam HD I will use is 41 gram. So 260 gram will be added (1855 gram total). Which gives a thrust to weight ratio of 1.88:1. With which each motor comes 42 gram thrust short :D
And bigger motors are heavier, so it takes quite a few steps to overcome the shortage.

So be it, the copter is intended for aerial cinematography and not for fast climbing.

Yvo
 

Yvo

Member
Props

Did some calculations. The Graupner E-props give some 40 gram more thrust per prop, without the max. current per motor being reached or even approached. So Graupner E-props it will be.

Yvo

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Yvo

Member
It was either the Dragonfly as kit plus the other motor mounts, landing gear and the fpv rail system or the Electrohub kit plus the Tough Tilt Motor Mount. The Electrohub as kit was more complete towards what I wanted my copter to be.

Yvo

Just curious but why did you chose the Y6 instead of the dragonfly kit?
 

Yvo

Member
Naze32 led status

GPS reception, at least regarding the NE-06, is poor inside my apartment. So no 3D fix.

Took the copter outside to test the other day. And had a 3D fix immediately. However, the red led on the Naze32 started blinking. And a red led usually is a warning. Took the copter inside, no read led. Took the copter outside, red blinking again.

There isn't much info available on the Naze32 led status's, but I finally discovered that a blinking red led actually means that there is a 3D fix. So it's an indicator for things being ok. Not a warning :p

For your information.

Yvo
 

Yvo

Member
Gimbal

Gimbal arrived, configured, balanced and attached. Very roughly. With a second rx to control pitch and yaw when needed. Otherwise only pitch will be controlled with my main tx. Which ran out of channels.

However, total weight is now 1900 gram. To be added as last items are a video tx with antenna. Together with all the additional wiring, the overall take-off weight will be around 1950 gram. With 5 x 700 gram = 3500 gram thrust. Which isn't enough.
So, to be able to fly this copter decently with a camera gimbal, I have to convert it to an Y6 configuration after all.

1950 gram + sixth motor and ESC will end up around a total weight of 2050 gram. And then 6 x 700 gram = 4200 gram thrust will be enough again.

So remove the gimbal, wait for good weather (disaster round here with all those winds) and fly. Decide what to do later.

Yvo

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