Building My first RC Large Model

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It looks great but it seems to have a 2.3 mm center hole while my motor has a 5mm shaft. I could be wrong, what is the exact diameter of that center hole please ?

 

[poor boy 101]

https://www.ebay.com/i/254144821459...MIlL2qk_fn5QIVS5yzCh1vBgwJEAQYDSABEgJHrPD_BwE here is the only spinner I could find. https://www.graupnerusa.com/Electri...MIovy48ffn5QIVTcDICh2B9gqLEAQYBCABEgLsMPD_BwE
Here is a prop to go with it.

 

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Back to the antennae, I changed my mind to a pair of Eachine K-Loverleaf mushroom that have excellent reviews and are cheap. These are 5Dbi ones so i'll have more range but a narrower beam, will it be that narrow and cause issues ?

 

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I'm back on this thread(sorry I had a lot to do lately). Im done with the wings, they are built and covered, the fuselage is almost done!

 

[PsyBorg]

Back to the antennae, I changed my mind to a pair of Eachine K-Loverleaf mushroom that have excellent reviews and are cheap. These are 5Dbi ones so i'll have more range but a narrower beam, will it be that narrow and cause issues ?

Its best if you can afford it to get goggles or monitors that have diversity antenna set ups. That way you can run a CP antenna for close in that cover 360 degrees and then us the patch antennas for longer range and just be aware of the craft in relation to which way you have the patch pointing so you can keep within that cone.

If you only have one antenna connection available then its a hard decision. CP antenna would be best but would have shorter range. The patch would give better range but really suck close in trying to keep it pointed at the aircraft. You would be constantly turning your head to find or keep good signal.

Its best to keep mated pairs of antennas no matter what brand you use on the aircraft and on the goggles. Mixing antennas may be better or may be worse as there is no real quality control for matching them specially when you are in that low level range gear.

I have always used these when I do use cloverleaf style antennas. and I KNOW these are solid and reliable. I got mine from GetFPV so I cant promise the banggood ones are not knock offs though.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...ig_IGvprvmAhXsUd8KHWvSB1wQ9aACegQICxA1&adurl=

 

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Oh, I just have something to say about banggood's safety… I bought the camera and goggles , they were supposed to be delivered in the save package but the camera was NEVER delivered ! So I don't think i'll buy on banggood again.

 

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Would a 3D printed firewall be strong enough to hold the motor ? I can print the part in PETG which is stronger than my PLA.

 

[mrjdstewart]

Would a 3D printed firewall be strong enough to hold the motor ? I can print the part in PETG which is stronger than my PLA.

i 3D print all my firewalls.

me

 

[speedbirdted]

Would a 3D printed firewall be strong enough to hold the motor ? I can print the part in PETG which is stronger than my PLA.

Due to the inherent lack of vibration and smooth running that a BLDC motor coupled with a well balanced prop offers, it can be made to work quite well given the mount is well designed. Do watch out for excessive motor heat though. I have had 3D printed mounts fail because the motor got hot enough for the plastic to lose strength.

 

[Hai-Lee]

Due to the inherent lack of vibration and smooth running that a BLDC motor coupled with a well balanced prop offers, it can be made to work quite well given the mount is well designed. Do watch out for excessive motor heat though. I have had 3D printed mounts fail because the motor got hot enough for the plastic to lose strength.

If you are concerned about the heat melting the mounting screw holes in a printed firewall you can use some insulated spacers to lift the motor slightly off of the surface of the printed firewall and block the heat generated and transferred to the mounting bolts from softening the plastic around the mounting holes.

I have tried the insulators used in mounting a TO3 packaged power transistor, (I have an electronics background), though a couple of fiber washers and a little paper/paper tape can provide a modicum of a heat barrier and slightly improved cooling airflow around the motor if coupled or combined with some cooling air holes in the firewall itself.

Just what worked for me!

Have fun!

 

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Sorry for not posting, I was really busy these days. But I have news ! I finished building the glider yesterday and I have done the first flight today. It flew exceptionnaly well for 40 seconds before the motor stopped working ! The 2 Meter wingspan allowed me to land the glider safely. The motor wires were ripped off but I disassembled it to repair it so now it works again.

 

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Hi, im back here beacause I finally got my FPV setup (Holybro AtlatlHVV2, Eachine EV800, Foxeer Predator Mini v4). The thing is that when I power the whole thing, it works really well but even when the Vsen pin isn't plugged to the battery, there's a voltage displayed on the goggles. Plugging it makes no difference. Is that ok ? Do I need to use that Vsen pin to have a reliable reading ?

Now that my motor is completely dead, I'll buy a B power pack. I already have the servos and a 20A ESC from my A power pack. Can I use it with the new motor from the B power pack or is it going to die ?