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Building my own Quadcopter

FDS

Well-known member
#61
Capacitors only smooth out voltage spikes. I run them just on the main battery input, wherever that is. You don’t need 4 on the ESC’s as well.
I would look at getting a cheap carbon frame, the ZMR250 clones are under $15 and are going to be much more rigid than anything printed. That would eliminate vibration from the equation, then you can look at other potential issues.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#62
At this point mate you need to make a decision to either continue this quest with the gear you have on the 3d print frame or to step into the realm of traditional quad building. Either way I will try and get you sorted out albeit at the expense that comes with experimentation.

If the white smoke left the motor that means to me it was over heating from being rev'd up and down too much by the FC and was over worked. More then likely when that motor shorted you can say good by to the esc as well. Its almost a guarantee the phase that fried in the motor now has a direct short thru the esc.

We will never know if the recent changes are the cause or this is results from previous heat issues and it finally gave up the ghost.

What ever your choice its probably best to film each flight so we have a better idea what direction to steer you in to achieve your goal. I have a feeling the idle noise you describe is due to yaw being so off track from anything I have ever flown. An example is after I spent weeks tuning my build on 4s the graduation to 5s added a grinding type noise at idle. that was due to too high yaw p and d settings most of that went away when I figured out where the issue was and cut yaw gains nearly in half.

Anyways dont fret we have all been there. I recently smoked too high end motors AND a 70 dollar 4 in one esc. Set me back about 6 months by the time I can buy the replacement to get back in the air. That was caused by my own skipping my routine of preflight and having screws work loose. No ones fault but my own.
 
#63
That's a very bad news,
I was able to update from an F3 to an F4 Flight Controller (as suggested by others) and I replaced the motors with a cheap "series" of 2207 (instead of the previous 2205RS) but I did not replaced the ESC...

I tested the circuits after soldering the new components and the check was ok (no beep of short circuit from multimeter)

the plan was to test tonight the Flight COntroller plugging it to the PC to calibrate the parameters... how can I check if the ESCs are ok or not?
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#64
Continuity check between the motor phase outputs back to the positive and negative inputs should revel the shorted phase on the esc. after the burnt up motor is unsoldered.
 
#65
it's been a while since my last update,

basically Psy was right and one of the ESC was fucked up by the FC. so I decided to stick to my "3d printed parts" plan and I've bought a lot of replacements. in fact they were so many I had spares enough to build a second 3d printed quadcopter (same design).

#1: Main Quadcopter
  1. FC: matek F405-CTR
  2. ESC: Wraith 32bit
  3. Motors: 2207 2600kv Samguk
  4. Props: 5040
  5. TVX: rush tank Race edition
  6. Camera: Foxeer Predator 4
#2: Trainer Quadcopter
  1. PDB: matek XT60 (probably fake one)
  2. FC: Gootoqomo betaflight Omnibus F4 (obviously a fake one)
  3. ESC: Racestar RS30a V2
  4. Motors: 2207 2750kv iflight
  5. Props: 5040
  6. TVX: NONE
  7. Camera: NONE
I've set up the FC parameters following your suggestion and yesterday I did my maiden flight for both of them...
the Trainer ( #2) had the same behaviour of the previous ones: esc overheat, motor overheat, I had to stop to avoid motor failure.
the Main (#1) was unbelievably smooth, no twitch, no issue at all, motors and esc were extremely cold, I depleted two "3cells 2200mah" batteries with no crash, no overheat and lot of fun. (at least from me)

so, this experienceI proved to me that:
  1. my 3d printed design was solid enough for my skill level (maybe when I will be able to do aerobatics I will have to switch to a carbon chassis)
  2. the "twitch" that screwed my first quad is somehow related to the FC.
Now I am installing a Matek F405-STD FC onto the # Trainer Quad to prove my theory.
if it will be confirmed then I swear I will not use non "genuine" parts anymore on any of my future quads. ;)