Comet Aeronca K

Bricks

Legendary member
The tissue paper that came in the kit and some very watered-down Elmer's glue.
Not sure I would use Elmers as any high humidity will cause it to loosen.

Not a bad write up on how to cover with tissue don`t agree with some a very good basic covering tutorial.
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Not sure I would use Elmers as any high humidity will cause it to loosen.

Not a bad write up on how to cover with tissue don`t agree with some a very good basic covering tutorial.
I did a Guillows F6F Hellcat last year with Elmers, it's still tight as a drum. My home is extremely humid in Summer, we have no AC. I did seal it with a light coat of spray paint, which probably helps, and I'll do the same for this one.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Started using Elmers for tissue going back to the '70's. works great. Now I'm more of a fan of glue sticks. I've found a lite cote of Krylon crystal clear gives it a nice dope-like finish. @MZ250Ben, nice job on the frame work.
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Just hit a bump-my rx/actuator/esc brick is no good. One servo does not work reliably, just sits there whining. The other works fantastic, as does the esc and motor. I've had more micro servos fail than work, to be honest, but I've had nothing but good stuff from Buzzard. I've emailed them, we'll see. I'd be ok if they just sent me a micro servo to use on the extra channel. Meanwhile, I dug a relic from my junkpile: a micro ecs/rx/dual servo board from some ancient coax eflite helicopter. THAT works, including both servos. It also has two motor outputs that are presumably pre-configured for differential thrust given the nature of a coax heli, so maybe a micro twin is in order?
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Good news: As expected, Buzzard replaced the faulty part without charge or hassle. In the meantime, I bought a similar one from Amazon, it's actually identical except the servo motors are slightly longer. Also, the amazon one does NOT include a motor/prop, an option to change protocol, nor is a motor connector soldered on the board. The one from Buzzard includes all this and more, so it's still the better value, IMO. I finally finished framing and shaping the nose and attached the wing. I added an upper spar of 1.5mm fiberglass rod to stiffen things up, since she was never meant to carry such weight! About 33 grams as she sits with battery, 75 squares of wing. She may not be a floater, but I expect a good flyer. I found that MIG wire makes handy pushrod stock, a perfect fit in the medium servo hole.
20251121_153811.jpg
20251121_153847.jpg
20251121_153900.jpg
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
It's been a minute, but I finally have some time to get the covering on. I found that a small box is helpful, except that it attracts unwanted assistants. Covering the fuse and stabs barely added 1g! I am using the original tissue, it has to be extra light for the age.
 

Attachments

  • aeron1.jpg
    aeron1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • aeron2.jpg
    aeron2.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • aeron3.jpg
    aeron3.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • aeron4.jpg
    aeron4.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Has this been done? I made a little shrink tube "socket" for the 1s battery. Seems to work well on the bench, but most battery mounts do, I suppose.
 

Attachments

  • 20260104_113940.jpg
    20260104_113940.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • 20260104_113921.jpg
    20260104_113921.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0

cyclone3350

Master member
Has this been done? I made a little shrink tube "socket" for the 1s battery. Seems to work well on the bench, but most battery mounts do, I suppose.
I like it! I did quite a few 1s builds such as what U R doing and got lazy and copied Horrizon using velcro on the bottom. After a while the the velcro wears out and the bat hangs down changing the cg whith each swing.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
I like it! I did quite a few 1s builds such as what U R doing and got lazy and copied Horrizon using velcro on the bottom. After a while the the velcro wears out and the bat hangs down changing the cg whith each swing.
I have a zip tie as a slip latch on my Night Vapor for this exact reason.
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Wrapped and painted, 37 grams with battery. I cracked up the celluloid for the windscreen so I'm going to have to improvise now. Maybe some cling wrap? Packing tape? I dunno. The MIG wire makes nice pushrods, I used the rubber insulator stripped from a junk motor wire to join the business ends on after assembly. I don't have any shrink tube that small, but the wire fits snug in this insulator so I can adjust then dab CA to lock it. Control horns from a spent gift card, hacked freehand to "that looks about right" specifications with an exact-o knife. Still some detail work to go and the floats.
20260111_144233.jpg
20260111_144241.jpg
 
Last edited:

Piotrsko

Legendary member
Typically the clear thin plastic stiff packaging works really well for windshields. It is weird walking around wallyworld fondling packaging. Sometimes it attracts the theft control people who aren't generally friendly at all
 

MZ250Ben

Well-known member
Typically the clear thin plastic stiff packaging works really well for windshields. It is weird walking around wallyworld fondling packaging. Sometimes it attracts the theft control people who aren't generally friendly at all
Good idea. Didn't take long to find a plastic egg carton with plenty of flat space!
 

Attachments

  • 20260112_115816.jpg
    20260112_115816.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0

Bricks

Legendary member
Soda bottles work well shaped with hot water from the stove. Made a wing spar from soda bottle rolled into a tight circle set in hot water let it cool darn near stiffer then carbon rod actually think it was much tougher.
 

Piotrsko

Legendary member
Iirc, tesco had a danish or maybe sweet rolls that was about 26", but only in one European city and I cant see going through customs with that unopened or otherwise