mrjdstewart
Legendary member
+1 on that. old, black DVD case work good too. use your control wire, heat it up, poke a hole through the horn to match. almost magic!
Curtiss P-40b Warhawk
- Thread starter Timmychanga
- Start date
+1 on that. old, black DVD case work good too. use your control wire, heat it up, poke a hole through the horn to match. almost magic!
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
yep I just use two layers of the gift card glued together
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
huh, not bad, I just spin the the sharp end or the end where the wire got cut, round and around with my hands until pokes through like a hand drill
Timmychanga
Member
The Best part about using gift cards is that they are FREE!!!
Timmychanga
Member
I have figured out that in order to have a scale propeller, it needs to have a 7" diameter. Unfortunately, that is too big for the Power pack F motor. how do I figure out what size motor to use, and what pitch to give the prop? (This is my first scratch build, so I am very ignorant about how to match up electronics)
)
Timmychanga
Member
Would this setup work?
This motor:https://store.flitetest.com/emax-cf2822-1200kv-motor-with-collet/
A 7X4 prop
A 12 Amp ESC
And a 800mAh 20c 3s lipo
This motor:https://store.flitetest.com/emax-cf2822-1200kv-motor-with-collet/
A 7X4 prop
A 12 Amp ESC
And a 800mAh 20c 3s lipo
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
I'd might work but it would be real heavy, but if you want to use that setup you should build the plane with more like a 30-35 inch wingspan
Timmychanga
Member
My problem is that in order to make the prop scale to the rest of the plane, I need to make it a 7" prop; And, as far as I know, the MT2204 motor (the one that comes with power pack F) can only swing a 6" prop. Will the propeller being an inch small affect the look of the plane enough for it to be a problem?
smithhayward
Large Child
I would say no. Especially in the air when it's rotating at 7,000 RPM. You can do what others often do, when it's on display (like at an airshow or waiting to be flown) you can put a scale 3-4 blade prop on it (my P-40B has a 4-blade) but then just swap it to fly.
I have the FMS 980mm P-40B. It runs on 4S and a 70AMP ESC and it's a handful - I'm still not qualified to fly her, though I've been certified in crashing her twice.
I'll be watching - a small P-40B is right up my alley and I have a few 3S 850mAh packs lying around looking for a mate.
Timmychanga
Member
Thanks. Currently for the plans, I have been doing a rough sketch in a 3d modeling software (called Blender), measuring the sides, angles, and (for the curvy parts) measuring the length at certain intervals and free handing it, so most of my plans would be gibberish to anyone but me. If there is an easy way to draw up plans that can be put in PDF form and printed out, I would be interested in knowing about it.
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smithhayward
Large Child
Thanks. Currently for the plans, I have been doing a rough sketch in a 3d modeling software (called Blender), measuring the sides, angles, and (for the curvy parts) measuring the length at certain intervals and free handing it, so most of my plans would be gibberish to anyone but me. If there is an easy way to draw up plans that can be put in PDF form and printed out, I would be interested in knowing about it
I work extensively in Blender for both 3D printing design and photorealistic rendering. I am still working on the process by which I could take a 3D form (mesh) of a DTFB type design and get it out into a 2D form (via Unwrapping) so I can cut parts either manually or via laser. If you're interested go start a new thread and we can work on this together outside of the context of this build of yours.
I think it's going to come down to working with SEAMS and unwrapping, then outputting the unwrapped textures (I think there's a way to mark a clean image with the outlines of the texture/wrap) and then get it into a 2D-CAD program (I use and like LibreCAD - it's free). The last step would be to scale it so that key dimensions are accurate then do some test cuts (or prints and tape togethers).
Nate J
Member
That's awesome to hear from another Blender user!!! My process is building the airframe completely in 3D, use the solidify modifier to get the thicknesses right for the folds, and use shape keys to "unwrap" the mesh til its flat. Then I take a snapshot of the unwrapped wireframe mesh and write the dimensions on the page. Worked beautifully for my Cessna.
Timmychanga
Member
All that I really know how to do is basic modeling. Where do you think I should post the new thread?
Timmychanga
Member
I Just made my Mighty Mini Arrow into two half-arrows.
So I will have to postpone my p-40 until I have rebuilt my arrow (which should only take two or three days).
So I will have to postpone my p-40 until I have rebuilt my arrow (which should only take two or three days).
Aww man... Hope it was fun making that dent and not like hitting it in a car door.
Timmychanga
Member
I was chasing a bird and lost orientation.
Timmychanga
Member
It is fixed.
Now back to building the p-40.
Now back to building the p-40.
Timmychanga
Member
Update: I have pretty much completely scrapped my fuselage old design. I have decided to stay as close to the mighty mini mustang as possible, only changing the shape of it to match the p-40. I have re-cut the fuselage, using the plans for the mini mustang, but changing to shape to look like a p-40. I did not change the tail at all. i am currently working on building the wing. as soon as I get the electronics, I hope to assemble the fuselage, tail, and wing. From there, all I have to do is design the top of the fuselage (I think it is called the turtle deck) and then figure out a way to make it into plans.
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Timmychanga
Member
I was thinking of putting landing gear on the p-40, but is it worth it?
