Cutting FB by Hand

[Dazzy]

I ordered an EleksMaker to convert to a needle cutter but the distributor couldnt supply the machine and my bucks are now being returned.

Has anyone successfully cut out a plan by hand?

Does anyone know of a video or tips that I can use for getting good cutting results by hand?

Thanks

Darryl

 

[Flyingshark]

I cut out my FT Spitfire by hand, so yes, I have successfully cut out a plan by hand. I printed out the tiled plans of it and glued them to a sheet of poster board, like Josh suggests in this video:

I cut the outline out before cutting the foam board. (I've heard of people cutting the templates at the same time as the foam board after taping the plan onto the sheet of foam board.) I ended up using a small nail to punch holes through the plan and the foam board at the corners of places you were supposed to cut out, to mark the right point on the foam board, and then connected them by drawing a line using a ruler. I did this for the cutouts to fit the spar tabs on the lower surface of the wing.

In terms of what knives/blades I used, I just found a 100-pack of razor blades like what FliteTest uses in their build videos, and for the small cutouts and other tight curves and corners, I used a small xacto knife with a #11 blade.

(Sorry if this is too much detail and not enough visual aids/links. I'm happy to go find the things I used on Amazon and link them if that's useful.)

Hope this helps!

 

[OliverW]

I ordered an EleksMaker to convert to a needle cutter but the distributor couldnt supply the machine and my bucks are now being returned.

Has anyone successfully cut out a plan by hand?

Does anyone know of a video or tips that I can use for getting good cutting results by hand?

Thanks

Darryl

I've cut almost all my builds by hand. You can get great results from it as long as you work slowly and use a sharp exacto knife

 

[JasonK]

I have cut all my builds out by hand. it just takes a slow steady hand and a sharp knife. (most cuts should take 2-3 passes, if you getting through in 1 your probably pushing too hard).

 

[Dazzy]

Thanks guys it the very least it gives me confidence in cutting by hand.

 

[clolsonus]

I'm working my way through a goblin plan build (I figured it would be a simpler design for my first try at a plan build.) I printed out the plans on my inkjet printer; made very sure the scale came out right after printing. Then I lined everything up and taped the sheets together for each piece of foamboard. Then I needle pricked the entire plan onto the foam board with an old t-pin from my balsa building days ... hitting the corners and all the important points, and extra points along the curve. I removed the plans and immediately re-drew in the lines with a pencil and long aluminum straight edge. Then cut out with a single sided razor blade (but my right index finger was numb for a week after that.) :-( Despite the nerve injury which is fine now, everything came out great. The main issue was then how to make the firewall (I have an old craftsman jigsaw so I cut it out that way and drilled holes for the motor mount.) I think if you take your time and work slowly, you can come out with something nicer than a pre-cut kit. The laser cut kits melt a big "U" of foam away from the edges where the razor cut edges are nice and straight. (But laser cutting saves time and it always perfect, so that's not bad either.) Anyway, it takes some time to build from plans, but it works just fine. I Just need to make my control horns now and I can continue on with the build.

 

[whackflyer]

I cut all my planes by hand, I bought a 100 pack of X-Acto blades and I change the blade out every time I've cut a few sheets or after I've cut skewers etc with it. I can cut through cleanly in one pass, no problems. It just takes patience and practice.

 

[Merv]

I agree with @whackflyer, the trick to hand cutting is a sharp blade. I prefer utility blades, buy them by the 100 at the big box store for less than $10. I prefer using them in a box cutter handle.

 

[PsyBorg]

I use utility blades and keep a sheet of 1500 grit emery paper handy to "strop" the blade if it starts misbehaving. I dont throw a blade away till it starts showing signs of rust. Then once everything is cut I go over the edges and bevels with a foam style emery board to make it all smooth and pretty. To finish it off all exposed foam edges get a coating of white gorilla wood glue which soaks well into the paper edges and seals the foam nicely for painting.

 

[Hai-Lee]

I ordered an EleksMaker to convert to a needle cutter but the distributor couldnt supply the machine and my bucks are now being returned.

Has anyone successfully cut out a plan by hand?

Does anyone know of a video or tips that I can use for getting good cutting results by hand?

Thanks

Darryl

I have cut out in excess of 100 models from FB. Whilst now I can cut straight lines and good curves freehand it was not always so.

You would be advised to get a good 1 metre steel ruler for guiding the blade on long straight cuts and hinge lines as well as some sandpaper to smooth those troublesome curves after cutting.

A good sharp knife is mandatory as is a surface to cut the FB on.

Apart from that you will find it is quite simple.

Have fun!

 

[Monte.C]

Yes, yes and yes.
And for me I prefer not to glue plans to foamboard. I just cut little windows in each piece of paper and tape them to the FB.

 

[dap35]

I'm working through my first scratch build. I also use the pushpin and straight edge method. I also am liking the results of ironing the edges to bevel them instead of leaving square edges. It also works very well on the hinge lines.

 

[GremlinRC]

I ordered an EleksMaker to convert to a needle cutter but the distributor couldnt supply the machine and my bucks are now being returned.l

I know this is not the question you asked but just a suggestion here. You could invest the bucks in a 3D printer instead and then use it to help make an MPCNC and needle cutter? Then you would have the best of both worlds. CNC for cutting the foamboard and a 3D printer for printing control horns, firewalls and all kinds of other cool stuff.

Of course you can cut by hand but after a while it starts to get tedious.

 

[bwarz]

All of my plans so far are cut by hand. What I've settled on is using Loctite 100 to attach the plans to the fb for cutting out. Benefit to that glue is that it can easily be removed after cutting out. This method keeps the plans well attached and gives very accurate results. I've gotten handles for the utility blades so they don't hurt the finger so much on cutting. Change blades often! I've gotten into the habit of a new blade per build (building minis now) at a minimum, expecting to use multiple blade when I graduate to master series. Cut inside lines an such before cutting the part out. Better to use multiple passes as opposed to trying to cut through on one pass. Cut the parts out rough before the accurate cuts, or at least get manageable sizes... this makes it easier for me when the material isn't so large so I can move the material as much as I move the blade. I like using a clear triangle or straight edge so I can see the whole plan while I'm lining up the edge to cut.

 

[bwarz]

I know this is not the question you asked but just a suggestion here. You could invest the bucks in a 3D printer instead and then use it to help make an MPCNC and needle cutter? Then you would have the best of both worlds. CNC for cutting the foamboard and a 3D printer for printing control horns, firewalls and all kinds of other cool stuff.

Of course you can cut by hand but after a while it starts to get tedious.

+1 on the 3d printer, although I've gotten comfortable with cutting, the 3d printer has given me firewalls, power pods, control horns, radial engines... all kinds of fun detail parts! Even the utility blade handles that I use to cut things out.

 

[Dazzy]

Thank you for all the replies here, I recently bought an Ender3 3D printer for use in my workshop and Im having a great time with it. 😜

Hey @Hai-Lee would you mind if I contact you privately since we live in the same state?

 

[Hai-Lee]

Thank you for all the replies here, I recently bought an Ender3 3D printer for use in my workshop and Im having a great time with it. 😜

Hey @Hai-Lee would you mind if I contact you privately since we live in the same state?

Anytime is OK!

 

[Dazzy]

Anytime is OK!

Hey @Hai-Lee could you pm me your mobile number then I will call you.
Darryl

 

[randyrls]

Has anyone successfully cut out a plan by hand?

Darryl; Yes; When I purchase a speed build kit, is never used except as a template to make more of that plane.

I print out the plan of each part separately. Then tape up each part. It is much easier with fewer pages. I use small pieces of Scotch 811 tape. This is like post-it note adhesive (removeable) but in tape form. When perfect, use the packing tape to make the alignment permanent.

I put the part on top of the foam board, then use a "T" pin to mark each critical point. I have three metal cork backed rulers of different lengths (12", 24", & 36"). For straight lines, put pins in the critical points. Lay your ruler against the pins and run the knife along the cut line. Look on Ebay for "Dissecting Knives" (straight blades work best). These scalpels are sharper than any utility blade. You can cut yourself without noticing (Don't Ask!). Always handle the blade with pliers never fingers. Dispose of in a scrap of foam sealed shut with hot glue. I have a utility knife with a "Score Blade". This is dull on the tip so it will not cut thru the paper on bottom of foam. A French curve can be used for curved cuts.

I am going to stop cutting control surface bevels on foam board. I tried using an iron and it works SOOO MUCH BETTER! Don't know if there is a video on this, Jon turned me onto this.

 

[Dazzy]

Darryl; Yes; When I purchase a speed build kit, is never used except as a template to make more of that plane.

I print out the plan of each part separately. Then tape up each part. It is much easier with fewer pages. I use small pieces of Scotch 811 tape. This is like post-it note adhesive (removeable) but in tape form. When perfect, use the packing tape to make the alignment permanent.

I put the part on top of the foam board, then use a "T" pin to mark each critical point. I have three metal cork backed rulers of different lengths (12", 24", & 36"). For straight lines, put pins in the critical points. Lay your ruler against the pins and run the knife along the cut line. Look on Ebay for "Dissecting Knives" (straight blades work best). These scalpels are sharper than any utility blade. You can cut yourself without noticing (Don't Ask!). Always handle the blade with pliers never fingers. Dispose of in a scrap of foam sealed shut with hot glue. I have a utility knife with a "Score Blade". This is dull on the tip so it will not cut thru the paper on bottom of foam. A French curve can be used for curved cuts.

I am going to stop cutting control surface bevels on foam board. I tried using an iron and it works SOOO MUCH BETTER! Don't know if there is a video on this, Jon turned me onto this.

Hey @randyrls thanks for the heads up, cutting by hand can be flukey to get things just right. I do like the idea of a scalpel thats extra sharp, gotta look into that. Thanks mate.