Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!

[rockyboy]

David, I trust your packing is going well and the move will also go smoothly! I finally got a user's for these forums, as it seems the needle/cnc discussion is much more alive and well here (as you noted during our visit.) I followed your lead and picked up a 2.5 watt laser for my machine and temporarily swapped out the needle cutter. Wow, that thing is potent! I tried a simple circle in square gcode on card stock at full power and burned through it and can inch of pink foam of my vacuum table! I now have it tamed and have been cutting N numbers for my planes from colored packing tape. Tape on glass plate, and Model Plane Foam under the glass to stop the penetration. (Interesting that while laser won't cut MPF, it lights it up, diffusing the beam, so works as a spoiler board). I got some vinyl and transfer film from Michael's yesterday and cut some numbers and logos in it. At a 40 setting it burns a 1/32 line in vinyl, but leaves the release paper intact. Worked well! View attachment 142534

Is this is type of laser you're using? Thinking of making an addition to my Lowrider CNC

https://www.ebay.com/itm/450nm-2-5W...raver-DIY-Laser/202649425418?var=502727185391

 

[dkj4linux]

David, I trust your packing is going well and the move will also go smoothly! I finally got a user's for these forums, as it seems the needle/cnc discussion is much more alive and well here (as you noted during our visit.) I followed your lead and picked up a 2.5 watt laser for my machine and temporarily swapped out the needle cutter. Wow, that thing is potent! I tried a simple circle in square gcode on card stock at full power and burned through it and can inch of pink foam of my vacuum table! I now have it tamed and have been cutting N numbers for my planes from colored packing tape. Tape on glass plate, and Model Plane Foam under the glass to stop the penetration. (Interesting that while laser won't cut MPF, it lights it up, diffusing the beam, so works as a spoiler board). I got some vinyl and transfer film from Michael's yesterday and cut some numbers and logos in it. At a 40 setting it burns a 1/32 line in vinyl, but leaves the release paper intact. Worked well! View attachment 142534

Good to hear, Mike, that you're getting laser capability going. I look forward to seeing more pics of your creations. Good looking plane BTW

This sorting/packing crap is one of the hardest things I've ever had to do. About 3-4 generations of accumulated "stuff"... very much of it just sentimental value, lots of "one of these days I'll need this" things, and a crap ton of stuff I just thought was neat but really had/have little use for and was just too lazy to throw out and/or haul to the dump. And recognizing that "one of these days" is now here and/or gone I'm having a dickens of a time emotionally detaching from almost everything I pick up. Needless to say, I've had almost no time to play (other than a little golf with a remaining close friend)... and I just try to keep up with the forums during my rest breaks

I had thought my last move (1980) would be my last... as I settled in on my grandparents old home place. I had hoped I'd be able to keep it all intact and spend the remainder of my days here... and also leave a nice place for my kids to inherit. But TxDOT saw fit to reroute the highway right through the middle of my small 10 acre garden spot... and now my heart is not in it. And jobs and families have scattered my kids to the four winds... with virtually no hope of any of them ever wanting to settle into rural East Texas again, on a severely less desirable homestead, and with few/no jobs to be had that they've been educated/trained to do and that will enable them to grow/support their families.

So, now, I'm by myself... a widower and having lost all but one of my closest friends, there's little left for me here. Thankfully, my daughter and her family want to be a part of my "growing old" experience and want me close-by. So I'll be living next door, in my own (rented) house, that should allow me enough independence and room to continue playing with my hobbies while I've still got reasonably good health and a semi-clear mind... but will afford the closeness/care/support of family that, at some point in the not too far distant future, I'll probably need.

I'm sorry about all the personal stuff but since this is "my" thread and it'd take me longer to erase and redo... I'm going to just leave it.

It's good to hear from you, Mike. Please keep me/us posted as to what you are up to. Hopefully, in a couple of months, I'll be settled in and able to start playing again. Later.

-- David

 

[Springer]

Rockyboy, I got this one from Banggood: https://www.banggood.com/EleksMaker...-1266171.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA
It plugged right into the laser output of my eleksmaker 3 axis main board and ran right off the bat. It uses a 3 wire plug, +,-,signal for TTL ( I guess) variable power control. Easily managed in Gcode using the M03 S40 (40 is any number from 0 to 255). The one you linked to looks to be similar although I can't see a low power switch which mine has. I find that useful when setting up the workpiece on the cutter. I set the laser at low power, and run the x axis to see if the dot is constant to the edge of workpiece. If it has that, I'm ok with it. I use banggood for most all my stuff, because they have been consistently good on delivery, and the very few times I have had a problem, they have made it right. And, they are almost always the lowest price.

EDIT: I just looked at the picture again, and I think there is a black button of the laser that might be a low power switch.

David, I feel for you, don't know how I would manage to get rid of my whole barn full of stuff if I ever had to move! Once you get settled, you may still find it hard to play with your "toys" if grandkids take up your time! (ask me how I know that!)

 

[Keno]

I found this design to the best of all others, it runs with mineable vibration. I had to make some design adjustments by increasing the fly wheel's length dimension of to accommodate two inline bearings and the 3MM screw (shaft) head. This further stabilized the shaft. I also beefed up the overall mount as you show in the foam ripper design and added wings to mount it to the burly tool pad. I prefer to use Emax's GT series motors for their smooth running and power. Therefore, I changed the motor to fly wheel mounting to use 4 2.5MM screws. Thanks for all the great ideas guys and by putting them together it has provided self with a nice working MPCNC needle cutter.
Ken.

Not sure exactly why but the slip-on flywheel I'm using now seemed to balance and run smoothly right off the bat... and with just a SWAG (scientific wild-a$$ guess) at how much counter-weight to add. My primary goal had been to shorten the "cantilever" and the motor bell itself serve as the "flywheel"... but a pleasant discovery was the very smooth operation up to 10k rpm as well.

 

[dkj4linux]

Ken, sounds like you're on to something... but I'm not clear on what you've got. Did you do something similar to the slip-on flywheel? Any pictures to share? -- David

 

[Keno]

Ken, sounds like you're on to something... but I'm not clear on what you've got. Did you do something similar to the slip-on flywheel? Any pictures to share? -- David

It is the slip on. On the original design of the fly wheel it had 1 bearing and I could not get my shaft, 3MM screw, to hold stabilize (Wobble) So I added a second bearing inline with the first. This provided the shaft stabilization that I desired, Nothing wrong with the bearing hole dimensions there just was not enough "meat" for its seating. I am using PLA filament. Also I needed a bit more depth for the screw head. On the mount I did not add bearing guides, No vibration no need. I do note that my wire feed nozzle needs added heat sinking to radiate heat. I think Headbang has offered advice on this and I will probably use it. I am just a old retired Coastie that was required to solve problems. 78 here. Thanks David and wish you the best on you relocation, Ken

 

[dkj4linux]

It is the slip on. On the original design of the fly wheel it had 1 bearing and I could not get my shaft, 3MM screw, to hold stabilize (Wobble) So I added a second bearing inline with the first. This provided the shaft stabilization that I desired, Nothing wrong with the bearing hole dimensions there just was not enough "meat" for its seating. I am using PLA filament. Also I needed a bit more depth for the screw head. On the mount I did not add bearing guides, No vibration no need. I do note that my wire feed nozzle needs added heat sinking to radiate heat. I think Headbang has offered advice on this and I will probably use it. I am just a old retired Coastie that was required to solve problems. 78 here. Thanks David and wish you the best on you relocation, Ken

Sounds great, Ken. Thanks!

 

[Keno]

This is the needle cutter that I have settled on after reviewing many of your posts and ideas. I incorporated what I thought to be the best ideas, suggestion and recommendations. I have been busy printing parts and trying different approaches and ideas. I thank all for posts that contributed to my needle cutter.

It runs smooth and the only vibration is the movement of the needle. I used no guides. I have to do more testing on the heat produced by needle movement through the wire feed nozzle. I added a heatsink that can be found on Amazon or eBay to dissipate heat (sorry for the glue mess). I shortened the needle throw to improve "needle tracking" and reduce vibration, noted it does reduce cut depth. I try to keep the wire feed nozzle as close to the cuttings surface as possible. Unseen on the pictures; I inserted two bearing inline to stabilize the 3mm screw shaft wobble, also too provided more "meat" to seat these bearings. I use Emax GT series motors which does not require a shaft to mount the flywheel. To use a motor requiring shaft to flywheel mount, a change to the flywheel would be necessary.

EDIT: The last pix is of it in its final config., ready to install. I had to wait for my speed control to arrive. Tomorrow we cut plans.
David how is your relocation proceeding? Thanks for you kind words. Forgot something, I found you can so to speak fine tune out vibration by shorting or lengthen the counter weight screw. Ken

 

[dkj4linux]

I like it, Ken! I've been hoping someone would incorporate the slip-on flywheel with the basic cutter body... and make a really compact simple cutter. And, it looks like you've done that beautifully. Thank you.

 

[Kratho]

Trying to print MPCNC improved needle cutter by Michael763 the .STL 3D model looks great however when I slice it there are layers missing some how. I have tweeted all the setting I can with no luck.

Does anyone have a needle cutter pre-.STL they would be willing to share?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2545595

 

[Keno]

I have the one shown above in my post. You are welcome to it DXF,STL or other format if I have it.

 

[Kratho]

That would be great! I appreciate the offer. Your version it what I was leaning towards. Especially the outrunner fly wheel! Very exciting! The .025 music wire and heat sync I ordered are scheduled to arrive today. I would need to modify the DXF slightly as the motor I have on hand slightly different than yours. What’s a good way to retrieve the files over this forum?

 

[Keno]

That would be great! I appreciate the offer. Your version it what I was leaning towards. Especially the outrunner fly wheel! Very exciting! The .025 music wire and heat sync I ordered are scheduled to arrive today. I would need to modify the DXF slightly as the motor I have on hand slightly different than yours. What’s a good way to retrieve the files over this forum?

I get them ready for you I have to go uptown for about a hour be back to do it shortly

 

[Keno]

These are as you noted, flywheel and possibly the cutter body would need changes to suit your motor. I did deepen the counter weight screw hole so it could be used as set screw for a motor shaft. You could deepen another hole position to have more flexibility to adjust the counter balance weight. The needle stabilization bearings used by Michael763 is not a bad idea it may lessen needle flexing in that area. I use different flywheels with needle with throws of 12mm, 10mm and 8mm. Also I am thinking of upsizing my needle dia. to see if it would reduce "needle drag/wag" when cutting. I keep my welding tip nozzle as close to the cutting material as I can.
Well I hope the helps and please review dkj4linux and others post as they contain great info.
Ken
Edit: I don't think this is the way to get it to you I have not done this before so a little education is in order. I am pretty sure I would have to Email it to you.

 

[Kratho]

These are as you noted, flywheel and possibly the cutter body would need changes to suit your motor. I did deepen the counter weight screw hole so it could be used as set screw for a motor shaft. You could deepen another hole position to have more flexibility to adjust the counter balance weight. The needle stabilization bearings used by Michael763 is not a bad idea it may lessen needle flexing in that area. I use different flywheels with needle with throws of 12mm, 10mm and 8mm. Also I am thinking of upsizing my needle dia. to see if it would reduce "needle drag/wag" when cutting. I keep my welding tip nozzle as close to the cutting material as I can.
Well I hope the helps and please review dkj4linux and others post as they contain great info.
Ken
Edit: I don't think this is the way to get it to you I have not done this before so a little education is in order. I am pretty sure I would have to Email it to you.

This is a perfect way to share as long as you don't mind everyone having access to the files.
I have downloaded the .DXF and .STL for both items and I thank you again for sharing!

Can you please share your motor model when you have a minute I looked up the GT series and like it more than the one i intended to use.

Also what 3D modeling software did you do your design in. I have been tinkering around with the free ones but haven't settled on a particular.


MPCNC pen plotter worked great now just for needle cutting!

 

[Michael9865]

Trying to print MPCNC improved needle cutter by Michael763 the .STL 3D model looks great however when I slice it there are layers missing some how. I have tweeted all the setting I can with no luck.

Does anyone have a needle cutter pre-.STL they would be willing to share?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2545595

I am pretty sure that this is the SketchUp file for that cutter.

 

[Keno]

This is a perfect way to share as long as you don't mind everyone having access to the files.
I have downloaded the .DXF and .STL for both items and I thank you again for sharing!

Can you please share your motor model when you have a minute I looked up the GT series and like it more than the one i intended to use.

Also what 3D modeling software did you do your design in. I have been tinkering around with the free ones but haven't settled on a particular.


MPCNC pen plotter worked great now just for needle cutting!

I am using a GT2215-09 and I use ViaCad Pro. V11. I do want to note that the design I am using is a mixer of a lot of others designs. I just took what I thought to be the best ideas and recommendation and assembled into my needle cutter. I really can not take much credit for any of it.
If somebody wants to take it further have at it. I am sure it can be improved but at present it working great for me..

 

[Keno]

I am pretty sure that this is the SketchUp file for that cutter.

For some reason I am having trouble viewing your attachment. I will have to install Sketchup and take a look Thanks for the post.

 

[Headbang]

These are as you noted, flywheel and possibly the cutter body would need changes to suit your motor. I did deepen the counter weight screw hole so it could be used as set screw for a motor shaft. You could deepen another hole position to have more flexibility to adjust the counter balance weight. The needle stabilization bearings used by Michael763 is not a bad idea it may lessen needle flexing in that area. I use different flywheels with needle with throws of 12mm, 10mm and 8mm. Also I am thinking of upsizing my needle dia. to see if it would reduce "needle drag/wag" when cutting. I keep my welding tip nozzle as close to the cutting material as I can.
Well I hope the helps and please review dkj4linux and others post as they contain great info.
Ken
Edit: I don't think this is the way to get it to you I have not done this before so a little education is in order. I am pretty sure I would have to Email it to you.

All good points, I started off using .025 wire with a .030 mig tip, later I went to .030 wire and things got better. Keeping the stroke length down to a minimum makes a big difference! Next time I want to try a 7mm stroke. Use 8mm right now. I have designed a new cutter, just on hold as I lost my bearings (in more ways then one) and need to get around to finding them or getting new ones.

 

[Kratho]

I am pretty sure that this is the SketchUp file for that cutter.

Thank you for sharing!

at least i know it's not my splicing software! the same holes are in the .Skp file