Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!

Headbang

Master member
Balanced out nicely with a 2mmx10mm socket head bolt. Bearing is pressed in with a tiny bit of ca for good measure. Used a 2mmx12mm through the bearing. Motor is a 2213 985kv. Might need to modify for a 2205 2300kv tho. This motor max rpm on 12v under load will be around 10500rpm.
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dkj4linux

Elite member
Quick question... IDK the answer... you guys are making these slip-on flywheels with solid/near-solid faces. Does there need to be any cooling air flow through these motors at all? I know they pretty well loaf along in this application, and there's no prop to move air, and they generally run pretty cool out in the open air... but have you run these now nearly-enclosed motors long enough to notice the any significant warming?

Looks really good... and I love the fact your cutters are running as smoothly as they do. I'm pretty well shut down now -- moving in 8-10 days -- but really interested in what you guys are doing. Keep up the good work!

-- David
 

Headbang

Master member
Quick question... IDK the answer... you guys are making these slip-on flywheels with solid/near-solid faces. Does there need to be any cooling air flow through these motors at all? I know they pretty well loaf along in this application, and there's no prop to move air, and they generally run pretty cool out in the open air... but have you run these now nearly-enclosed motors long enough to notice the any significant warming?

Looks really good... and I love the fact your cutters are running as smoothly as they do. I'm pretty well shut down now -- moving in 8-10 days -- but really interested in what you guys are doing. Keep up the good work!

-- David
On one hand the amp draw is under 1amp, so not a lot of heat generated. BUT I was going to add 2 5mm holes in the side anyways before I print the next one. Was considering putting them at an angle so they force a little air through.
 

Keno

Well-known member
I went to the Emax 2215 GT series motor for the reason the David bring to our attention. I had heat problems with smaller motor. I have noted no severs heating problems using this motor. The heating problems I had was the issue with the needle guide or wire feed nozzle but when I added the heat sink that took care of the problem, Headbang brought this out in his earlier posts. Just as a suggestion; I would prefer the slip on part to be shortened. This allows the motor to "breath" and shed its heat.
Ken
 

Headbang

Master member
I went to the Emax 2215 GT series motor for the reason the David bring to our attention. I had heat problems with smaller motor. I have noted no severs heating problems using this motor. The heating problems I had was the issue with the needle guide or wire feed nozzle but when I added the heat sink that took care of the problem, Headbang brought this out in his earlier posts. Just as a suggestion; I would prefer the slip on part to be shortened. This allows the motor to "breath" and shed its heat.
Ken
I will most likely build one with a higher kv motor in order to ramp up rpm. I am shooting for 15k rpm. New design has only 0.002" play in the mig tip, so threading the mig tip up through an old 486 heatsink (I have a bunch of these), as well as wrapping it with 14 guage copper wire. And as I said, I had planned to take the 2mins to add air holes on my next sleeve print.
 

Keno

Well-known member
I can see where you are going here. With that 486 heat sink I would hope that it would take care of the heat problem. But having only .002" clearance in you mig tip, it would surely develop heat. I am not to sure about the air holes thing. As to what air you put in it has to be exhausted to have any effect. Maybe I am not seeing the whole picture here so forgive me if I am thinking wrong. I prefer to leave at least 1/2 to 2/3s of the motor exposed. I ask this question, how much sleeve on the motor do you need to stabilize the flywheel to the motor? The fly wheel less than the sleeve need to accommodate the bearing(s) and screw heads so not to interfere with the rotation of the needle shaft. I am very interested in your end product please keep us informed. Opinions are expressed but not required to be followed.
Ken
 

Headbang

Master member
I can see where you are going here. With that 486 heat sink I would hope that it would take care of the heat problem. But having only .002" clearance in you mig tip, it would surely develop heat. I am not to sure about the air holes thing. As to what air you put in it has to be exhausted to have any effect. Maybe I am not seeing the whole picture here so forgive me if I am thinking wrong. I prefer to leave at least 1/2 to 2/3s of the motor exposed. I ask this question, how much sleeve on the motor do you need to stabilize the flywheel to the motor? The fly wheel less than the sleeve need to accommodate the bearing(s) and screw heads so not to interfere with the rotation of the needle shaft. I am very interested in your end product please keep us informed. Opinions are expressed but not required to be followed.
Ken
As with everything I do, it could all fail.
The motor naturally pulls air from front to back. You can feel this if you spin up the motor while holding the back of it (not the safest thing to do). The holes just stop the dead air space on the front of the motor from being dead air. And if done right they would even suck a little air in and through the motor. The can on the motor does not dissipate much heat, I see little benefit to having it exposed. The longer the sleeve the more stable it will be potentially.
One thing to note, even tho I will happily share, my design is very specific to the motor, bearings, and heatsinks I have on hand. For the same reason I fired up fusion 360 and started from scratch, it is almost easier to start from scratch and design around the parts you have on hand.
 

Keno

Well-known member
Ah, that I know as mine is also adapted for a specific motor. I also started from scratch (many times) and a program crashed did not help. Anyway let us know on your final. I onto a new CAD project (printed) to aid in launching my powered sailplanes. We are entering into winter here and nasty weather is already showing itself with snow in the hills. Hopefully next spring will usher in another great flying season for us. Take care.
Ken
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
Some thoughts...

As one who has shared a few new designs and ideas of his own in this thread, I've always worked from scratch and with what I had. And as I've shared these designs/ideas, I've been amazed to see how many folks have been able to roll their own perfectly good/better version. In my experience it's most often not as much the WHAT we do... it's more often the HOW and WHY we do it. So don't be shy about sharing as much as you're comfortable sharing. We've got some pretty sharp and generous folks here, from different backgrounds, with different ideas, and using different tools and workflows... but that doesn't stop us from taking ideas and adapting our own tools and ideas to some neat new toy that's been shared with us. In fact, I'm pretty sure most of us actually ENJOY and get a big kick out of it... and love putting our own unique spin on an idea. And the needle cutter is much better today because of the many folks who've shared their work. What fun it's been to see... :)

Case in point: I've played with higher cutter RPMs and feed rates, using the best cutter I had at the time... and been largely unsuccessful at improving either the cuts or cutter performance. But now Headbang thinks he may now have a cutter that can run on up to 15k RPMs... and I'm VERY INTERESTED to see how he pulls it off. I'm excited about it and want to know more! Double the cutter speed, double the feed rate... and halve the time to cut a sheet of parts. If I was cutting as many sheets of foam as he does, I'd certainly want that. And I, for one, will be grateful to know HOW he does it... so I/we too can give it a rip.

I love it! Let's keep it up :)

-- David
 

Kratho

New member
I am using a GT2215-09 and I use ViaCad Pro. V11. I do want to note that the design I am using is a mixer of a lot of others designs. I just took what I thought to be the best ideas and recommendation and assembled into my needle cutter. I really can not take much credit for any of it.
If somebody wants to take it further have at it. I am sure it can be improved but at present it working great for me..

Thanks Keno!

Your design works great I have already cut the 3 pieces I need to make a vacuum table.

Hopefully I’m not askin too much here. Do you think you would have a minute to angle the 4 mounting slots to match the angle of the mounting wings and re-share the file?

Also what did you do with the motor shaft protruding out the back. I drilled a hole in the tool mounting plate. Maybe there was an option I missed.

Thanks again for sharing!
 

Keno

Well-known member
I see what I can do on the slots I had not thought about that. I will work on it. On the motor I cut off the shaft's extra length. Make sure you cover all the motor holes so you don't get metal parts in it then used a Dremel metal cutting wheel. Better get to it..
Ken
 

Kratho

New member
I see what I can do on the slots I had not thought about that. I will work on it. On the motor I cut off the shaft's extra length. Make sure you cover all the motor holes so you don't get metal parts in it then used a Dremel metal cutting wheel. Better get to it..
Ken

Thank you sir!
 

Keno

Well-known member
Thanks Keno!

Your design works great I have already cut the 3 pieces I need to make a vacuum table.

Hopefully I’m not askin too much here. Do you think you would have a minute to angle the 4 mounting slots to match the angle of the mounting wings and re-share the file?

Also what did you do with the motor shaft protruding out the back. I drilled a hole in the tool mounting plate. Maybe there was an option I missed.

Thanks again for sharing!
I edit my first post on the attachments. They are updated, I missed that error they should have been at the same plane as the wings. Thanks for bring it to my attention. Happy to hear its working for you.
Ken