Cutting Plans Out

The Hangar

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why don't you guys just use pieces of masking tape to hold the plans on the foam board and then trace them onto the foam board, and use a pin to mark the middle cut outs. you do not have to trace the whole thing just the most difficult parts like rounded corners, the corners just make a mark that connects the straight lines you would them use a ruler to make the lines connect. i have never made a video but maybe i should make one and show you how i do my scratch builds.
Hmm, that’s a good idea. I use the pin thing for when I make a copy of a sbk, but never from the paper plans. I’ll have to try that for a (near) future build. For the mustang I want to try the spread adhesive.
 

sprzout

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why don't you guys just use pieces of masking tape to hold the plans on the foam board and then trace them onto the foam board, and use a pin to mark the middle cut outs. you do not have to trace the whole thing just the most difficult parts like rounded corners, the corners just make a mark that connects the straight lines you would them use a ruler to make the lines connect. i have never made a video but maybe i should make one and show you how i do my scratch builds.

I've tried taping it on, and the patterns always seem to shift on me when I mark/cut it, so I don't get accurate cuts. I've fought with that method, and for me, I gave it up as being a PITA. :) Doesn't mean I hate the idea; if it works for you, keep doing it! :)
 
M

MCNC

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why don't you guys just use pieces of masking tape to hold the plans on the foam board and then trace them onto the foam board, and use a pin to mark the middle cut outs. you do not have to trace the whole thing just the most difficult parts like rounded corners, the corners just make a mark that connects the straight lines you would them use a ruler to make the lines connect. i have never made a video but maybe i should make one and show you how i do my scratch builds.

I use this method as well, but since I have not built many planes, I always use 77 to glue the plans to poster board, cut that out to create a reusable permanent templates then to trace or connect the pinhole dots as you do.
 

Zetoyoc

Elite member
I am lucky enough to have an old scroll saw I picked up for a few bucks off Craig's list. It doesn't need to be super good for cutting foam. It has a pretty large throat and helps me keep my cuts straight and smooth. So the pins or tape don't work as well for me.

I'll trim the plans so I can use a glue stick to fix them to a full sheet of foam and then cut that out on the saw. I'll still need to come back and cut the inside cuts or cutouts with a razor blade later as well as the %50 cuts. I am not sure it it saves me any time and may even be slower. But it is the method I have gotten used to. My cuts do all end up pretty smooth and perpendicular though.
 

SP0NZ

FT CAD Gremlin
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I actually do not use poster board anymore for my templates. I print the tiled plans on card stock. Splice them all together and cut out the individual pieces. I use t-pins to hold them on the foam board to trace out the parts (just like I did with the poster board). No more messy spray glue and the card stock templates fold up and store nicely.
 
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Zetoyoc

Elite member
I actually do not use poster board anymore for my templates. I print the tiles plans on card stock. Splice then all together and cut out the individual pieces. I use t-pins to hold them on the foam board to trace out the parts (just like I did with the poster board). No more messy spray glue and the card stock templates fold up and store nicely.
I may have to try that. it sounds like a nice way to do it and id have a plan ready if i need new parts or want another.
 

sprzout

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I actually do not use poster board anymore for my templates. I print the tiles plans on card stock. Splice then all together and cut out the individual pieces. I use t-pins to hold them on the foam board to trace out the parts (just like I did with the poster board). No more messy spray glue and the card stock templates fold up and store nicely.

Card stock, huh? I can't run that through my printer without it binding up; apparently, it's a little too heavy for it to make it around the rollers.
 

The Hangar

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I got this:
74A96B6F-34D1-4260-810F-96FC64CF89BA.jpeg

Does it look right?
 

RustySocket

Active member
I actually do not use poster board anymore for my templates. I print the tiled plans on card stock. Splice them all together and cut out the individual pieces. I use t-pins to hold them on the foam board to trace out the parts (just like I did with the poster board). No more messy spray glue and the card stock templates fold up and store nicely.

@SP0NZ
What weight cardstock do you print on? I believe my laser printer will print on cardstock through the manual feeder, but I cant find any references to what weight paper is preferred.

I am experimenting with a hybrid technique using the pinhole method mixed with templates to trace on some of the curved parts. Trying to minimize the cutting out of cardstock for the areas that can just as easily be drawn on the board itself with a straightedge and then have the curved pieces set up to trace.

Not sure if it's a timesaver, but its been something I've been thinking about.
 
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sprzout

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I got this: View attachment 150524
Does it look right?

I've used that stuff before; it works great for tacking to the foamboard. :)

I also use this:

1580253487562.png


I've gotten it at JOANN Fabrics when they have some of their 50-60% off one item coupons, and it ends up being cheaper than the Elmer's, with a larger amount of adhesive. Only issue I have is that the nozzle seems to gum up faster than with the Elmer's spray glue, so I usually have to scrape it a little bit to clear it after a couple of uses.

They both do the same purpose, and I use both, depending on which one is cheaper with coupons when I need to buy a can. :)
 

The Hangar

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I've used that stuff before; it works great for tacking to the foamboard. :)

I also use this:

View attachment 156089

I've gotten it at JOANN Fabrics when they have some of their 50-60% off one item coupons, and it ends up being cheaper than the Elmer's, with a larger amount of adhesive. Only issue I have is that the nozzle seems to gum up faster than with the Elmer's spray glue, so I usually have to scrape it a little bit to clear it after a couple of uses.

They both do the same purpose, and I use both, depending on which one is cheaper with coupons when I need to buy a can. :)
I’ll try that one when I run out is the Elmer’s. Thanks!
 

sprzout

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I’ll try that one when I run out is the Elmer’s. Thanks!

NP. They both work the same, from what I've been able to tell; mainly, I buy one or the other depending on where I am in town. I've got a Hobby Lobby down the street from me that always has 40% one item coupons, and I can get the Elmer's there, but it's not open on Sundays so I don't go there too often. The Michael's around the corner has Elmer's and Loctite, but their coupons aren't that great anymore (as of late, it's only been 20% off my entire purchase). I have a JOANN across town next to the grocery store my wife likes to shop at, so if we're going grocery shopping and I need some, I run in there - and they usually have 40-60% off coupons.

All depends on where I am when I need it. :)
 

RustySocket

Active member
NP. They both work the same, from what I've been able to tell; mainly, I buy one or the other depending on where I am in town. I've got a Hobby Lobby down the street from me that always has 40% one item coupons, and I can get the Elmer's there, but it's not open on Sundays so I don't go there too often. The Michael's around the corner has Elmer's and Loctite, but their coupons aren't that great anymore (as of late, it's only been 20% off my entire purchase). I have a JOANN across town next to the grocery store my wife likes to shop at, so if we're going grocery shopping and I need some, I run in there - and they usually have 40-60% off coupons.

All depends on where I am when I need it. :)

I hit that 40% off coupon on a regular basis. Helps a lot. If i'm in a pinch I send my wife in too.
 

Cobra1365

Active member
What about plans that don’t have dimensions listed? How do you expand say a wing from one piece of paper into the correct dimension to then assemble a template (assuming no tiles of course).

thanks
 

sprzout

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What about plans that don’t have dimensions listed? How do you expand say a wing from one piece of paper into the correct dimension to then assemble a template (assuming no tiles of course).

thanks

Not sure I understand - are you asking how to scale up from a non-tiled set of plans, like where it's all printed on 1 sheet?
 

Cobra1365

Active member
Not sure I understand - are you asking how to scale up from a non-tiled set of plans, like where it's all printed on 1 sheet?
Yes. If I’m looking at a set of plans with no dimensions given, how do I scale that up to the size I want? Some of the scale bars assume we’ve done this before.

i did figure out how to print tiles in Adobe. So, that will help immensely.
 

sprzout

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Only suggestion I would have is to print out the original plans for 100%, measure, and then scale up from there. Keep in mind that in building with foam, you may need different support structures to make it stiffer/stronger; also, keep in mind that not everything should be scaled - for example, holes/folds involving the thickness of the foamboard shouldn't necessarily be scaled up or else things may not fit.
 

checkerboardflyer

Well-known member
I just try to split the lines. As stated above, it really doesn't matter, it just keeps my cuts consistent. I'm one of those people who spends WAY too much time trying to get that perfect. That's just me, and it definitely slows down my builds. It makes me happy, though. :)

Good advice. Someone once told me "it's only foam board."