Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Thanks, i think that Depron is a kind of Foamboard without paper.
DC3/C47 2 meters / 6,5 foot twin electric plane
- Thread starter Jetcrafter_2000
- Start date
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- Tags
- c 47 dc3 scrach build twin motor ww2
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Today i started with a new motorpod.
The old design was a fail because it wasn´t really stable.
Now i have enought space to place the retracts and it is more stable.
As you can see the ground structure is angled, not round.
But i´ll attach some circle parts to it to make it round.
The gear is installed on a 4mm (0,16 inch) thick ply wood and the weelfork is mouted to 2 sandwiched 6mm depron plates with a carbon fiber spar in it.
The whole motorpod will be mounted to the wing with the naps at the end.
The onely thing to do is mounting the servo for the gear, mounting the motor and cut out the cross section of the wing at the red marked area.
I hope it´ll be strong enough to hold the plane at landing.
By the way, my dad threw a chain of light from crismas into the scrapcontainer because the light was to cold.
Fortunately i saw that and now i have about 50 verry light LED´s in my drawer and i decided to instal a few of them on the Dc3!
The bad thing is, that the LED´s are not flat or round, they are verry ugly in their shape.
They have something like a hole in their top so they can sptinklre the light and don´t point it to one point.
I have now clue how to fix that!
But now a few pictures without any comments:
But now i have two pictures with a comment
Until the pictures had uploaded i got an idea due to the LED´s!
I cut of the top and sanded it to a nice flat surface.
Then i painted the sides with olive green oil-based paint so the light can´t escape to the sides.
But the top surface is not transparent so its not efficient anymore! How can i fix that?
Thanks for your attention!
Jetcrafter2000
The old design was a fail because it wasn´t really stable.
Now i have enought space to place the retracts and it is more stable.
As you can see the ground structure is angled, not round.
But i´ll attach some circle parts to it to make it round.
The gear is installed on a 4mm (0,16 inch) thick ply wood and the weelfork is mouted to 2 sandwiched 6mm depron plates with a carbon fiber spar in it.
The whole motorpod will be mounted to the wing with the naps at the end.
The onely thing to do is mounting the servo for the gear, mounting the motor and cut out the cross section of the wing at the red marked area.
I hope it´ll be strong enough to hold the plane at landing.
By the way, my dad threw a chain of light from crismas into the scrapcontainer because the light was to cold.
Fortunately i saw that and now i have about 50 verry light LED´s in my drawer and i decided to instal a few of them on the Dc3!
The bad thing is, that the LED´s are not flat or round, they are verry ugly in their shape.
They have something like a hole in their top so they can sptinklre the light and don´t point it to one point.
I have now clue how to fix that!
But now a few pictures without any comments:
But now i have two pictures with a comment
Until the pictures had uploaded i got an idea due to the LED´s!
I cut of the top and sanded it to a nice flat surface.
Then i painted the sides with olive green oil-based paint so the light can´t escape to the sides.
But the top surface is not transparent so its not efficient anymore! How can i fix that?
Thanks for your attention!
Jetcrafter2000
Last edited:
Try polishing the top of the LED - even something as simple as rubbing it back and forth very fast over a cotton cloth held very flat on a board with some toothpaste as a rubbing compound should help. Also look into various ways that people re-polish old car headlight lenses to get them working good again.
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Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Thanks, i could polish ot with my dremel tool, that´s no problem.
I do also have proffesional rubbing compound.
I do also have proffesional rubbing compound.
Even try a heat gun or a flame. If you have a bunch, use one as a test.
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Also a good idea but i don´t want to burn the paint.
Anyway i´ll try it.
Anyway i´ll try it.
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Hi guis!
I just wanna tell you that i´m still alive. :applause:
I´ll get my glue on monday but until the weekend i´ll work at my FT Corsair.
Have a nice day!
Jetcrafter2000
I just wanna tell you that i´m still alive. :applause:
I´ll get my glue on monday but until the weekend i´ll work at my FT Corsair.
Have a nice day!
Jetcrafter2000
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Hi guys!
On monday ingut my glue and other things for the Dc3.
I bought superglue, a servotester, a bunch of hinges and GFK rudderhorns.
Next i went to the computer and write a progam for my Arduino.
I don´t want to buy a lightsytem for 50 bucks and one LED for 5 bucks! (MultiLight)
An Arduino is much cheaper and you can do much more things with it.
The arduino is now comparing the PWM from the RX with a kind of number for this PWM ratio.
For mode information click HERE.
The whole program is:
byte rx = 11;
int a = 12;
int b = 13;
int rx2;
int rot = 2;
int gruen = 3;
int blitz = 4;
int llR = 5;
int llL = 6;
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(rx, INPUT);
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode(rot, OUTPUT);
pinMode(gruen, OUTPUT);
pinMode(blitz, OUTPUT);
pinMode(llR, OUTPUT);
pinMode(llL, OUTPUT);
pinMode(a, OUTPUT);
pinMode(b, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
rx2 = pulseIn(rx, HIGH);
Serial.println(rx2);
digitalWrite(a, HIGH);
digitalWrite(b, LOW);
if(rx2 < 1000){
digitalWrite(llR, HIGH);
digitalWrite(llL, HIGH);
digitalWrite(rot, HIGH);
digitalWrite(gruen, HIGH);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(blitz, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
}
else{
digitalWrite(rot, LOW);
digitalWrite(gruen, LOW);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
digitalWrite(llR, LOW);
digitalWrite(llL, LOW);
}
}
If you have a Arduino you can copy it into your programing window!
a and b are provision pins for the RX, gruen means green, rot means red and blitz means flash.
llR and llL means landinglights right and left.
And rx is the input pin for the signalwire from the reciver.
Next i made the wingconnection because i don´t want to change the flaps with the ailerons when i build it up.
Then i put the servoplugs into one of these little bags, which you have in a mass if you build RC planes.
I have to go to school now so i´ll continue this post in the evening!
Bye!
Jetcrafter2000
On monday ingut my glue and other things for the Dc3.
I bought superglue, a servotester, a bunch of hinges and GFK rudderhorns.
Next i went to the computer and write a progam for my Arduino.
I don´t want to buy a lightsytem for 50 bucks and one LED for 5 bucks! (MultiLight)
An Arduino is much cheaper and you can do much more things with it.
The arduino is now comparing the PWM from the RX with a kind of number for this PWM ratio.
For mode information click HERE.
The whole program is:
byte rx = 11;
int a = 12;
int b = 13;
int rx2;
int rot = 2;
int gruen = 3;
int blitz = 4;
int llR = 5;
int llL = 6;
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(rx, INPUT);
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode(rot, OUTPUT);
pinMode(gruen, OUTPUT);
pinMode(blitz, OUTPUT);
pinMode(llR, OUTPUT);
pinMode(llL, OUTPUT);
pinMode(a, OUTPUT);
pinMode(b, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
rx2 = pulseIn(rx, HIGH);
Serial.println(rx2);
digitalWrite(a, HIGH);
digitalWrite(b, LOW);
if(rx2 < 1000){
digitalWrite(llR, HIGH);
digitalWrite(llL, HIGH);
digitalWrite(rot, HIGH);
digitalWrite(gruen, HIGH);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(blitz, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
}
else{
digitalWrite(rot, LOW);
digitalWrite(gruen, LOW);
digitalWrite(blitz, LOW);
digitalWrite(llR, LOW);
digitalWrite(llL, LOW);
}
}
If you have a Arduino you can copy it into your programing window!
a and b are provision pins for the RX, gruen means green, rot means red and blitz means flash.
llR and llL means landinglights right and left.
And rx is the input pin for the signalwire from the reciver.
Next i made the wingconnection because i don´t want to change the flaps with the ailerons when i build it up.
Then i put the servoplugs into one of these little bags, which you have in a mass if you build RC planes.
I have to go to school now so i´ll continue this post in the evening!
Bye!
Jetcrafter2000
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Im back from school!
Man, i hate y=x²! (For anyone who doesn´t now what this means: I HATE PARABOLAS!)
So after this little crachcourse to my mathlesson today i´ll continue the buildingreport.
I made the secound wingconnection so the wing can´t turn itself around the carbontube.
I made it like in the monster-build-tips-video from the FT guys or in the thread "The other XB-70 build" in this forum (ypou should know it).
And here is the secound peace of my servoconnection.
Now i onely have to Measure out the space between this connection and reciver (rx is a shortcut for reciver, is that right?) and buy connection wires with this lengh.
Well, thats it until yet .
BUT i have a questin for you!
How can i fasten the outer to the inner wingpart, i don´t want that the wing ejects from the fuselage douring flight by itself.
Every idea is welcome!
See you!
Jetcrafter2000
Man, i hate y=x²! (For anyone who doesn´t now what this means: I HATE PARABOLAS!)
So after this little crachcourse to my mathlesson today i´ll continue the buildingreport
.I made the secound wingconnection so the wing can´t turn itself around the carbontube.
I made it like in the monster-build-tips-video from the FT guys or in the thread "The other XB-70 build" in this forum (ypou should know it).
And here is the secound peace of my servoconnection.
Now i onely have to Measure out the space between this connection and reciver (rx is a shortcut for reciver, is that right?) and buy connection wires with this lengh.
Well, thats it until yet
.BUT i have a questin for you!
How can i fasten the outer to the inner wingpart, i don´t want that the wing ejects from the fuselage douring flight by itself.
Every idea is welcome!
See you!
Jetcrafter2000
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Pieliker96
Elite member
Looking great!
For attaching the wings to the fuselage, put a screw or two through the spar. There are several ways of installing the screws:
-Drill a pilot hole just smaller than the threads, have the bolt tap into the wood (does not require a nut)
-Drill a hole just as large as the threads and secure it with a nut at the other end (the nut can also be placed into a notch into the bottom wood piece, so that it is flush with the bottom piece and doesn't spin)
But the most important part is to drill the holes with the wings installed and in the right place. This will line all of the holes up perfectly and eliminate the need for measuring and guesswork.
The screw head can rest in a hole just below the surface of the foam to hide it.
For attaching the wings to the fuselage, put a screw or two through the spar. There are several ways of installing the screws:
-Drill a pilot hole just smaller than the threads, have the bolt tap into the wood (does not require a nut)
-Drill a hole just as large as the threads and secure it with a nut at the other end (the nut can also be placed into a notch into the bottom wood piece, so that it is flush with the bottom piece and doesn't spin)
But the most important part is to drill the holes with the wings installed and in the right place. This will line all of the holes up perfectly and eliminate the need for measuring and guesswork.
The screw head can rest in a hole just below the surface of the foam to hide it.
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Thanks!
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Hi, i´m back again!
I decided to build a "scale" cokpit for the Dc3.
Well, the "scale" cokpit is more or less a peace of cardboard with a few LED´s in it.
There is one LED, which has got a function.
The gear-control-light, which iis a green and a red LED in one peace.
I build two tiny swiches into the motorpod with the retracts so i can power the green LED, if the gear is down and the red LED, if the gear is up.
Here are few pictures of this:
Next i found a little camera from a tiny drone.
I cut it of because the drone had a broken motor.
I saw that there was a black, a red and a white cable so i thought, it would probabely be controlled like a servo with a PWM.
I pluged it to my servotester and there was a blue LED but nothing happend when i turned the potentiometer.
Do you have a clue how i can run this thing?
Today i also build the first landinglight.
I took two led´s from a pretty light flashlight and put a bit of cables on them.
By the way, thanks to my dad because he gave me a whole bunch of cables in all sizes and colors.
Thanks for your attention!
Jetcrafter2000
I decided to build a "scale" cokpit for the Dc3.
Well, the "scale" cokpit is more or less a peace of cardboard with a few LED´s in it.
There is one LED, which has got a function.
The gear-control-light, which iis a green and a red LED in one peace.
I build two tiny swiches into the motorpod with the retracts so i can power the green LED, if the gear is down and the red LED, if the gear is up.
Here are few pictures of this:
Next i found a little camera from a tiny drone.
I cut it of because the drone had a broken motor.
I saw that there was a black, a red and a white cable so i thought, it would probabely be controlled like a servo with a PWM.
I pluged it to my servotester and there was a blue LED but nothing happend when i turned the potentiometer.
Do you have a clue how i can run this thing?
Today i also build the first landinglight.
I took two led´s from a pretty light flashlight and put a bit of cables on them.
By the way, thanks to my dad because he gave me a whole bunch of cables in all sizes and colors.
Thanks for your attention!
Jetcrafter2000
Last edited:
Camera wires are usually Red for + black for - and yellow/white/etc. for signal out. The signal wire would go to a VTx or DVR module.
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Thank´s for the awnser!
The images are saved on the micro SD card as you can see.
And if the white cable would be an output, how would the RX be able to take images and videos?
The electronics you can see is NOT the reciver!
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Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Sorry, I didn't see the SD card slot on there. I'm guessing the camera was controlled by the Tx on the old drone? Do you have a link to the drone it came from?
Jetcrafter_2000
Member
Well, i got a dublepack of reclaimed drones for about 10$. (I tested them and they both work pretty well )
They don´t dump reclaimed droness into the rubish, they sell them verry cheap so you can take them apart and use the motors, cameras and so on again.
HERE is a link to the original drone.
)They don´t dump reclaimed droness into the rubish, they sell them verry cheap so you can take them apart and use the motors, cameras and so on again.
HERE is a link to the original drone.
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