True. If only hairspray didn't smell so bad
@flyboa - I couldn't get a micro Rx locally so I went with the FSiA6 which is pretty small at 40x21x7 and with the case removed and soldered pins it should work ok - I got a 180mAh 2cell and a micro UBEC to complete the electronics - I should be able to fit these up front - I will post the completed assembly!
Tape is probably best. Once you saturate the paper it starts to delaminate.
Minwax or varathane work great, light coat brushed on and then wipe it off right away with paper towel, just do small sections at a time... not if it's misted on. even hairspray will add water resistance
Minwax or varathane work great, light coat brushed on and then wipe it off right away with paper towel, just do small sections at a time
Thanks @bracesport. I finally found a picture online today and realized folks are adapting their connectors to make things work. I just have to decide to pull the trigger on some things today.@mwbyrd - here is my FSiA6 in the nose with a micro UBEC and a later version with a Frsky GrX8 (totally overkill) - these days I am using the Frsky RX6R which is pretty hi-tech but very small (almost the same size as the pins)!
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I sprayed rubbing alcohol on adams board, let it soak for 10 seconds and the paper came off super easy.I tossed the ailerons away (easy to make new ones) and started stripping the foam wings - the Adams board is not so friendly for paper removal so I tried both the dampened cloth and then some denatured alcohol on the old ailerons, but it did not really do the trick - in the end, I managed to peel the paper off making sure to lift and peel evenly - in some places I needed to cut through the paper to make strips about 4cm wide which peeled easier - phew!
@flyboa 's fuse/tail is about 70g all-up-weight so the to go under 200g (maybe 180g) my wing needs to be around 100g - so far the weight drop is almost half and I plan to thin the foil section to 5-6% so the weight will drop a bit further before I re-skin the surface (adding weight)!
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I sprayed rubbing alcohol on adams board, let it soak for 10 seconds and the paper came off super easy.
Nuts. I tested on some black Adams foam and the rubbing alcohol worked great. I guess it may depend on who was working on a particular day?? HA HAbe aware that there are some board lots that will not release well or at all with alcohol. flyboa found that the black paper adams boards he bought would peel off too easily without even wetting it down, whereas i just went through 12 black paper adams boards that would not release wilth alky. i found that naphtha (lighter fluid) did the trick perfectly - wet the paper, tease out a corner, start peeling! cheers!
i will add ... i like stacking up 4 wing sheets and cutting them out with a bandsaw - this works faster and easier than a razor blade or knife. the heat of the saw blade heats up the cut edges, and the stack of wing halves needs to be slightly popped apart. this makes de-papering a bit harder still, even with a good naphtha wetting, as the foam edges melt ever so slightly into the paper edges. naptha works fine, but there will be some paper sticking at random edges that require a very light 90* scrape of a razor blade to tease the paper up where it can be pulled off the foam.
Nuts. I tested on some black Adams foam and the rubbing alcohol worked great. I guess it may depend on who was working on a particular day?? HA HA