bracesport DLG

[rfd]

i have 19 sheets of FTWR foam board left, but it's not as water resistant as one would think.

 

[flyboa]

Good to know. I was thinking of trying it for our high humidity days.

 

[rfd]

it'll prolly come down to either packing tape or a few light mists of polyu or perhaps a brushed coat or two of deluxe eze dope.

lots more testing for me, but it's fun in its own way.

 

[flyboa]

Tape is probably best. Once you saturate the paper it starts to delaminate.

 

[rfd]

... not if it's misted on. even hairspray will add water resistance

 

[flyboa]

True. If only hairspray didn't smell so bad

 

[rfd]

True. If only hairspray didn't smell so bad

LOL!

 

[mwbyrd]

@flyboa - I couldn't get a micro Rx locally so I went with the FSiA6 which is pretty small at 40x21x7 and with the case removed and soldered pins it should work ok - I got a 180mAh 2cell and a micro UBEC to complete the electronics - I should be able to fit these up front - I will post the completed assembly!

Could you provide a link for this, "I got a 180mAh 2cell and a micro UBEC to complete the electronics". I'm trying to solve the riddle of how to power the same receiver in my DLG.

 

[Ranger_107]

@bracesport can u share the files? I was looking to build a plane just like this and then cam across the posts.

 

[bracesport]

@Ranger_107 - PM me with a picture or which one you need (I have a few)!

 

[bracesport]

@mwbyrd - here is my FSiA6 in the nose with a micro UBEC and a later version with a Frsky GrX8 (totally overkill) - these days I am using the Frsky RX6R which is pretty hi-tech but very small (almost the same size as the pins)!

 

[Wildthing]

Tape is probably best. Once you saturate the paper it starts to delaminate.

... not if it's misted on. even hairspray will add water resistance

Minwax or varathane work great, light coat brushed on and then wipe it off right away with paper towel, just do small sections at a time

 

[rfd]

why mess with a 2s and the added UBEC space/weight when a simpler/smaller 1s 250 (or lots more mah) is readily available for cheap?

 

[rfd]

Minwax or varathane work great, light coat brushed on and then wipe it off right away with paper towel, just do small sections at a time

been there, done that, it all works well enuf to slightly different degrees. i find rattle cans best if they have good nozzles and can spray out fine and not spit. typically i'll use minwax fast drying polyu gloss (gloss is better than semi or satin with regards to "water proofing").

 

[mwbyrd]

@mwbyrd - here is my FSiA6 in the nose with a micro UBEC and a later version with a Frsky GrX8 (totally overkill) - these days I am using the Frsky RX6R which is pretty hi-tech but very small (almost the same size as the pins)!

View attachment 173613 View attachment 173614 View attachment 173615 View attachment 173617 View attachment 173618

Thanks @bracesport. I finally found a picture online today and realized folks are adapting their connectors to make things work. I just have to decide to pull the trigger on some things today.

 

[mwbyrd]

I tossed the ailerons away (easy to make new ones) and started stripping the foam wings - the Adams board is not so friendly for paper removal so I tried both the dampened cloth and then some denatured alcohol on the old ailerons, but it did not really do the trick - in the end, I managed to peel the paper off making sure to lift and peel evenly - in some places I needed to cut through the paper to make strips about 4cm wide which peeled easier - phew!

@flyboa 's fuse/tail is about 70g all-up-weight so the to go under 200g (maybe 180g) my wing needs to be around 100g - so far the weight drop is almost half and I plan to thin the foil section to 5-6% so the weight will drop a bit further before I re-skin the surface (adding weight)!

View attachment 165773 View attachment 165774 View attachment 165775

I sprayed rubbing alcohol on adams board, let it soak for 10 seconds and the paper came off super easy.

 

[rfd]

I sprayed rubbing alcohol on adams board, let it soak for 10 seconds and the paper came off super easy.

be aware that there are some board lots that will not release well or at all with alcohol. flyboa found that the black paper adams boards he bought would peel off too easily without even wetting it down, whereas i just went through 12 black paper adams boards that would not release wilth alky. i found that naphtha (lighter fluid) did the trick perfectly - wet the paper, tease out a corner, start peeling! cheers!

i will add ... i like stacking up 4 wing sheets and cutting them out with a bandsaw - this works faster and easier than a razor blade or knife. the heat of the saw blade heats up the cut edges, and the stack of wing halves needs to be slightly popped apart. this makes de-papering a bit harder still, even with a good naphtha wetting, as the foam edges melt ever so slightly into the paper edges. naptha works fine, but there will be some paper sticking at random edges that require a very light 90* scrape of a razor blade to tease the paper up where it can be pulled off the foam.

 

[mwbyrd]

be aware that there are some board lots that will not release well or at all with alcohol. flyboa found that the black paper adams boards he bought would peel off too easily without even wetting it down, whereas i just went through 12 black paper adams boards that would not release wilth alky. i found that naphtha (lighter fluid) did the trick perfectly - wet the paper, tease out a corner, start peeling! cheers!

i will add ... i like stacking up 4 wing sheets and cutting them out with a bandsaw - this works faster and easier than a razor blade or knife. the heat of the saw blade heats up the cut edges, and the stack of wing halves needs to be slightly popped apart. this makes de-papering a bit harder still, even with a good naphtha wetting, as the foam edges melt ever so slightly into the paper edges. naptha works fine, but there will be some paper sticking at random edges that require a very light 90* scrape of a razor blade to tease the paper up where it can be pulled off the foam.

Nuts. I tested on some black Adams foam and the rubbing alcohol worked great. I guess it may depend on who was working on a particular day?? HA HA

 

[rfd]

Nuts. I tested on some black Adams foam and the rubbing alcohol worked great. I guess it may depend on who was working on a particular day?? HA HA

as i've mentioned, there are "lot runs" of manufactured foam boards, and clearly there will be "lot run" differences. at least now you know what to do if alky fails.

 

[bracesport]

making a start on some new wings this morning - well, when I say new, I mean repurposing some older wings - I am attempting to go paperless with a strip of CF on each side for stiffness root to tip - with the aileron added and still with their paper on I see 45g per wing - the paper will come off and the wings will be sanded thinner yet to remove some more weight - my plan today was to get the underside CF strip on and some kevlar tabs for the hinges (bit of an experiment) and a lick of epoxy onto the foam, then sand the top wing and ailerons before adding the top CF strip - wings are in the vacuum bag - you live and you learn!