Doculam covering PRO's and PITFALLS.....
- Thread starter Turbojoe
- Start date
Yeah, but even that didn't help enough. The Oracal masking material was just too strong compared to the paint / doculam bond.
I also probably shouldn't have gone with a gloss white paint as that creates a stronger paint film surface too.
It tore up the red pretty bad.
Things to try on the next doculam plane:
I also probably shouldn't have gone with a gloss white paint as that creates a stronger paint film surface too.
It tore up the red pretty bad.
Things to try on the next doculam plane:
- Let the base coat try for 2 or more days, no matter how impatient I get.
- Try using masking tape with a t-shirt press instead of the Oracal masking
- Use a flat top coat
Bricks
Master member
I will have to some digging around why is it with Monocoat or other coverings have not such a big issue with tape pulling up the paint. If I had some Doculam laying around I would try the primer ( adhesion promoter ) I have for painting new plastic parts bumpers and such for cars.. Been meaning to order some maybe this can be my excuse.
Hmm... I think I've got a spray can of that automotive plastic adhesion stuff around from a touch up I did last summer... I'll add that to the list of things to try once the Falcon is ready for covering!
TooJung2Die
Master member
I may have found the solution for masking paint on document laminating film. The guys who build stick and tissue rubber power airplanes use it for airbrush masking on delicate tissue covered models. Scotch 811 Removable Tape!
I did not know this tape existed. It is clear like regular Scotch tape but it has post-it-note adhesive so it lifts without damaging the surface. It's repositionable. All the stores that carry it on the shelf are closed now so I overpaid for a roll on Amazon. Gotta have it!
Jon
I did not know this tape existed. It is clear like regular Scotch tape but it has post-it-note adhesive so it lifts without damaging the surface. It's repositionable. All the stores that carry it on the shelf are closed now so I overpaid for a roll on Amazon. Gotta have it!
Jon
TooJung2Die
Master member
If you search for it you'll find 3M post-it note in tape roll form. I almost bought that too.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I cursed it too and threw yards of it in the trash after failed attempts. Then I switched to a heat gun for shrinking and stretching it over curves. That's when I started liking it.
[edit]
Is the Scythe a foam wing? Laminate film first became popular as a covering to protect slope soaring and combat wings. Should've been a piece of cake to laminate a foam wing. What happened?
[edit]
Is the Scythe a foam wing? Laminate film first became popular as a covering to protect slope soaring and combat wings. Should've been a piece of cake to laminate a foam wing. What happened?
Last edited:
Sendhendrix
Member
I’ll chime in here with my recent experience.
I covered a Goldberg Sophisticated Lady with it. I had read that painting was problematic, so before I covered with the laminating film, I covered the model with colored tissue paper using glue stick and heat. It didn’t look as awesome as I hoped it would. The tissue paper by itself was neat looking, but obviously not functional. The laminating film went on great. It really reminded me of using any other iron-on type covering except you really have to crank up the heat to shrink it. Also, the final result isn’t as drum-tight as Monokote, but still plenty strong and adds plenty of torsional stiffness to the open frame wing panels etc. So my main takeaway from that experience was: tissue under doculam looks like...actually...it looks like doped tissue where the dope blushed badly due to extreme humidity. Not something I’m proud of showing off but definitely worth the experiment, and once it’s flying it looks just fine.
I’ve heard of doping tissue on top of doculam for the vintage look, but I’m trying to avoid the vintage stank.
I’m getting close to finishing a Cloud Dancer 40, and I plan to also cover this one with laminating film, then trying to paint it. It will be glow powered, so I’m hoping with proper prep Rustoleum will stick and stay. The other idea I’m kicking around is trying vinyl wrap material on top of the doculam, large color trim pieces and leaving some of the open framework clear.
I covered a Goldberg Sophisticated Lady with it. I had read that painting was problematic, so before I covered with the laminating film, I covered the model with colored tissue paper using glue stick and heat. It didn’t look as awesome as I hoped it would. The tissue paper by itself was neat looking, but obviously not functional. The laminating film went on great. It really reminded me of using any other iron-on type covering except you really have to crank up the heat to shrink it. Also, the final result isn’t as drum-tight as Monokote, but still plenty strong and adds plenty of torsional stiffness to the open frame wing panels etc. So my main takeaway from that experience was: tissue under doculam looks like...actually...it looks like doped tissue where the dope blushed badly due to extreme humidity. Not something I’m proud of showing off but definitely worth the experiment, and once it’s flying it looks just fine.
I’ve heard of doping tissue on top of doculam for the vintage look, but I’m trying to avoid the vintage stank.
I’m getting close to finishing a Cloud Dancer 40, and I plan to also cover this one with laminating film, then trying to paint it. It will be glow powered, so I’m hoping with proper prep Rustoleum will stick and stay. The other idea I’m kicking around is trying vinyl wrap material on top of the doculam, large color trim pieces and leaving some of the open framework clear.
Turbojoe
Elite member
I still plan to try Doculam on balsa but I wanted to do a little work on my Multiplex FunJet that has been sitting half done for years. I used the turtle deck as a test piece and at about 225 degrees using a sock on the iron it went down smooth until it needed to conform to any curved area. The heat needed to make that happen causes the elapor foam beads to swell up and make what was a smooth surface all funky and bumpy. Oh well, it was worth a try. Now it's back to glass cloth and wbpu. I just ordered some of the removable tape in Jon's post above in the cheaper 1/2" width for $2.99 at Amazon. I'm sure it'll come in handy when painting the glassed surface and when I get around to a Doculam/balsa build.
I've got all this Doculam. I just need to decide what balsa build will get some of it.
Joe
I've got all this Doculam. I just need to decide what balsa build will get some of it.
Joe
TooJung2Die
Master member
Thin Doculam is good for delicate balsa frames usually covered with tissue because it doesn't have a strong shrink. I haven't used it on foam board frames but it might work. It works well to protect and strengthen foam when applied as a skin.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I think I'll add this for posterity. This is for everyone that hates Doculam because it doesn't shrink like model airplane film. You are right, but it stretches too. There is a pretty good compound curve on this carved nose block. Leave a generous amount of film overhang. Tack it down the center with an iron then heat it up with a heat gun and pull. It stretches like rubber over compound curves.
Jon
Jon
JustPlaneChris
Well-known member
I know this thread is a bit old, but I thought I'd add a couple of pictures of my Doculam-covered birds. The DLG was covered on top with 1.5 mil that was pre-painted on the inside with flourescent spray paint (light coat). The bottom is clear over flat-black spray paint.
The big Oly III is clear film over white painted frame, then I shot the colors from underneath. I then masked off that area and painted the bottom black, then covered it with clear.
I hadn't thought of using Doculam on DTFB, but now I have to try it!
The big Oly III is clear film over white painted frame, then I shot the colors from underneath. I then masked off that area and painted the bottom black, then covered it with clear.
I hadn't thought of using Doculam on DTFB, but now I have to try it!
TooJung2Die
Master member
Excuse me while I pick my jaw up off the floor. That’s gorgeous!
JustPlaneChris
Well-known member
Thank you! I really love how it looks in the sky with the sun shining through the covering.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I never painted the inside because I thought it would reduce the adhesion. So there's no adverse effects from the paint on the adhesive side? That's so good to know!Thank you! I really love how it looks in the sky with the sun shining through the covering.
Doculam is usually used on the outside of DTFB and other foams to protect and make it stronger. I think the guys flying foamy slope soarers discovered it first.
JustPlaneChris
Well-known member
There may have been a slight reduction in "stick" when painting the inside, but it worked. I've been flying that DLG for almost 5 years now, and the covering has nary a wrinkle!
If I were to do it again (paint on the inside) I might take a cue from the foamy slopers and mist the airframe with 3M 77 prior to applying the film. For sure that would increase the adhesion, and I can't really see any negatives.
I wonder how much strength Doculam would add back on a "paperless" foam build?
If I were to do it again (paint on the inside) I might take a cue from the foamy slopers and mist the airframe with 3M 77 prior to applying the film. For sure that would increase the adhesion, and I can't really see any negatives.
I wonder how much strength Doculam would add back on a "paperless" foam build?
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