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Eclipson Model A (free version)
- Thread starter 3pa
- Start date
Hi there, plane is finish, start glueling it and looking for the electronic part.
Can someone suggest me a good battery motor foldable propeller combo for a petg/pla printed plane....
Why they ask for a six channel receiver ? I have a 5 one from futaba.
May I also mount a 3 axsis stabilizator to help with flight ?
Can someone suggest me a good battery motor foldable propeller combo for a petg/pla printed plane....
Why they ask for a six channel receiver ? I have a 5 one from futaba.
May I also mount a 3 axsis stabilizator to help with flight ?
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Prop was balanced, recommended prop, motor and battery.
New to 3d Printing. Only printed a Benchy and first layer base adjustment prints. Printer Ender 3 V2.
I have downloaded the PLA Gcodes and have them ready to print. My question is, Are all the parameters set in the gcodes or do I need to change settings on my printer? On the build page in the bottom right are various parameters. I did change the printing temp to 220 (I'm trying to print #35) but the other settings are confusing. I went to look at speed before starting and it was at 500 for various settings. I looked at it while printing and it says 100 with no various settings. It looks like it is printing well except for where it changes directions there is a line.
Shouldn't the printer be going around without changing direction?
Thanks
I have downloaded the PLA Gcodes and have them ready to print. My question is, Are all the parameters set in the gcodes or do I need to change settings on my printer? On the build page in the bottom right are various parameters. I did change the printing temp to 220 (I'm trying to print #35) but the other settings are confusing. I went to look at speed before starting and it was at 500 for various settings. I looked at it while printing and it says 100 with no various settings. It looks like it is printing well except for where it changes directions there is a line.
Shouldn't the printer be going around without changing direction?
Thanks
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I have an Ender 3 Pro first gen. The gcodes should work "out-of-the-box"
Having said that, testing up-front will save you time in the long run.
For the Eclipson C (my first airplane), I created the C and A profiles with Cura and did my own slicing and compared to their gcodes. No major differences as far as I can tell.
I'm now using their g-codes for the Pitts S12.
I did have to create a different profile for TPU (rear tire) print. I did not print main tires in my Eclipson C
Having said that, testing up-front will save you time in the long run.
For the Eclipson C (my first airplane), I created the C and A profiles with Cura and did my own slicing and compared to their gcodes. No major differences as far as I can tell.
I'm now using their g-codes for the Pitts S12.
I did have to create a different profile for TPU (rear tire) print. I did not print main tires in my Eclipson C
I was going to try the Model-T but saw that I could print the Model-A for free so decided to try that first. I fly in a field so I don't need the LG.
It looks like it printed OK, Should I have left the printing temp at 200c that comes up when I turn on the printer?
If I have this straight, If I download the Gcode files from Eclipson, the parameters on the build page for PLA and PETG, like print speed, fan speed, the red notes, temps for pla vs petg will all be set by the gcodes?
Thanks for the help.
It looks like it printed OK, Should I have left the printing temp at 200c that comes up when I turn on the printer?
If I have this straight, If I download the Gcode files from Eclipson, the parameters on the build page for PLA and PETG, like print speed, fan speed, the red notes, temps for pla vs petg will all be set by the gcodes?
Thanks for the help.
Attachments
Yes. The gcodes should have all that. Are the pictures you attached from the gcodes or from a custom profile you created?
From the look of those pictures, i think you have combing enabled (specs of PLA on the outside are typically cased by combing). Make sure you turn that off.
It also looks like you have a bit stringing.
The PDF calls for profile A.
Create a profile A with Cura and turn combing off. Set the temperature to 205
I have these settings as well that could help solve the stringing.
cool_min_layer_time = 5
infill_sparse_density = 0
retraction_amount = 6
retraction_extra_prime_amount = 0.1
speed_print = 55
speed_travel = 150
speed_wall_0 = 50
speed_wall_x = 50
top_bottom_thickness = 0
wall_thickness = 0.4
Also, make sure your z-seam position is set to frontleft
z_seam_position = frontleft
I highly recommend this video:
He is really good at explaining the settings and has links to some useful tests to help you tune your printer.
I think he is using the exact same model you have
From the look of those pictures, i think you have combing enabled (specs of PLA on the outside are typically cased by combing). Make sure you turn that off.
It also looks like you have a bit stringing.
The PDF calls for profile A.
Create a profile A with Cura and turn combing off. Set the temperature to 205
I have these settings as well that could help solve the stringing.
cool_min_layer_time = 5
infill_sparse_density = 0
retraction_amount = 6
retraction_extra_prime_amount = 0.1
speed_print = 55
speed_travel = 150
speed_wall_0 = 50
speed_wall_x = 50
top_bottom_thickness = 0
wall_thickness = 0.4
Also, make sure your z-seam position is set to frontleft
z_seam_position = frontleft
I highly recommend this video:
I think he is using the exact same model you have
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Thanks so much for the detailed response. I have watched the fellow's videos above. Now that I have some print time under my belt, I should probably go back and watch them again.
The only parameter I set on the part above was the 220C. I have since printed with just the gcodes, picts below.
So, if I set up a profile in Cura with the settings you mentioned. Will I have to import the STL files and re slice them?
Is it possible to turn off combing and to position the z-seam to front left on the printer or do I have to do it on Cura?
The only parameter I set on the part above was the 220C. I have since printed with just the gcodes, picts below.
So, if I set up a profile in Cura with the settings you mentioned. Will I have to import the STL files and re slice them?
Is it possible to turn off combing and to position the z-seam to front left on the printer or do I have to do it on Cura?
Attachments
I have all of my PLA sections printed and am trying to get started with the PETG sections. I am using the Eclipson Gcodes on my Ender3 V2 and can't get it to stick to the plate. I emailed the vendor of the PLA and this is their reply- "increase the nozzle temp to 250C which is the optimal temp using our PETG and to try 80C bed temp, 20mm/s first layer speed and not to open the cooling fan at first few layers."
I know I can adjust the nozzle and bed temp at the printer but what do I do about first layer speed and cooling? Do I need to adjust it in the Gcode somehow or do I need to take the STL file and adjust it in Cura?
I know I can adjust the nozzle and bed temp at the printer but what do I do about first layer speed and cooling? Do I need to adjust it in the Gcode somehow or do I need to take the STL file and adjust it in Cura?
What I did was book out 10 min of not being distracted and adjust on the printer whilst watching and tweaking. Both speed and fan can be tuned on the printer whilst printing. Drop speed to 30-40 and fan to zero.speed can go even lower the value is essentially a % of the sliced speed. Just sit and ensure the first 2 layers go down ok. Then you can push both the fan and speed back up or the speed up to close to why it was. It will just take longer to print
I spoke too soon on getting the PETG to print. I can't get the wing servo bracket to complete printing. As you can see the base comes out OK, but when it starts to print the brackets, it won't build up properly; I end up with a nest of filament. Also, Is there a way to just print one at a time, so I don't keep wasting filament? Thanks.
Edit note: I got the original STL file and put in Cura. It was already set for just one piece. I adjusted the bed temp to 80 and nozzle temp to 140 and sliced it. While it was printing, I reduced the nozzle to 230 and bed to 70. It seemed to work. Also, I sprayed my bed with hairspray and i am not having problems with it holding to the bed. Pict added of latest print. It isn't the best and I'll take any advice. Thanks.
Edit note: I got the original STL file and put in Cura. It was already set for just one piece. I adjusted the bed temp to 80 and nozzle temp to 140 and sliced it. While it was printing, I reduced the nozzle to 230 and bed to 70. It seemed to work. Also, I sprayed my bed with hairspray and i am not having problems with it holding to the bed. Pict added of latest print. It isn't the best and I'll take any advice. Thanks.
Attachments
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Good day,
I printed the fuselage and there is no way I can get a 2mm diameter rod in the tubes. The print went great, I used 1 wall with a .4mm nozzle as instructed. The tubes looks fine, but they are basically 2mm themselves.
I'm going to use what ever diameter fits, but I'd like to know what I did wrong.
Thoughts?
Thank you
I printed the fuselage and there is no way I can get a 2mm diameter rod in the tubes. The print went great, I used 1 wall with a .4mm nozzle as instructed. The tubes looks fine, but they are basically 2mm themselves.
I'm going to use what ever diameter fits, but I'd like to know what I did wrong.
Thoughts?
Thank you
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Greetings,
So While I was assembling this plane I noticed the rods didn't slide in easily also, however what I did was I'd push it in until it had a bit of resistance then back it up a few mm and then push it through in a quick, swift, forceful manner. I think my problem was that the plastic when printed was slightly stringy causing the rod to have some blockage as it was inserted. Maybe someone else has a better idea, but this is what worked for me. Best of luck!
So While I was assembling this plane I noticed the rods didn't slide in easily also, however what I did was I'd push it in until it had a bit of resistance then back it up a few mm and then push it through in a quick, swift, forceful manner. I think my problem was that the plastic when printed was slightly stringy causing the rod to have some blockage as it was inserted. Maybe someone else has a better idea, but this is what worked for me. Best of luck!