Mr Man
Mr SPEED!
That’s a tough one for me to help with, since mine’s so old it does that no matter what… 😂. Telnar or maybe @Spitfire76 might be able to help better then I…
Eclipson Model A (free version)
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Vogel
New member
Yes!!! I bought a new high speed printer with modern architecture and now I am really lost 👀 Ancient printers just do their job, but my makes me wonder, what is wrong 🤔 Actually the situation looks like underextrusion or something wrong with the temperature or pressure advance or … I have made calibration and a lot of different attempts to adjust the system, and I feel that the problem is my zero experience. After two or three weeks of experimentation I came here hoping to find an answer 🙏
What are your speed and fan settings? There are a ton of variables when using a slicer to regenerate the gcode for the printer.
For my "best results", I found using the stock GCODE files but adjusting the temperatures in the files the easiest. The stock temperatures underextruded on my printer/filament, so I bumped ther temperature up in 5 degree increments till it came out right.
Vogel
New member
Тhe temperature is 230 for the first layer and then 220 degrees. Fan speed 100%. Flow rate 1.0, pressure advance 0.06, adaptive PA is on, max volumetric speed 12 mm3/s.
Is that in the slicer, or in the gcode files? The temp seems low.
telnar1236
Elite member
Are you using normal PLA, LW-PLA, or HT-PLA? I'm not really familiar with the Jayo brand. Your temperature settings seem a bit low for LW and a bit high for conventional PLA, but if it's some kind of HT-PLA, that could be about right. If it's LW-PLA, having the temp too low can lead to under-extrusion and if it's normal PLA, having the temp too high can lead to trouble with steep overhangs like what you're dealing with. If it's conventional PLA, I'd recommend somewhere in the 195-210 range with most printers. If it's LW-PLA, somewhere north of 235 is probably ideal, and probably more in the 240-250 range. If it's LW-PLA also check the extrusion multiplier. Different LW-PLAs foam up by different amounts, so you need to tune in each brand a bit differently.
Another possibility is that you're printing too fast. LW-PLA needs time to foam, and even conventional PLA needs enough time for each layer to cool. Eclipson designs are probably the best designed of any of the ones out there, but there are limitations to thin wall printing that it just isn't possible to get around. If you're slicing the parts yourself, I'd recommend checking to make sure you're using Eclipson's recommended settings. I think there is a table of them on their website for each plane.
If I saw this issue in one of my own designs, I'd blame the design itself, but given that this is from Eclipson and that I don't see this in pictures of other prints of the plane, it's probably either a tuning or filament issue. It also looks like the overhang isn't too awful and should be pretty manageable for most printers still.
telnar1236
Elite member
Once you get everything working, the new Klipper based printers are amazing. I recently upgraded my Sovol to the version with Klipper, and it's incredible how much better it is now. I can print my designs somewhere around 2-3x faster and with other parts with thicker, stiffer walls, I can go even quicker still. It's definitely a learning curve going from Marlin and Cura to Klipper and Orca, but it's worth it. I'm debating upgrading my other two printers as well based on how well it's working.
Vogel
New member
Thank you very much!!! The main problem is me 🫣 Misinterpretation of the temperature tower readings led to all the other problems. Sorry!!! JAYO recommended 200-210 degrees for regular PLA, so my 220 was a bit too high. I only found out about it after asking the question here, sorry 😔Now I have started all the procedures to set up the printer correctly.
I will try again after recalibration.
Thanks a lot once again 👍
I will try again after recalibration.
Thanks a lot once again 👍
Vogel
New member
Hello everyone!
After some work and some research, now I have some answers, that I’d like to share with you.
All attempts to recalibrate gave me the same result that I already had before, I mean - nothing. We have tested PLA (common, not LW) and PETG on Flashforge Adventurer 5M here in München and on Creality Ender 3 (modified with a direct extruder) in Prague - Gott sei Dank, I have a friend, that is the same crazy as me 🤣
Nothing. But step by step we were analysing the problem, also in Orca and Prusa slicers. The main aim was not only to print, but to understand, what’s going on. So practical testing gave us the same results for both slicers and both printers: the holes, that I have already described.
Then in slicers we have found, that in problem zones the distance between the lines is more than it should be. So we have decided to try to decrease a layer thickness from 0,2 to 0,1 mm and it works! I cut a top of the detail to test printing only problem zone and the result is awesome.
I have to pay time for it, but the quality is really perfect 👌
Thank you!
PS Now I have to solve the next problem, those connectors on the inner surface of the details, that are needed to connect different pieces into the whole detail. Inner wall is hanging in the air with no support… 🤔
After some work and some research, now I have some answers, that I’d like to share with you.
All attempts to recalibrate gave me the same result that I already had before, I mean - nothing. We have tested PLA (common, not LW) and PETG on Flashforge Adventurer 5M here in München and on Creality Ender 3 (modified with a direct extruder) in Prague - Gott sei Dank, I have a friend, that is the same crazy as me 🤣
Nothing. But step by step we were analysing the problem, also in Orca and Prusa slicers. The main aim was not only to print, but to understand, what’s going on. So practical testing gave us the same results for both slicers and both printers: the holes, that I have already described.
Then in slicers we have found, that in problem zones the distance between the lines is more than it should be. So we have decided to try to decrease a layer thickness from 0,2 to 0,1 mm and it works! I cut a top of the detail to test printing only problem zone and the result is awesome.
I have to pay time for it, but the quality is really perfect 👌
Thank you!
PS Now I have to solve the next problem, those connectors on the inner surface of the details, that are needed to connect different pieces into the whole detail. Inner wall is hanging in the air with no support… 🤔
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telnar1236
Elite member
Have you tried a different filament? Or possibly changing your fan speed? It looks like there's also some warping around the ribs which normally isn't present in this design.
I haven't tried slicing Eclipson designs in Orca before, but for 3D lab print planes and my own designs, the even-odd slicer mode seems to help a lot.
Vogel
New member
Friends, please accept my apologies. My oversight caused a huge waste of my time and distracted yours as well. Note 9!!! I completely missed it. The top shell! It never occurred to me that the wing’s leading edge could be treated as a top shell and end up being printed with two layers!!! I feel pretty stupid about it.
But at least there are two positive lessons:
But at least there are two positive lessons:
- Always stay attentive, no matter how tired I am after work.
- This part can still be printed in a single layer if I reduce the layer height.
Mr Man
Mr SPEED!
No worries! I’m glad you got it figured out!
telnar1236
Elite member
No reason to apologize - this whole hobby is a learning experience. Glad you got it figured out.
telnar1236
Elite member
Best bet is to put some glue stick on your print bed. In general PEI is pretty good, but for 3D printed airplane parts, you frequently want better bed adhesion than PEI alone will give you. You might also consider adding a brim if you still have trouble.
telnar1236
Elite member
As a side note, PETG is somewhat heavier than PLA which is already heavy for an RC plane, so keep that in mind when choosing your filament. LW-PLA or ABS are the best for RC planes and Eclipson planes are mostly designed for LW-PLA.
Vogel
New member
At the moment I learn how to use my 3D printer. I saw a lot of videos how to choose a right temperature and so on. For these experiments I prefer to use inexpensive PETG or PLA, that is 3-4 times cheaper than LW-PLA.
And my next problem is not adhesion. The connection parts are printed really strange way 🤔
Is it so as it should be or not? I’m afraid not… 🤔
And my next problem is not adhesion. The connection parts are printed really strange way 🤔
Is it so as it should be or not? I’m afraid not… 🤔
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telnar1236
Elite member
This seems to be something inherent to the design. I get the same thing printing it in normal PLA although to a much lesser extent. Unless the part doesn't properly connect up with the next section of the wing or seem weaker than it should, I wouldn't worry it.
These settings for Orca Slicer seem to work perfectly for printing the wing in normal PLA. I took my profile for printing my own designs and edited the settings exactly as Eclipson recommended on their website (including the 220 degree temperature even with PLA).
telnar1236
Elite member
Continuing the settings:
Tuning the settings will vary slightly by printer, so use common sense with this. For example, my printer is fairly quick so most people will want to turn down the speed and acceleration a bit, and for printers without input shaping, the jerk setting should not be zero.
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