Eclipson Model A (free version)

[Vogel]

Hi all,
First of all, I want to say a huge thank you for all your help, and a special thanks for sharing the list of settings — that was really valuable.
I’ve been experimenting a lot, but no matter what I try, the print still ends up looking like in the photo. Maybe I’m just expecting too much? For reference: material is regular PLA.
Maybe I’m overlooking something simple? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks 🙏

 

[telnar1236]

Hi all,
First of all, I want to say a huge thank you for all your help, and a special thanks for sharing the list of settings — that was really valuable.
I’ve been experimenting a lot, but no matter what I try, the print still ends up looking like in the photo. Maybe I’m just expecting too much? For reference: material is regular PLA.
Maybe I’m overlooking something simple? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks 🙏

What temperature is the room you're printing in? 3D printers seem to be happiest between 75 F and 80 F for PLA in my experience, so you may need to turn down the fan speed if it's cooler to get good layer adhesion. If your printer gets a draft from an air conditioner, that can also cause print failures. You might also want to consider turning up the extrusion multiplier/flow some since under-extrusion can cause bridging issues like what you're seeing. I know you mentioned tuning your printer for flow, but it's possible that tune isn't quite right for 3D printed planes.

That said, if the print seems fine externally and all the functional bits are there, I wouldn't worry too much about what it looks like on the inside so long as it seems strong enough. I agree that shouldn't look like that, but it might not affect the plane all that much.

 

[Vogel]

Hello! Thanks for your reply ✌️
Yesterday I’ve tried the settings listed above. Just the table temperature I prefer to keep on 65 C. The temperature in my room is 24 C.
Flow rate is 1.0 and why not to try 1.1? 🤔 Fan speed is maximum 80%, I’ve already tried to limit a printing speed to 10 mm/s, but it doesn’t work. Sometimes I think that the printer doesn’t care about my or Orca’s settings because of some own opinion about the situation 😵‍💫

 

[telnar1236]

Hello! Thanks for your reply ✌️
Yesterday I’ve tried the settings listed above. Just the table temperature I prefer to keep on 65 C. The temperature in my room is 24 C.
Flow rate is 1.0 and why not to try 1.1? 🤔 Fan speed is maximum 80%, I’ve already tried to limit a printing speed to 10 mm/s, but it doesn’t work. Sometimes I think that the printer doesn’t care about my or Orca’s settings because of some own opinion about the situation 😵‍💫

Nothing unreasonable there

Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about the stringing. It's inside the print and doesn't look like it should affect its strength, so I'd probably just ignore it unless it seems to pose a problem to the parts function.

As a whole 3D printed planes need to be planes first and prints second, so they sometimes don't print as easily as we might wish, but if they fly, then that's the important thing.

 

[Vogel]

Thank you for your support! Having no experience with my first printer, I was (and am) always unsure that I do everything right.

 

[Laurent]

Hello everybody,
I interupted the printing of wing 2L because the profile was not continue. there are 2 gaps.
Can anybody tell me what could go wrong.
Thnxx

 

[telnar1236]

Hello everybody,
I interupted the printing of wing 2L because the profile was not continue. there are 2 gaps.
Can anybody tell me what could go wrong.
Thnxx

The gaps look a bit big so you may be having a bit of under extrusion going on, but for the most part this is an intended feature of the way the geometry is modeled. In order to extrude it as a single perimeter, the solid has cuts made in it so the extruder can trace all the features in one go, but that does leave what amounts to cracks in the bottom of the wing. With LW-PLA these should fuse together pretty completely by the time the print is done but with normal PLA you sometimes need add a bead of glue along the seem to keep it from popping open

 

[Laurent]

Okey, thank you telnar1236, when I watch build videos from the Model A, I do not see these gaps in their parts, thats why I wonder I have them. I'm new in 3d printing, so I go to check my settings. The parts on the pictures are sliced with Bambustudio and printed with 3DLabprint Polylight.

 

[telnar1236]

Okey, thank you telnar1236, when I watch build videos from the Model A, I do not see these gaps in their parts, thats why I wonder I have them. I'm new in 3d printing, so I go to check my settings. The parts on the pictures are sliced with Bambustudio and printed with 3DLabprint Polylight.

Like I said, you do seem to have some issues with under extrusion. The assembly video shows what the seams should look like a bit better when printed. When the print is done the structure of the wing should help hold them closed so you won't be able to bend the wing to get them to pop open as much as you can in your photo. I've also noticed that Orca based slicers tend to leave larger seams than Cura, so you may be able to use Cura as a last resort.

What nozzle temperature and extrusion rate are you using for your print?

 

[Laurent]

I printed the whole part today to see the result, I also use the profiles I found on the eclipson page: Category A-LW.3mf (I made the mistake to use Vase-mode the first trials) The result is fine. flow rate 0.5 and nozzle 245.
Just a little gap at the bottom.
Weight of the part 13 Gr.
It does not feel very solid, I will have to manage my landings.
Thank you for tha aid.