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Eclipson Model A (free version)

#63
I've got mine all printed but every time I try to attach my servo to the wing servo holder, it splits the plastic at the hole. I've tried drilling it out and that broke it too. I'm using the mounting screws that came with the servos. Any suggestions? I got the rudder and elevator servos attached no problem with the same screws. My next solution if I can't figure it out is to just glue the servo to the cover. Not the worst option, but I'd rather screw it on for easy maintenance.
 
#64
We have decided in collaboration with Flite Test to make a small present to the community. Here you can download the free version of our model A.
https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/modela


Notes:
-The free version does not include landing gear parts.
-If you decide to get the free version we can not give you direct support. In case of doubt or problem, please use this forum.
que cargador utilizo para cargar las barerias del modelo A?
 
#66
I wasn’t massively keen on using tape so I’ve made some small hinge pieces that can be glued to the moving surfaces. It leaves about a 2.5mm gap but am going to test in flight and see how it goes. They print on the "C" settings and take a bit of the spare pushrod. STL and GCode attached.

. 48359C61-76AF-4F36-A349-265CC9028CC2.jpeg 4B0E4D83-081F-4F2A-BA54-5892906098EC.jpeg
 

Attachments

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jpot1

Elite member
#67
I wasn’t massively keen on using tape so I’ve made some small hinge pieces that can be glued to the moving surfaces. It leaves about a 2.5mm gap but am going to test in flight and see how it goes. They print on the "C" settings and take a bit of the spare pushrod. STL and GCode attached.
@RalphyM let us know how this works for you. I hate the tape. Mine is peeling a bit from the cold in my basement while I wait for the snow to melt.
 
#69
Hi there,
I think I've done something wrong on the print and was wondering if I'm missing something obvious. I printed the fuselage parts and went to test fit them. As you can see in the image below, the tabs on the left line up fine at the top of the right side part. but the lower ones have nowhere to go as it is a solid piece at the bottom on the right. This issue is repeated on all but the back end of the fuselage. I'm printing on the Ender 3 pro and using the slicer that came with it (it's based on cura).

Did I make a mistake somewhere? Or am I supposed to use a hot knife to open up where those tabs should go?

Thanks for your help
Seán View attachment 192087
You need to set Bottom Layers to 0.
 
#70
I see that its recommended to use ABS or PETG for the motor holder as they are less likely to melt with when the motor gets hot. Anyone used just PLA or is that a bit risky ?
 

Sero

Elite member
#71
I see that its recommended to use ABS or PETG for the motor holder as they are less likely to melt with when the motor gets hot. Anyone used just PLA or is that a bit risky ?
I've melted some PLA firewalls but if you under prop your motor it should be fine. Keeping a spinner off will help cool the motor.
 
#75
I did exactly the same to import the A profile (my printer is now a pseudo Ender3). My wing tips also have slight gaps. I'm printing in PETG for the durability (same weight as PLA but more resistant to knocks). It's my first time printing with PETG and I just needed to up the temps to 240/70. Its more gloopy than PLA so get more stringing
 
#76
This is my first ever RC plane build (I've flown helis before). Please could someone validate my shopping list before I buy the RC gear to make sure it will all work together. I've already got a DX6i transmitter and receiver. I'm printing in PETG which will be the same weight as PLA.
Cheers
  1. Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack (2off)
  2. Aerostar 30A Electronic Speed Controller with 2A BEC (2~4S)
  3. Turnigy™ TG9e Eco Micro Servo 1.5kg / 0.10sec / 10.1g (4off)
  4. Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner
  5. 8x6 prop (would I be better off with a folding prop?)
 
#77
This is my first ever RC plane build (I've flown helis before). Please could someone validate my shopping list before I buy the RC gear to make sure it will all work together. I've already got a DX6i transmitter and receiver. I'm printing in PETG which will be the same weight as PLA.
Cheers
  1. Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack (2off)
  2. Aerostar 30A Electronic Speed Controller with 2A BEC (2~4S)
  3. Turnigy™ TG9e Eco Micro Servo 1.5kg / 0.10sec / 10.1g (4off)
  4. Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner
  5. 8x6 prop (would I be better off with a folding prop?)
That looks like it'll work perfect!
 

Sero

Elite member
#78
This is my first ever RC plane build (I've flown helis before). Please could someone validate my shopping list before I buy the RC gear to make sure it will all work together. I've already got a DX6i transmitter and receiver. I'm printing in PETG which will be the same weight as PLA.
Cheers
  1. Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack (2off)
  2. Aerostar 30A Electronic Speed Controller with 2A BEC (2~4S)
  3. Turnigy™ TG9e Eco Micro Servo 1.5kg / 0.10sec / 10.1g (4off)
  4. Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner
  5. 8x6 prop (would I be better off with a folding prop?)
I'd look for an ESC with at least a 3A BEC.
Also looking at the motor specs and reviews I would try at least a 9" prop. Folding should work too.
 
#79
I'd look for an ESC with at least a 3A BEC.
Also looking at the motor specs and reviews I would try at least a 9" prop. Folding should work too.
Thanks for the feeback - would this be a better bet?

Aerostar 50A Electronic Speed Controller with 5A BEC (2~6S)

Also, would that be a 9x6 prop? I can get some 8x6 and 9x6
 

Sero

Elite member
#80
Thanks for the feeback - would this be a better bet?

Aerostar 50A Electronic Speed Controller with 5A BEC (2~6S)

Also, would that be a 9x6 prop? I can get some 8x6 and 9x6
A 9x6 would work but I would look for a 9x4.5. It's always good to have extra props so I would get them both.

No need for a 50 amp ESC, weight will add up. Find a 30 amp with a 3+amp BEC such as this.