Eclipson Model A (free version)

[TheStapler]

This is my first ever RC plane build (I've flown helis before). Please could someone validate my shopping list before I buy the RC gear to make sure it will all work together. I've already got a DX6i transmitter and receiver. I'm printing in PETG which will be the same weight as PLA.
Cheers

1. Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack (2off)
2. Aerostar 30A Electronic Speed Controller with 2A BEC (2~4S)
3. Turnigy™ TG9e Eco Micro Servo 1.5kg / 0.10sec / 10.1g (4off)
4. Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner
5. 8x6 prop (would I be better off with a folding prop?)

I didn't notice that motor when i place my order with hobbyking, im getting Turnigy PROPDRIVE v2 2826 1350KV Brushless Outrunner Motor with a 8x6 prop, running 1500mah 3s

 

[xentronic]

A 9x6 would work but I would look for a 9x4.5. It's always good to have extra props so I would get them both.

No need for a 50 amp ESC, weight will add up. Find a 30 amp with a 3+amp BEC such as this.

Thanks - I'll go for that ESC - according to the spec it has a 4amp BEC . Should I get the programming card as well (only available from China so will take ages to get here!)

 

[xentronic]

For anyone printing in PETG, I've found on my printer (similar to Ender3) that any part that says to print 2 top layers ( marked as <9> on the tech drawing) actually needs 4 top layers otherwise you don't get a complete infill and hence won't glue together well. Bottom layers come out ok printed as a 2.

 

[xentronic]

I didn't notice that motor when i place my order with hobbyking, im getting Turnigy PROPDRIVE v2 2826 1350KV Brushless Outrunner Motor with a 8x6 prop, running 1500mah 3s

I just picked the Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner because it was the nearest thing to a 2212 and available on HobbyKing. Does anyone know if the PROPDRIVE v2 2826 1350KV would be a better pick (as they are also available from UK warehouse where I'm located)

 

[Spitfire76]

For anyone printing in PETG, I've found on my printer (similar to Ender3) that any part that says to print 2 top layers ( marked as <9> on the tech drawing) actually needs 4 top layers otherwise you don't get a complete infill and hence won't glue together well. Bottom layers come out ok printed as a 2.

I am trying to print the motor holder with PETG and I just can't get it to stick to the the heated glass bed. I changed the temps to 240/70 but it just does not stick. Are you using any glue or hairspray to make it stick ?. I have never had to use it for PLA

 

[xentronic]

I am trying to print the motor holder with PETG and I just can't get it to stick to the the heated glass bed. I changed the temps to 240/70 but it just does not stick. Are you using any glue or hairspray to make it stick ?. I have never had to use it for PLA

Have you played around with your Z offset (height of the nozzle off the bed). I read you needed to raise that above that normally used for PLA. I tried that and found my parts weren't sticking. I went back to the PLA setting and still had some issues. I eventually went closer to the bed (only by 0.03mm) than I would use for PLA and found that fixed the problem for me.

I'm printing on a plastic flexible bed that I've had a kitchen scourer on to very slightly roughen the surface.

Have you got any masking tape handy, that would be worth a try on your glass bed.

Have you got the hot end cooling fan switched off - I leave it off for the first 4 layers and then only have it on 30% for the rest of the print to give the best combo of layer bonding and reduced stringing.

 

[Sero]

I just picked the Turnigy 2213 20turn 1050kv 19A Outrunner because it was the nearest thing to a 2212 and available on HobbyKing. Does anyone know if the PROPDRIVE v2 2826 1350KV would be a better pick (as they are also available from UK warehouse where I'm located)

They both will work and are comparable. Keep in mind the Turnigy 2213 is a measurement of the stator, while the Propdrive is the can size.

 

[Sero]

380 grams with the control surfaces, without the firewall.

 

[Spitfire76]

Have you played around with your Z offset (height of the nozzle off the bed). I read you needed to raise that above that normally used for PLA. I tried that and found my parts weren't sticking. I went back to the PLA setting and still had some issues. I eventually went closer to the bed (only by 0.03mm) than I would use for PLA and found that fixed the problem for me.

I'm printing on a plastic flexible bed that I've had a kitchen scourer on to very slightly roughen the surface.

Have you got any masking tape handy, that would be worth a try on your glass bed.

Have you got the hot end cooling fan switched off - I leave it off for the first 4 layers and then only have it on 30% for the rest of the print to give the best combo of layer bonding and reduced stringing.

Thanks!. I tried 3M's blue masking tape as you suggested and it worked wonders so now have a motor holder in PETG.

 

[xentronic]

Is anybody else seeing that the servo horn on Elev2R appears to be cut off? View attachment 192100

I think its supposed to be like that - I assume it glues to the full servo horn on Elev1L for extra strength in the elevator

 

[xentronic]

I have all the main parts printed - using PLA and the motor mount will we PETG. My question is what is meant be Catergory C. Does this mean that the parts can be printed in any material?

My understanding is that the A and C are Cura profiles (which obviously define all the print parameters eg % infill, wall thickness). I'll send you them - if I remember correctly they were on Thingiverse. There's also a B profile but that isn't used in this model.

If you get an error you may need to set up a new printer as an Ender3 and load them into there. There are a couple of other threads about loading them into your current version of Cura. Any problems, post back and I can provide a bit more detail.

 

[Spitfire76]

My understanding is that the A and C are Cura profiles (which obviously define all the print parameters eg % infill, wall thickness). I'll send you them - if I remember correctly they were on Thingiverse. There's also a B profile but that isn't used in this model.

If you get an error you may need to set up a new printer as an Ender3 and load them into there. There are a couple of other threads about loading them into your current version of Cura. Any problems, post back and I can provide a bit more detail.

I noticed a number of differences in the settings between the C profile that's on Thingiverse and the table that is on the drawing. For example on the profile from Thingiverse the bottom and top layers are 6 and 4 whereas they are reversed on the drawing.

 

[xentronic]

I noticed a number of differences in the settings between the C profile that's on Thingiverse and the table that is on the drawing. For example on the profile from Thingiverse the bottom and top layers are 6 and 4 whereas they are reversed on the drawing.

I went with the Cura C profile and not the drawing since I thought for the parts identified it made sense to have the bottom thicker (the way the parts are printed) eg the wing servo holders would be very delicate if 4 not 6.

 

[Spitfire76]

I went with the Cura C profile and not the drawing since I thought for the parts identified it made sense to have the bottom thicker (the way the parts are printed) eg the wing servo holders would be very delicate if 4 not 6.

I also used the C profile from thingiverse. In addition to top and bottom layers the retraction is set to 5mm in the profile and 3 on the drawing. I also changed the bed temp from 50 to 60 as per the drawing but mainly since that's what I've always used for PLA as it sticks to the bed without tape or hairspray.

Also just to add I ran one of their provided g-code files through a g-code viewer and saw it was using 6 bottom layers and 4 top layers so maybe they just got them switched around on the drawing.

 

[Spitfire76]

Since there was some slight differences between the Cura profiles and the drawing I wanted to check what settings were used in the provided gcode files. There are some comments at the end of the Gcode files that, I believe, indicate the settings that are difference from the "standard" profile. I see that the retraction settings seem fairly different but maybe the wing is not using a lot of retraction. I'll try to perform the same for the "C" profile.

	From Wing3L.gcode (PLA)	Profile A from Thingiverse
retraction_combing	off	all
brim_width	6	4
retraction_amount	6	1
retraction_combing_max_distance	2	30
retraction_extra_prime_amount	0.1	0
retraction_speed	25	50
speed_travel	150	130
z_seam_corner	z_seam_corner_none	smart_hiding
z_seam_position	frontleft	back
z_seam_type	back	?

 

[The Hangar]

Does this look like what everyone else is getting for motor thrust angle? It seems a little excessive for a plane this size, but what do I know lol...

 

[TheStapler]

Does this look like what everyone else is getting for motor thrust angle? It seems a little excessive for a plane this size, but what do I know lol...
View attachment 193705

I'll let you know soon as im ready to mount my motor

 

[Spitfire76]

Does this look like what everyone else is getting for motor thrust angle? It seems a little excessive for a plane this size, but what do I know lol...
View attachment 193705

That does look rather excessive. How is the motor holder installed?. There is a "L" on the back of the motor holder which I assumes means left and this side also faces to the rear of the fuselage.

 

[The Hangar]

That does look rather excessive. How is the motor holder installed?. There is a "L" on the back of the motor holder which I assumes means left and this side also faces to the rear of the fuselage.

View attachment 193708

Good catch - that was the problem! I just rotated it and now it looks perfect - thanks.

 

[Spitfire76]

I know it’s hidden but there’s a lot of gaps in the top layers when printing the motor holder. The white one is PLA and the orange PETG. Using profile C. Anyone else having these results ?