Elevon Mixing on FT22 Using DX6

[RCScottsdale]

Having major trouble. I can’t get the elevons mixed on my Ft22 with my DX6. Additionally, the servos do move a bit but the throws are always different with similar movements of the stick, and they seem to creep after input is stopped. The make a lot of noise, and they heat up quite a bit. Finally, it sure seems that they are under a lot of pushrod tension using the build method Josh Bixler used even though it works for him...just not for me. I could sure use some help.

 

[CrashRecovery]

So first it sounds like something is bound up. They should move more freely. Can you post pictures of the control surfaces? Also what DX6 are you using? The 6I or the newer DX6?

 

[Bricks]

Did you loosen up the control surfaces by bending them back and forth as far they will go? If they do not move easily they are stressing your servos causing them to heat up.

 

[Yawnsky24]

Another trick that I have used on binding control surfaces is to take your hot glue gun and let it heat up. Without adding any glue run the hot tip of the glue gun down the hinge. If there is any excess glue, use a piece of scrap to scrape it off. You don't need to use any pressure on the glue gun tip while going down the seam, just let the heat soften the existing glue.

Good luck.

 

[RCScottsdale]

Did you loosen up the control surfaces by bending them back and forth as far they will go? If they do not move easily they are stressing your servos causing them to heat up.

The surfaces move freely until attaching them to the servos. It seems like the service are unable to adequately move them. I don’t get it. Could I have purchased poor quality servos?

 

[RCScottsdale]

Another trick that I have used on binding control surfaces is to take your hot glue gun and let it heat up. Without adding any glue run the hot tip of the glue gun down the hinge. If there is any excess glue, use a piece of scrap to scrape it off. You don't need to use any pressure on the glue gun tip while going down the seam, just let the heat soften the existing glue.

Good luck.

The problem appears to be with the strength of the servos. The surfaces move freely.

 

[CrashRecovery]

Try loosening the screw that holds the servo arm on. I've done it in the past and it has worked, don't know why, don't care either. The plane flew.

 

[Hai-Lee]

You should start out with the pushrod on the servo arm output hole which is closest to the screw holding the servo arm in place, (this provides maximum torque or force into the pushrod. Adjust the linkage mounting on the control horn to give desired deflection. Only if necessary shift the pushrod mounting on the servo arm but only to get the desired deflection range. DO NOT TRY TO EXCEED RECOMMENDED MAXIMUM DEFLECTIONS.

If the servo is still stalling you can reduce the hinge resistance by actually cutting away some of the hinge paper and glue along the hinge line, (As they do on some commercial models to reduce hinge resistance. Normally leave an inch and then remove an inch and then leave and inch and then remove an inch and so on until you get near the hinge line end where you should leave at least an inch of hinge uncut or removed. This will significantly reduce hinge pivot resistance.

Just for your info a free hinge line or control surface should almost be able to flop from touching the top of the wing to the bottom of the wing just by rotating the wing. If it does not move under gravity then the hinge line is NOT free!

Final thing to consider is to ensure that you have not accidentally glued the servo output and that you have not also accidentally painted the same output.

Have fun!

 

[RCScottsdale]

You should start out with the pushrod on the servo arm output hole which is closest to the screw holding the servo arm in place, (this provides maximum torque or force into the pushrod. Adjust the linkage mounting on the control horn to give desired deflection. Only if necessary shift the pushrod mounting on the servo arm but only to get the desired deflection range. DO NOT TRY TO EXCEED RECOMMENDED MAXIMUM DEFLECTIONS.

If the servo is still stalling you can reduce the hinge resistance by actually cutting away some of the hinge paper and glue along the hinge line, (As they do on some commercial models to reduce hinge resistance. Normally leave an inch and then remove an inch and then leave and inch and then remove an inch and so on until you get near the hinge line end where you should leave at least an inch of hinge uncut or removed. This will significantly reduce hinge pivot resistance.

Just for your info a free hinge line or control surface should almost be able to flop from touching the top of the wing to the bottom of the wing just by rotating the wing. If it does not move under gravity then the hinge line is NOT free!

Final thing to consider is to ensure that you have not accidentally glued the servo output and that you have not also accidentally painted the same output.

Have fun!

Great input! I’ll try those things!