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Ender 3 V2 for beginners

#21
I highly recommend this alternative spool holder. You do have to have room next to the printer but the filament feeds in straight to the extruder. Picked up the bearings cheap on Amazon.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554
I may switch to that when I go with the enclosure and mount the spool on top. I looked at it and have the files. I don't have space to the side and the one I went with just screwed into the stock hole. They use the same bearings (it is like 7 bucks for 10 of them). This is the one I had in mind when I said "there are other designs"

Hey SSgt,

Did you print out all the 7 files ? I see that some files could be modified. Can you please explain. I want to print out the file. Just need some help. Thanks. Al

You use 6 of them. There is "main barrel" and "main barrel long" and you choose whether you want the long one or the standard one. I use the standard one and it has about an inch left with normal spools. I have multiple brands of filament and it is fine with all of them.
 
#22
View attachment 218159

Vibration "can be" a killer so I cobbled together what I think is a pretty good base. Its base is a "very" heavy cabinet that my Father made when he was a cabinet maker for my Step-Mom's desk. Seriously, the thing weights like 100lbs. I had to bring it in on a dolly. I think my Dad might have hidden gold bars in it somewhere.

Second is a 20 x 20 inch concrete paver sitting on 4 anti-vibration pads. Lastly. I tried to get rid of anything that might cause vibration and/or exacerbate it. I removed the spool, added a Z screw bearing at the top and made sure the wires were secure. I had already upgraded the springs, extruder and tube in the past.

After alot of test prints. I think I've made some progress. The black spider was before and the red one was after. The red one is depicted just the way it came off the bed (except for removing the brim and a small string where the print ended)
View attachment 218160 View attachment 218161

Besides the physical changes. I deleted all of my material settings and started over. I've learned alot in the last year and I think some of my problems were settings I changed and could not remember why so I started over from scratch, would do a test print, change a single varriable and either keep it or go back and reexamine the priblem and try something ells. I tried alot. Lol.

View attachment 218162
This is only some.
That's awesome. It is lots of work and trial and error for sure! I wish I had a big nice base like that. I saw the Z screw bearing mod too, I think that may be my next thing I do. Can't hurt right? Something like this?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080912
 

Robert S

Well-known member
#23

ColoFlyer

Active member
#24
I might also suggest installing a BL Touch to the Ender 3 V2. Once done and fully calibrated you can pretty much forget doing any bed leveling because the BL Touch will do that for you. Since I have installed the BL Touch I can easily change surfaces or start new prints without having to worry about my bed being level.
Once installed I use the JeyerUI version that does the 5X5 fast probe before every print and that ensures that the probe knows exactly where my bed is across it's surface.

There are numerous videos on youtube on how to do this but here are a couple to give you and idea of what to expect.
I like the one by Chep, cause I think he covers the Slicer setting better. But Both Videos explain the process well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091SHX5FP/?tag=lstir-20


 
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alan0043

Well-known member
#25
I may switch to that when I go with the enclosure and mount the spool on top. I looked at it and have the files. I don't have space to the side and the one I went with just screwed into the stock hole. They use the same bearings (it is like 7 bucks for 10 of them). This is the one I had in mind when I said "there are other designs"




You use 6 of them. There is "main barrel" and "main barrel long" and you choose whether you want the long one or the standard one. I use the standard one and it has about an inch left with normal spools. I have multiple brands of filament and it is fine with all of them.
Thanks SSgt,

I'll give the files a try and see what happens. So all I need is 6 parts total. I am going to use PLA+. I have some eSun filament in black. Wish me luck.
 
#26
Thanks SSgt,

I'll give the files a try and see what happens. So all I need is 6 parts total. I am going to use PLA+. I have some eSun filament in black. Wish me luck.
I had to print in "both" mode under special settings to get it to come out right. Not sure why. I tried normal mode and it wouldn't work.
 

ColoFlyer

Active member
#27
If you are trying to download files on Thingiverse and the DOWNLOAD ALL FILES doesn't work you can force it to download all files including the pics by putting /zip at the end of the of the web address.

So like if you go to the web page the SSgt Duramax listed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551666 then just go up where the address is in your browser and add a /zip to the end of the address like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551666/zip it will then zip all the files up with the pictures for you to download the zip file.
 

alan0043

Well-known member
#28
I had to print in "both" mode under special settings to get it to come out right. Not sure why. I tried normal mode and it wouldn't work.
Is special settings in the slicer ? I have the main barrel printed. The threads look fuzzy or I should say the threads have filament sticky out from the sides. I think I can clean up the threads.
 
#29
If you are trying to download files on Thingiverse and the DOWNLOAD ALL FILES doesn't work you can force it to download all files including the pics by putting /zip at the end of the of the web address.

So like if you go to the web page the SSgt Duramax listed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551666 then just go up where the address is in your browser and add a /zip to the end of the address like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551666/zip it will then zip all the files up with the pictures for you to download the zip file.
Thanks! Didnt know that trick.
 

ColoFlyer

Active member
#30
That's awesome. It is lots of work and trial and error for sure! I wish I had a big nice base like that. I saw the Z screw bearing mod too, I think that may be my next thing I do. Can't hurt right? Something like this?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080912
Another mod that I did that has greatly increased the quality of my prints is to add a Dual Z Axis Kit. This adds a lead screw to the other side of the Z axis to support it and to keep it perfectly level. There are different brand kits out there on Amazon, some requiring you to either plug to the motherboard, others that you just use a splitter cable on the original Z stepper, but they all do the same thing by keeping the Z Axis level. There are quite a few different videos out there that show the process.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FLB33PJ/?tag=lstir-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RJDW5W6/?tag=lstir-20

Just something to think about while doing future upgrades.

 
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alan0043

Well-known member
#31
Another mod that I did that has greatly increased the quality of my prints is to add a Dual Z Axis Kit. This adds a lead screw to the other side of the Z axis to support it and to keep it perfectly level. There are different brand kits out there on Amazon, some requiring you to either plug to the motherboard, others that you just use a splitter cable on the original Z stepper, but they all do the same thing by keeping the Z Axis level. There are quite a few different videos out there that show the process.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FLB33PJ/?tag=lstir-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RJDW5W6/?tag=lstir-20

Just something to think about while doing future upgrades.

2X. I have done the same thing. It just makes sense to me to have the gantry moving at the same speed on both ends.
 

ColoFlyer

Active member
#33
Another tip for getting better results with your Ender 3 v2 or any 3D printer is actually done in Cura.
Ever wonder why when you print something that has a hole in an object, (like for a screw), that it is never the true size that it is suppose to be. Like if you find an item in Thingiverse or if you create an object and there are 3 mm screw holes in it. Unless you are very lucky, you will most usually find that they are a bit too small or maybe a bit to large and don't fit the way they are suppose to. You can fix this in Cura with a setting called horizontal hole expansion. This fixed alot of my problems when adding screw holes to landing gear and power pods and other items.

There is also a horizontal hole expansion for square items.
 
#34
Another tip for getting better results with your Ender 3 v2 or any 3D printer is actually done in Cura.
Ever wonder why when you print something that has a hole in an object, (like for a screw), that it is never the true size that it is suppose to be. Like if you find an item in Thingiverse or if you create an object and there are 3 mm screw holes in it. Unless you are very lucky, you will most usually find that they are a bit too small or maybe a bit to large and don't fit the way they are suppose to. You can fix this in Cura with a setting called horizontal hole expansion. This fixed alot of my problems when adding screw holes to landing gear and power pods and other items.

There is also a horizontal hole expansion for square items.
You should have written this thread. All of the information you have given me has helped a ton! I'll get this done.
 
#36
It's all your fault!! My Ender3 v2 and upgrades are on order. I found refurbished units at the Comgrow site (https://www.comgrow.com/products/comgrow-creality-refurbished-used-ender-3-v2-3d-printer) that with discount came to $183.08 with . shipping from the US. I was a little skeptical but they got great reviews
Pretty good deal. I wish I had found that. Im printing the kids a dumptruck right now.

Its a steep learning curve. Took me a few days and some failed prints to figure out petg, but we are rocking now.
 

WillL84

Active member
#38

WillL84

Active member
#39
Here's my V2. List of mods with links:

Briss fan duct with Noctua 2040 hot end fan and 5015 blower for part cooling (duct printed in PETG) (Fan spacer I designed)
Jyers firmware
Creality magnetic spring steel PEI coated sheet
BL Touch
Dual Z kit
Raspberry Pi 3B+ with Octoprint
Logitech C270 webcam holder (for Octoprint)
Adjustable filament spool holder
Filament guide
Cable Guard
120mm PSU Fan cover
Riser feet (needed for the PSU cover, I used the 35mm ones)
Z Motor Alignment fix
USB Socket for RPi power (socket)
Creality metal extruder with Capricorn tubing
Luke Hatfield hot end mod
Cable chains (only using the Y axis setup currently)
Adjustment knob covers (aesthetic mod)
LCD Cover (keeps the dust off)
Lead screw anti-backlash kit (not yet installed)
Silicone bed mounts
Bend handle
Front power switch mount
Ferrules on power wires
Also wired the mainboard cooling fan to be always on. Default is wired with the part cooling so if you print PETG (where you don't use part cooling) you can overheat your board.

20220224_212739.jpg
 
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ColoFlyer

Active member
#40
Here's my V2. List of mods with links:
Ferrules on power wires
WillL84 mentions this upgrade in his post, but I think this is important and needs to be considered by all Ender 3V2 owners as well as other 3D printers. I also did this to my Ender 3V2 when I got it, and I also had to do it on my Sovol SV01. So if you have a different brand printer you might check it.
Watch this video, then order a Ferrule kit to make your printer safer.
Amazon Ferrule Kit