First Build FT Guinea Pig as my Trainer/First Plane.
- Thread starter Scooter The White Rabbit
- Start date
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
I see what you did there.YOUR Journey begins.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Today on "Wings"... I loved that show. Anyhow, who, way... I'm off work (Nothing to deliver), so it's into the crafty room and start on me WINGS!
A touch of clarification. I'm adjusting (Scratch Bashing) my White Bird into a Short Skyvan in a touch of a basic way.
1. I'm making the wings 1 inch longer, due to Squaring the fuselage. (7 X 7 instead of 5 X 7).
2. The underside will match the top in length to start.
3. 5 gallon longer paint sticks inside the spars running out past the nacelles.
4. The wing tips will be cut at a 45-50 degree angle then later papered over for a Horner wing tip. (It's either that or adding a drag reducing winglet.)
Then,
5. Fuselage squared, no side tapers towards the tail.
6. Moving the base of the cargo door back to just under the back of the wing, or a smidgen more.
7. Stepped tail area near the design of the C-130 Herc, only single door, drop down.
8. Extended the Wheel Pants/Skirts to cover wide 2.75" main gear, set in dual axle configuration.
9. Some internal doublets at the wing mount area, tail, and floor.
10. Installing main gear first to measure height to set nose gear at correct height.
11. Nose gear box... That is a whole other show.
A touch of clarification. I'm adjusting (Scratch Bashing) my White Bird into a Short Skyvan in a touch of a basic way.
1. I'm making the wings 1 inch longer, due to Squaring the fuselage. (7 X 7 instead of 5 X 7).
2. The underside will match the top in length to start.
3. 5 gallon longer paint sticks inside the spars running out past the nacelles.
4. The wing tips will be cut at a 45-50 degree angle then later papered over for a Horner wing tip. (It's either that or adding a drag reducing winglet.)
Then,
5. Fuselage squared, no side tapers towards the tail.
6. Moving the base of the cargo door back to just under the back of the wing, or a smidgen more.
7. Stepped tail area near the design of the C-130 Herc, only single door, drop down.
8. Extended the Wheel Pants/Skirts to cover wide 2.75" main gear, set in dual axle configuration.
9. Some internal doublets at the wing mount area, tail, and floor.
10. Installing main gear first to measure height to set nose gear at correct height.
11. Nose gear box... That is a whole other show.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Cargo Door! Idea... I'm extending the floor back, the wheel pants rear tip at the base of the door. Now that will give me room inside one side or the other to install a servo. I have a design of lashing two servo arm ends to a U-bar in the floor, strapped on one side to the arm of the servo. Then installing servo horns on the edges of a BBQ skewer reinforced cargo door. The U cross bar made of axle wire should be stiff enough to do the job. I'm thinking of using a 9 gram metal geared servo though.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
I know this is out of order/sync, but seen I already drew them up, and I wanted practice bending and gluing curved stuff...
TWO SETS OF WHEEL PANTS/SKIRTS COMPLETE! And I have been broke in by my AdTek HOT glue gun. Yes peeps, I'VE BEEN BURNED! Not bad, just a glob on the back side of a finger. But yet, THAT'S HOT STUFF! LOL
TWO SETS OF WHEEL PANTS/SKIRTS COMPLETE! And I have been broke in by my AdTek HOT glue gun. Yes peeps, I'VE BEEN BURNED! Not bad, just a glob on the back side of a finger. But yet, THAT'S HOT STUFF! LOL
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Traced, cut, held my breath, prepped two Scratch and two kit wing halves. Now... the Double Bevel! Four Times!
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
White Wing...
All done but for Nacelles, power pod install...
Then after that, the kit wing.
Any questions concerning what the #%$& is what. Ask. I be tired, work tomorrow.
All done but for Nacelles, power pod install...
Then after that, the kit wing.
Any questions concerning what the #%$& is what. Ask. I be tired, work tomorrow.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
When I trimmed/beveled the leading edge... I cut a bit deep. Then remembered a trick Josh did with the Legacy, BBQ skewers inside there. At the spar... That is three 5-gallon paint sticks, the center one has the (Handle?) cut off and centered. The long top DTFB spars are then cut down the thickness of the paint sticks. The cable access doors are there as well, figured I'd just keep them closed. Hope to have time tonight to draw up, cut out, and install the nacelles, then Power Pods! I'm still thinking of angle cutting the wing tips. Can't finish them until my light kits are in, and I can install the LED's.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
BTW... The angle iron in on the back of the build table isn't going into a wing. I use that to spread my hand pressure across the wing after applying the GLUE, HOT GLUE... GIT IT FROM GORILLA MAN! GLUE, HOT GLUE... GIT WHEN YOU CAN.
PoorManRC
Master member
I have just finished angle cutting the Wings, Rudder and Elevator Leading Edges..... I also coated the bare Foam with Gorilla Glue, GORILLA GLUE MAN! GIT IT, GOT IT. I'm sure it did NOTHING for Aerodynamics, but it looks a damn sight better!!!
I'm really going to try to get pictures up today!
Are you going to make "Lampshade" Wings?? I gotta see that!
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
No on the lampshades. I'm installing Nav and Anti-Collision flashers into the wing tips, tail White, and top and bottom red blinkers. I will use Josh's Hot Glue Tip taking a scrap chunk, cutting a slot and sealing all exposed edges. I thought about trimming the leading edges (Exposed Foam), but I kind of hacked the scratch built wings bevel cuts. 6th picture you can see the inside of the elevator is cut open and I had to tape over it. I need to add a small chunk on the horn side as well.
I thought about trying cutting my scrap piece with a touch of a wedge to taper the exposed edges. We'll see how that works. Hopefully paint will show a cleaner end product. Can't work to late tonight on her, long day tomorrow. 12 hours, 540 miles before I sleep. I know it's Friday, but I need the hours.
I thought about trying cutting my scrap piece with a touch of a wedge to taper the exposed edges. We'll see how that works. Hopefully paint will show a cleaner end product. Can't work to late tonight on her, long day tomorrow. 12 hours, 540 miles before I sleep. I know it's Friday, but I need the hours.
PoorManRC
Master member
Cool. I'd like to see how you do that! I guess maybe Aluminum Foil to make the area around the LED, opaque.
I tried something audacious, for a N00B on my FIRST Plane.....
I sanded ALL edges round, and instead of Hot Glue, I used White Gorilla Glue - which is lighter. It takes a few hours to dry, but it dries pretty hard, and soaks into the Paper, bonding it.
It takes Paint better, and sands smooth.
..... Yeah, I'm new here, but I've been in RC Ground Vehicles for over 37 Years, and Model Railroading for 42!! I've picked up a few ideas along the way.
I tried something audacious, for a N00B on my FIRST Plane.....
I sanded ALL edges round, and instead of Hot Glue, I used White Gorilla Glue - which is lighter. It takes a few hours to dry, but it dries pretty hard, and soaks into the Paper, bonding it.
It takes Paint better, and sands smooth.
..... Yeah, I'm new here, but I've been in RC Ground Vehicles for over 37 Years, and Model Railroading for 42!! I've picked up a few ideas along the way.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Took a few minutes to cut a Horner shape into the underside of the wing tips. Hmm. Was thinking... I know, dangerous... the paper backed foil from a cigarette pack might be easier to glue into place. I agree with sanding the edges/bevels on my third bird might be better. I'm using a room now with... (Inhale) CARPET! The flooring dreaded by all modelers, but in this house the stuff is EVERYWHERE! Pray for me...
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
My brain is buzzing. I don't like what I'm hearing about the weak nose gear box assembly. I want to extended the gear forward... but adding a bigger support box and upper doubler that angles forward to support it. Just may end up building a interior doubler for the whole fuselage like Peter did with the Devron birds. Hmm. Plus i have that huge bag of think "Horse" tongue depressor/craft sticks... Hmm...
PoorManRC
Master member
I like THIS idea, but I'm building a whole box out of Basswood or Hobby Grade Plywood....
And, I would invest in a GOOD Vacuum Cleaner!!
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Good vac i have! Your set up looks close to my brain plan, except for my fuselage being square. Oh, and i'm cheating with Duo Bro nose gear clamps that are screwed into wood back plate. No I figured I'd build thin stick angled brace box to hold up a section of paint stick with the gear clamps mounted on it. Then hold the axle with some of the wheel collars i got.
This is the other thing I've been tossing around.
Loosely I think this will work. I like cutting the design of the central rudder down into just the base to help stabilize the tail section into the fuselage with a small rudder piece to mount three servo horns on to wire out to the twin rudders.
This is the other thing I've been tossing around.
Loosely I think this will work. I like cutting the design of the central rudder down into just the base to help stabilize the tail section into the fuselage with a small rudder piece to mount three servo horns on to wire out to the twin rudders.
PoorManRC
Master member
That looks complex, and simple..... Three Rudders??
That's not MY Nose Gear plan. I wanted to do something like that, but it likely will be more like yours.
Not exactly like it, but a Basswood Box and a sprung DuBro Nose Gear. It's going on a Storch (very Modified), so it's probably way too long for a rod to the front, so I'll probably build a Servo Mount on the wood box.
That's not MY Nose Gear plan. I wanted to do something like that, but it likely will be more like yours.
Not exactly like it, but a Basswood Box and a sprung DuBro Nose Gear. It's going on a Storch (very Modified), so it's probably way too long for a rod to the front, so I'll probably build a Servo Mount on the wood box.
Scooter The White Rabbit
Active member
Center "Rudder" is only big enough to have locking tabs on the bottom, and tall enough to have a piece that can hold the three center servo horns. This way the tail plane has the locking bracing the center rudder would give, without the big chunk of a third surface.
This is a quick drawing of what I was thinking.
This is a quick drawing of what I was thinking.
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