I set up flaperons on my Tiny Trainer with my i6. I'm no radio programming expert, but this worked for me.
I left one aileron on channel 1, then moved the other to channel 6. Mix 1 makes them move opposite each other based on the stick input. Mixes 2 and 3 make them function as flaps based on the setting of the VrB knob.
Those are some good tips from Andrew Newton. By leaving my neg. mix numbers at 0 on mixes 2 and 3, I basically just achieved the same thing he did with the offset. I didn't need/want spoilerons, so everything just went to a neutral configuration if the knob was at the mid point or below. You do need the offset if you're moving it onto the switch, though.
As he notes, you can't feel the center position on those knobs, so it would be somewhat tricky to fly the way he initially programs it. Hence the new knobs I made so I can feel the position.
My last tiny trainer wing (now deceased), had a single servo operating the ailerons, but I think I will go with 2 servos so i can set up flaperons per the instructions in this thread. Thanks for the ideas!
To be honest I was planning on the 2 servo option anyway since the wing broke right through the mount point of the single servo. I'm pretty sure it killed the strength of the main joint between the two wing halves. Anyway, this gives me something else to learn, and so it isn't so bad.
Your knob looks like a perfect solution. I was thinking about installing sliders on the top of the radio, but this is much simpler as mods go. My i6 is getting pretty hot rodded at this point with a 3.5mm PPM jack on the back, the 10ch firmware, and soon your knobs. I'm also considering wiring in the $10 multi-protocol TX board so that I can bind to my toy quads.
That was actauly my plan when I created those knobs. I had just watched Andrew Newton (he's popular in this thread) do the same thing to his Taranis Q X7. I'll probably still do it whenever my i6 is my "beater" radio. It's still my primary radio for now, though, so I'm holding back with the drill and soldering iron.