Flite Fest 2017: Bugatti 100P

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Construction started this weekend. I picked up a sheet of foam for all of $20 and got the main portions rough cut. Here are the blocks that will make the fuselage. 4 layers of 2" thick foam. The two outer portions are affixed using super 77 spray glue. Here, the center section is drying under weight. I traced the side fuselage profile onto one section and put dots of gorilla glue to hold the two halves together. Once I carve the overall shape, I can split the fuselage into two sections again and hollow it out to shed weight. After that I will glass the fuselage.
IMG_2993.JPG

Here you can see I got the main wing panels cut as well. 14.75" at the root and 3.75" at the tip. I traced the side-profile on the fuselage block. Before I carve anything into the block I will dremel out a recess for the wings to slip into. It will make more sense why I'm doing that after I complete it.
IMG_2995.JPG
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
As a tip, I've found AirfoilTools to be a valuable tool for these scratch builds. You can search for the foil you need and generate a PDF with your chord size. Its a nice one-step solution if you are using standard airfoils. Just download the PDF and away to the printer. I've got my root and tip printouts for the wing as well as another root foil to mark the fuselage. Hope to get the root carved into the fuselage this evening.
 

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
Mentor
What's your time frame for needing those high detail pics? I have to talk to the curator at the EAA museum to see if we can get into the Bugatti exhibit (something that I'm pretty sure he'll do) and it might take a few weeks after that to actually get to the museum. I'll also need a list for areas that you want me to get pictures of.

It's geed to see the foam coming together.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Really all I need are shots of the bottom V-stab transitioning into the fuselage. I have some vague shots of it but its generally not a well-documented area. My plan is to start carving out the fuselage over the next week or so. Getting to the stabs (where I will need those shots) is still a ways out.
 

Aeronaut

Build+Crash= +more power!
out of curiosity why did you go with pink foam over blue foam. I know that the pink stuff is stronger but heavier and the blue is lighter but not as strong.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I have a Home Depot less than a mile from my house. They only carry the pink stuff. Its just easy. That is all. I've worked with both and for me there really is no difference.
 

saiga556

Full of...
I've used both colors and don't really see much of a difference. The pink seems a bit harder and scratches rather than giving and the blue seems softer and flexes a little before something scratches it.

For some reason I think the blue sands better, not much but better.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Using reference pictures and the drawings I measured where the wing root should sit on the side profile. As I want ZERO incidence in the wing I made a line parallel to the datum line (thrust line) for proper placement of the airfoil. I traced the airfoil shape and repeated the process on the opposite side.
IMG_2997.JPG

I set the rasping bit of my dremel to 2.25" deep and went to town. Being careful with the first pass was tricky but weighing down the block and using two hands helps. After the first pass the end of the rasping bit was right on the edge of the foam and this part has no cutting portion. This allowed me to go deeper into the foam without going outside the edges. Getting the inside parts bored out required a steady hand, lots of patience, and a dust mask.
IMG_2998.JPG

Time for hot wire cutting! I setup my vertical, jigsaw-style, bow and using little pressure let the hot wire do the work. Top and bottom profiles roughly cut and looking darn near perfect to start carving.
IMG_2999.JPG

Time for the top/bottom profile to be cut. I had to print another copy of the views as I had cut up the previous top profile for the wing. Traced onto the foam, I setup for another run of cuts. I got one side completly cut perfectly. Unfortunately my wire snapped (old and thinner wire than on my main bows) about 1/4 of the way into the second cut so I finished the job using my small bow clamped to the table and a very steady hand. Its not perfect but the block is still useable.
IMG_3001.JPG

With the fuselage block cut and ready for shaping, I moved onto preparing to cut the wing cores. These are the wing roots. I'm going with a positive template here for a couple of reasons but the primary one is the following: This will be THE most difficult set of wings I have ever cut. The reason is that the root is 14.75" long and the tip is 3.75" long. This means that for every inch I cut on the tip I need to cut nearly 4" at the root. The kerf, or the amount of foam the hot wire will melt, will be greater at the tip than at the root due to how slowly the wire will be moving at the tip. Remember the heat is the same along the length of the wire. Radiating heat from the wire will continue to melt the foam at the tip as I continue to cut the root. With the positive templates I'm hoping that this will aid in preventing serious damage to the tips during the cutting process as it will give me about 1/16 of an inch more of foam to work with. Remember, the tip is 3.75" in length with a NACA0008 airfoil. It's not just short, but thin as well.
IMG_3002.JPG

My plan is to try and setup a video camera when I do the fuselage shaping and do a time-lapse. It should be fairly entertaining to watch the shape come together. Not to mention, you get to see me sporting my dust mask.
 
Last edited:

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
Looking forward to seeing her shaped up! Have you started thinking about retracts and doors yet? Those wings are definitely thin but they should work.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Yes! Retracts will be e-tracts with metal trunions. Oleos will be a must to give some damping and with 3" wheels this will help a lot with ground handling. Doors will be simple flat sheet on the mains. Wheels will be open for simplicity as the folding doors are very complex. If there was a simple sprung way to do it I may consider it. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. The wing root is nearly 2" thick so there is ample room to hide the landing gear and I DO plan to incorporate some forward rake to help with the tip-over symptoms.
 

saiga556

Full of...
It will be tricky cutting that wing without melting the tips a bunch. I have found that using a negative template yields me better results than the positive ones. I also have found it necessary to enlarge the smaller template to compensate for shrinkage that occurs.

Is there any dihedral built into your wing pockets?
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I normally do use negative templates but as I said, I have some concerns with those tips. There is not currently any dihedral built into the pockets. There is a maximum pocket depth of 1/4 inch and the dihedral will be set with the ply spar. Once I get it in there, trimming the pockets as-needed will be relatively easy with a rasping file.
 

saiga556

Full of...
I normally do use negative templates but as I said, I have some concerns with those tips. There is not currently any dihedral built into the pockets. There is a maximum pocket depth of 1/4 inch and the dihedral will be set with the ply spar. Once I get it in there, trimming the pockets as-needed will be relatively easy with a rasping file.

Small thin foam pieces is a lot of the reason I would like to get a CNC router table going. On my Yak 11 build I went through a few tries to get the tips size correctly because of the guess work that went along wing hotwire cutting them

I get what your doing with the pockets now. I was afraid to go that route because of the internal hollow in the fuselage. Scared of the forces excreted on the thing fuse wall even with a hefty spar.
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Yes! Retracts will be e-tracts with metal trunions. Oleos will be a must to give some damping and with 3" wheels this will help a lot with ground handling. Doors will be simple flat sheet on the mains. Wheels will be open for simplicity as the folding doors are very complex. If there was a simple sprung way to do it I may consider it. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. The wing root is nearly 2" thick so there is ample room to hide the landing gear and I DO plan to incorporate some forward rake to help with the tip-over symptoms.

There is a simple way of making a landing gear door close when the wheels retract but I am not sure if it suits your requirement for scale and simplicity.

In the old days we would hinge the door to the wing underside using your preferred method though the old solarfilm hinge was popular. Then on the inside of the door a paperclip was glued such that one loop was on the door and the remainder which was straightened was pointed past the hinge.

One leg of the paperclip was bent at 90 degrees so that it would touch the retracted tyre in the closed position. The other leg had a small loop bent in the end and it was attached to the other side of the wheel well with a rubberband or similar.

The only real problem is that the door would open in flight if the rubber band broke. The only tip is to put a small 90 degree bend where the wheel touches the paperclip because the tyre will be rotating when the wheel is retracted and too much friction could damage the hinge.

Love the build and applaud your engineering input. :applause:
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Just a short addendum to the door closer design.

The door had sloping edges to fit firmly into the opening and the opening had a small lip all around the inside to stop the door leaning inwards when the wheel was fully retracted.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Yes, I'm very familiar with this type of gear door. If you look closely you will notice that the gear door on the Bugatti is actually located on the gear itself. It pivots off the door the is affixed the mains' legs. This is similar to a Polikarpov I-16.

Moving along, I got the wing cores cut last night. They will need some work but I'm liking the results.

 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
OK. So you do want it to be close to scale.:)

I do have another design which is similar to the original aircraft design but it is a little more complicated three door design and it would require the upper, "Oleo", covering door to be hinged at the wing underside surface.

I will use up no more of your time just let me know if you want the rough design which of course you would need to do your own sizing and polishing up.

Still look great. have fun