FinalGlideAus
terrorizing squirrels
My APM will disarm itself if you don't touch the throttle after 10 or 15 seconds.
Fortis TITAN Build
- Thread starter ikem
- Start date
You could flash the multistars...but even flashed they're not as good as the F's or Blue Series. The stalling you describe is a big part of why I have so little good to say about the multistars. Flashing them with simonK would solve that problem, and if you're running the 30A version they should have pads so flashing isn't that hard. But they still wouldn't perform as well as the F30's or Blue Series and couldn't be reflashed through the servo connector like the F's and Blue's can.
If you like the performance of your multi now you'll LOVE it with simonK ESC's. I thought I was happy with mine on multistars and was in no big hurry to switch to simonK. I did it mainly because I like flashing things. But now that I've done it I wish I had done it way sooner.
Oh - and I'd suggest the F's over the Blue's if you're going to flash them yourselves since the F's have the pads all in a row so it's easy to make something that will hold the pins in place while flashing - while the Blue's have the pads scattered about so it's a bit trickier to flash them without the overpriced tool that goes over the processor. Though the method I used from RCHacker wasn't that hard to do: http://www.rchacker.com/diy/simonk-esc-firmware-flashing did take me a few tries on some of them to get good contact with the pads though.
FWIW the F's are "hard" to find on HK since a search for "F20" or "F30" won't bring them up as their search apparently doesn't search the part number. So here's a link to the F30's in case you decide to go that route: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15205__Hobby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html (Or from the US warehouse: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40685__Hobby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC_USA_warehouse_.html)
RCTimer also has some pre-flashed ESC's in their US store: http://www.uavobjects.com/product-category/esc/
If you like the performance of your multi now you'll LOVE it with simonK ESC's. I thought I was happy with mine on multistars and was in no big hurry to switch to simonK. I did it mainly because I like flashing things. But now that I've done it I wish I had done it way sooner.
Oh - and I'd suggest the F's over the Blue's if you're going to flash them yourselves since the F's have the pads all in a row so it's easy to make something that will hold the pins in place while flashing - while the Blue's have the pads scattered about so it's a bit trickier to flash them without the overpriced tool that goes over the processor. Though the method I used from RCHacker wasn't that hard to do: http://www.rchacker.com/diy/simonk-esc-firmware-flashing did take me a few tries on some of them to get good contact with the pads though.
FWIW the F's are "hard" to find on HK since a search for "F20" or "F30" won't bring them up as their search apparently doesn't search the part number. So here's a link to the F30's in case you decide to go that route: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15205__Hobby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html (Or from the US warehouse: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40685__Hobby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC_USA_warehouse_.html)
RCTimer also has some pre-flashed ESC's in their US store: http://www.uavobjects.com/product-category/esc/
ikem
Senior Member
mine does too, but it isn't a disarm. the props stop individually and i still have yaw control.
I will look into some flashed escs. I really dont want to try and flash these 20a multistars
Also, I would like to get a 30a just incase i would go 4s. These motors can throw a 11x4.7 prop on 4s just fine.
ikem
Senior Member
I had 3 Hobbywing Skywalker 40a Escs floating around from a quad build that crashed, and they work just fine. Still not simonk yet, but that will hold me over until then. I am also getting better flight times with them. +19% on the same setup (but escs)
I think im going to get some t motor style 12x5.5 props and test them out.
I think im going to get some t motor style 12x5.5 props and test them out.
ikem
Senior Member
Ok, I am going to do an update article on the upgrades and changes.
What would you guys like to see? I am really pushing the limits of a tricopter, as the AUW is around 1.8kg with gimbal and 3600. Which has a flight time of around 7:30 with 11x5 CF props. The 13x5.5 should be a little better.
So far upgrades are:
3D Robotics APM 2.6 with MinimOSD and 900mhz Telemetry
Fortis AirFrames Landing Gear V2
SunnySky X3108S 900kv Motors
Tons of Prop testing (13x5.5, 12x4.5, 11x5, 10x4.5)
Battery Testing (All 3s: 2200, 3600, 2x2200, 6000mah)
GPS flight and tuning
Fortis AirFrames Brushless Gimbal with Martinez Contoller.
MinimOSD Setup and 5v Mod
Hobbywing 40a ESC
What would you guys like to see? I am really pushing the limits of a tricopter, as the AUW is around 1.8kg with gimbal and 3600. Which has a flight time of around 7:30 with 11x5 CF props. The 13x5.5 should be a little better.
So far upgrades are:
3D Robotics APM 2.6 with MinimOSD and 900mhz Telemetry
Fortis AirFrames Landing Gear V2
SunnySky X3108S 900kv Motors
Tons of Prop testing (13x5.5, 12x4.5, 11x5, 10x4.5)
Battery Testing (All 3s: 2200, 3600, 2x2200, 6000mah)
GPS flight and tuning
Fortis AirFrames Brushless Gimbal with Martinez Contoller.
MinimOSD Setup and 5v Mod
Hobbywing 40a ESC
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Wow 1.8 on a tri is pushing it. What's it like to fly at that weight?
it is pretty nice to fly.
FinalGlideAus
terrorizing squirrels
What flight mode was that in?
FinalGlideAus
terrorizing squirrels
Ahh ok. I fly acro mode and was wondering why it kept leveling itself. Acro mode will do that also if you don't turn the self level features off in advanced params. I still don't understand why they make an acro mode and still have self leveling features turned on as default in the APM. It frustrated me for a week till I found out how to change it.
ikem
Senior Member
ok so battery testing. I have came to the fact that this is a heavy tri and my times will be lower than any other.
here is what I have so far.
Only thing that isn't really self explanatory is the efficiency. It is the Prop/motor combo for the weight of the copter compared to the Frame by itself with my old main props. So 10 inch props are 4% worse, and the 13 inch props are 20% better. But with the 13 inch props, really loading it (gimbal) effects the efficiency a lot.
Times are all for 80% battery capacity.
I still have a lot more testing to do, but the numbers look solid so far.
here is what I have so far.
Only thing that isn't really self explanatory is the efficiency. It is the Prop/motor combo for the weight of the copter compared to the Frame by itself with my old main props. So 10 inch props are 4% worse, and the 13 inch props are 20% better. But with the 13 inch props, really loading it (gimbal) effects the efficiency a lot.
Times are all for 80% battery capacity.
I still have a lot more testing to do, but the numbers look solid so far.
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FinalGlideAus
terrorizing squirrels
One thing to take into consideration is prop tip speed. There will always be an efficient speed for the tip. being outside of that reduces efficiency. This is why smaller props can spin faster because the tip has less distance to travel for one revolution and is not moving as fast to get the same RPM. I can't give numbers cause it's not my area of expertise but something I've watched and learned from the experts. Just something else to make it even more complicated.
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ikem
Senior Member
yea, but right now I am going to just compare the props I have to weight and mah used. I know that if I used a Graupner 11x5, that it would totally beat my Ebay 11x5. I am not looking to look at every design and brand of prop.
But yes, i thought about tip speeds and how it effects the 11x5, which needs a higher tip speed, and the 13x5.5 which is designed for lower tip speed to begin with.
John Ericson
Junior Member
Hi ikem!
That gimbal looks really good but I can't find it anywhere on the net. Do you know what it is called and where I can find it?
Thanks in advance
John
That gimbal looks really good but I can't find it anywhere on the net. Do you know what it is called and where I can find it?
Thanks in advance
John
ikem
Senior Member
I am working with Fortis on developing it. So it isnt for sale anywhere yet.
That's a sweet battery tray/gimbal mount. I like the mounting provisions for the gimbal controller. Disregarding the motors, it looks pretty light.
I didn't know Fortis was working on their own, so I began making my own:
Unfortunately my gimbal is super heavy. It still flies ok with the gimbal and an extra 920mAh 3s strapped to it. However, I just added my FPV transmitter, and in the process of re-wiring my power distribution harness to run everything on my main battery I accidentally burned up my gimbal controller. While I am waiting for a new gimbal controller, I'll probably take it all apart and have the aluminum parts milled down more.
Are you going to do more testing with the gimbal?
I am currently running the T-motor 2212-13 980kV with 10x5 Graupner props. I was burning through about 2500mAh of power in 11-12mins running the normal camera mount and GoPro without the gimbal. I'm running a 2700mAh 3s Thunderpower pack.
ikem
Senior Member
nice! is that a rtfquad gimbal?
I am getting around 8 min to burn 2500mah right now with the regular camera tray and a 3600mah. What is your total frame weight? I must just have a lot of problems with flight times.... everyone gets about 50% more than I ever do.
I am getting around 8 min to burn 2500mah right now with the regular camera tray and a 3600mah. What is your total frame weight? I must just have a lot of problems with flight times.... everyone gets about 50% more than I ever do.
Yes it's the RTFQuad gimbal which they sell for the Flip FPV Pro Gimbal frame. I drew up a quick mount and had a machinist buddy make it for me.
I really have no clue what the AUW is for my setup with or without the gimbal. I am new to multirotors (although I have flown collective pitch single rotors for ~5 years) and basically sized and spec'd everything based on what Fortis Airframes suggested on the website. My motor and prop combo should be making ~920g of thrust at full throttle, but I was thinking of switching to 4s power and running smaller 9" props which should put out ~1100g of thrust according to T-motors charts. Not sure if that would just counter act the extra weight of going 4s though.
I guess I need to get a scale and start weighing my stuff. I'm just starting to realize how quickly accessory weight adds up.
