Last week I flew my modified mmm. I halved the angle of the wings for more acrobatic capabilities and doubled the size of the ruder for more response. It is noticeable more aggressive during flight, but boy that thing ROCKS! So if you like the mmm and are looking for some more action, just try those two (very simple) mods. you wont be disappointed!
FT Mighty Mini Mustang
- Thread starter xMeox
- Start date
Ever figure out the problem? Seems like you may have some bad up angle on the motor, or perhaps youre still tail heavy somehow, could be slop in control surfaces too, hard to tell even if you fly it sometimes.Guys,
Maidened my Old Crow MM yesterday. Things didn't go so well. Looking for any ideas.
Have done (most of) a scratch build over the weekend, my first foam board plane, from the scratch build plans (FT Mini Mustang v1.0) - Amazed that I got the entire plane from just one sheet of foam board with loads of board left over:
Just waiting for the electronics to arrive and need some poster board to make the top. I cut the motor firewall from 3mm ply and also some control horns. Not easy to get the kits delivered to the UK, so I decided on cutting it out myself - fancied the challenge! This is the plane so far:
I did come across several mistakes in the v1.0 plans which I thought I should point out:
First there issues with 2 of the formers which slot into the battery hatch (one is actually the lock piece, so not really a former) - which the bbq skewer goes through, which does not push through enough to reach beyond the 2 layers of foam board, so some modification required, and the other is the former directly behind the lock which doesn't extend out beyond the battery hatch to engage into the slot of the fuselage, but not really a problem, as it already has that lock piece which provides enough attachment in that area of the lid by itself.
The next mistake is is the drawing of the front lower cover (bottom sheeting B on the plan), which is far too long. Easy fix to shorten it.
Next is the Battery hatch itself, it does not have the cavity part marked which allows a tab of paper which should be folder and glued over the front lip.
Next, the wing slots in the fuselage are not wide enough for the wing to fit in. I had to widen the profile by about 2mm.
Lastly, the wings - there are no cut-outs for the servos shown in the plans - again not a biggie but worth mentioning.
Looking forward to getting the rest of the bits to finish the plane
Just waiting for the electronics to arrive and need some poster board to make the top. I cut the motor firewall from 3mm ply and also some control horns. Not easy to get the kits delivered to the UK, so I decided on cutting it out myself - fancied the challenge! This is the plane so far:
I did come across several mistakes in the v1.0 plans which I thought I should point out:
First there issues with 2 of the formers which slot into the battery hatch (one is actually the lock piece, so not really a former) - which the bbq skewer goes through, which does not push through enough to reach beyond the 2 layers of foam board, so some modification required, and the other is the former directly behind the lock which doesn't extend out beyond the battery hatch to engage into the slot of the fuselage, but not really a problem, as it already has that lock piece which provides enough attachment in that area of the lid by itself.
The next mistake is is the drawing of the front lower cover (bottom sheeting B on the plan), which is far too long. Easy fix to shorten it.
Next is the Battery hatch itself, it does not have the cavity part marked which allows a tab of paper which should be folder and glued over the front lip.
Next, the wing slots in the fuselage are not wide enough for the wing to fit in. I had to widen the profile by about 2mm.
Lastly, the wings - there are no cut-outs for the servos shown in the plans - again not a biggie but worth mentioning.
Looking forward to getting the rest of the bits to finish the plane
I also noticed some of those problems. Most of them are easy to compensate. The wingscutouts are imo the right size for a lasercutter, as it melts the foam down a little bit. For knifecutting add a mm on each side to your plans for the next builds an you are fine.
Have fun flying her, she is one of the best ft designs imo!
Have fun flying her, she is one of the best ft designs imo!
I'm just finishing my first scratch build of the MM Mustang. I've built and crashed 3 of the Speed Build kits. But got many flights/rebuilds out of each prior to replacing. I love this plane, soo oops much fun to fly. I like using linkage stoppers on the ailerons only as the can't be trimmed out individually. My models all seem to fly with one or the other wing heavy. I'd rather trim it out with one aileron rather than both.
A couple mods I did with this build is;
A carbon fiber reinforcement in the first crease of the wing. It starts mid spar and extends to the wingtip. .125 X .045 flatstock. About 7" long.
Wooden coffee stirrers from former B to the front tip of the hatch. Inset like balsa runners. Keeps the hatch from folding upwards in the event of a lawn dart impact.
Motor pod gets a diagonal reinforcement (carbon fiber) to just above the center of the firewall. Mine always get spongy right behind the firewall allowing the motor to move vertically.
I also use carbon fiber in the elevator rather than a skewer, just makes for a cleaner install IMHO.
The one it's replacing. Really not terrible, but fuselage is twisted enough that wing and horizontal stab are no longer parallel. Wing tip is broken at the bottom plate.
Cheers
A couple mods I did with this build is;
A carbon fiber reinforcement in the first crease of the wing. It starts mid spar and extends to the wingtip. .125 X .045 flatstock. About 7" long.
Wooden coffee stirrers from former B to the front tip of the hatch. Inset like balsa runners. Keeps the hatch from folding upwards in the event of a lawn dart impact.
Motor pod gets a diagonal reinforcement (carbon fiber) to just above the center of the firewall. Mine always get spongy right behind the firewall allowing the motor to move vertically.
I also use carbon fiber in the elevator rather than a skewer, just makes for a cleaner install IMHO.
The one it's replacing. Really not terrible, but fuselage is twisted enough that wing and horizontal stab are no longer parallel. Wing tip is broken at the bottom plate.
Cheers
The E-Flite 1000 Mah 3S will work fine in standard configuration. In my eyes the problem isn't the weight, but the width. The E-Flite 1000 3s is same width as 800 3s just longer. I run a Suppo M2208-1000kv which is heavier than the EMax 2204-2300kv and have no trouble getting CG right with 5 gram servos in standard location. The battery mounts half way up the wing. Careful placement of the receiver is required however.
varg
Build cheap, crash cheap
I'm loving my mini Mustang, it's my favorite FT plane at this point. Flies great.
Emax RS2205 2300kv, APC 6x4, 30A BLHeli ESC, 4 cheapo 5g servos, 1000mAh 3S battery. 287G flying weight.
The only modification to the original design is the removal of the little hatch holddown piece, it gets in the way of the battery. The hatch is held on by T-pins which puncture the fuselage into the foam at the top fold. It's about halfway painted now, will post pics when it's done.
See above. No need for 9g servos. My battery has to go all of the way forward as it is and the motor/ESC combo is heavier than the typical 1806/12A ESC.
The only modification to the original design is the removal of the little hatch holddown piece, it gets in the way of the battery. The hatch is held on by T-pins which puncture the fuselage into the foam at the top fold. It's about halfway painted now, will post pics when it's done.
See above. No need for 9g servos. My battery has to go all of the way forward as it is and the motor/ESC combo is heavier than the typical 1806/12A ESC.
I too wish to extoll the virtues of the FT mini mustang. I've had the kit since last summer, but only got around to building it a few weeks ago.
And a different angle:
It flies so well! I'm so happy with it. Actually, the first time I threw it, it was a bad throw and I crashed it. But a little hot glue, and I got it into the air.
The bright asymmetric paint job is a real lifesaver. My 53yo eyes aren't what they were, and the plane is small, so it really helps with perspective. I built it without rudder control; I'm happy to yank-n-bank. What I also like about the mini planes is they don't mind a hard landing.
I've collected a variety of batteries, and to my delight, the mustang flies with almost all of them! I've got an 1806 motor, 6x3 prop, and 12amp SC (so, an A pack), and I've found my mustang can fly with a 400mah 2s, all the way to a 1000mah 3s. There's a cavity right under the motor for the small batteries to fit into, and the fuse is cramped when I put the 1000 3s in, but it all works. I would imagine that, for this motor, an 850mah 3s battery would be perfect, and you could probably get amazing vertical with a 650 3s.
Did I mention it flies well? I really had to dial down the aileron throws, and I'm happy using 50% expo. Also, the wing tips seem to want to get banged up and delaminate. A little tape fixes that. When I build another one, I'll do the Josh method of sealing the wing edges with smeared hot glue.
I was enjoying myself so much, but then CRASH!
Pilot error. Remember, kids, when you're too low and too excited, a split-s is a split-end.
I've had the kit since last summer, but only got around to building it a few weeks ago.
And a different angle:
It flies so well! I'm so happy with it. Actually, the first time I threw it, it was a bad throw and I crashed it. But a little hot glue, and I got it into the air.
The bright asymmetric paint job is a real lifesaver. My 53yo eyes aren't what they were, and the plane is small, so it really helps with perspective. I built it without rudder control; I'm happy to yank-n-bank. What I also like about the mini planes is they don't mind a hard landing.
I've collected a variety of batteries, and to my delight, the mustang flies with almost all of them! I've got an 1806 motor, 6x3 prop, and 12amp SC (so, an A pack), and I've found my mustang can fly with a 400mah 2s, all the way to a 1000mah 3s. There's a cavity right under the motor for the small batteries to fit into, and the fuse is cramped when I put the 1000 3s in, but it all works. I would imagine that, for this motor, an 850mah 3s battery would be perfect, and you could probably get amazing vertical with a 650 3s.
Did I mention it flies well? I really had to dial down the aileron throws, and I'm happy using 50% expo. Also, the wing tips seem to want to get banged up and delaminate. A little tape fixes that. When I build another one, I'll do the Josh method of sealing the wing edges with smeared hot glue.
I was enjoying myself so much, but then CRASH!
Pilot error. Remember, kids, when you're too low and too excited, a split-s is a split-end.
rickp
Active member
Answering my own question, I went with the A pack, plus the F pack motor and an extra ESC/BEC.
I subsequently built two power pods - one with the A motor and one with the F motor.
Have tested both power pods in my Tiny Trainer, and as expected the F motor is significantly stronger.
The A pod has marginal power when I fly with my heavy aileron / flap wing, while the F pod just rips.
Flying with a 3S 430mAh Eflite battery, I think I can consistently get 5 minute flights with comfortable margin.
My Mini-Mustang is still under construction, but based on my Tiny Trainer I think the Mustang will be fine with only the A pod.
I'll update this post after I've flown the Mustang.
Cheers, Rick Tiny Trainer Blog, Mini-Mustang Blog
dryhiker
Member
I have flown with both the A motor and the F motor. They both fly well, but the F motor has enormous power. Throttled back they can be similar, but because the F setup is heavier, you will need to maintain a little more speed. Landings are faster with the F setup as well. Practice with the A pack for a while, because you can get into trouble with the power of the F pack.
I love the MMM! The way it swoops through the sky is impressive and begs for more aero than I can give it.
I love the MMM! The way it swoops through the sky is impressive and begs for more aero than I can give it.
rickp
Active member
Thanks dryhiker!
Maidened mine with the A motor last last week and it flies like a dream - not a click of trim needed.
Comfortably fast, so will stick with the A motor. Plus, I'm using the F motor in my Tiny Trainer.
Pictures below show my MM before and after I applied the Rasterize skin. It looks pretty neat.
FYI, you can see that I built mine with a flat top for simplicity.
More pictures can be found in my MM blog here.
Cheers, rick
Attachments
Last edited:
rickp
Active member
Hi dryhiker,
Rasterize has created a wonderful selection of downloadable skins that you can find here.
You can also get them pre-printed from Rasterize at this site.
I printed mine on peel and stick label paper, and it is definitely not water resistant.
The ink runs, so I think it is more an issue of water based ink than a paper issue.
That said, the water spots give it an interesting weathered look.
And I can always print a new skin if it gets too bad.
The Tiny Trainer is so much more than a "trainer".
I've created two new wings for mine - a longer glider type wing, and a stunt wing with symmetrical airfoil and dedicated flaps.
Take a look at my TT blog here if you'd like to know more.
Cheers, rick
Rasterize has created a wonderful selection of downloadable skins that you can find here.
You can also get them pre-printed from Rasterize at this site.
I printed mine on peel and stick label paper, and it is definitely not water resistant.
The ink runs, so I think it is more an issue of water based ink than a paper issue.
That said, the water spots give it an interesting weathered look.
And I can always print a new skin if it gets too bad.
The Tiny Trainer is so much more than a "trainer".
I've created two new wings for mine - a longer glider type wing, and a stunt wing with symmetrical airfoil and dedicated flaps.
Take a look at my TT blog here if you'd like to know more.
Cheers, rick
