FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit - "Paul I"

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit - "Paul I" You Print it. You Build it.

The second in my Mighty Mini P51 Mustang paper replacement or "skin" set is Paul I, a P51 currently on display at the EAA Museum in Oshkosh, WI. This aircraft belonged to the late Paul Poberezny. Paul was widely considered as the first person to have universalized the tradition of aircraft homebuilding. Through his work with EAA, he had the reputation of inspiring millions of people to get involved in grassroots aviation.

Paul I 5.jpg

This unique color scheme also included different versions of invasion stripes than "Old Crow". From these two base configurations I will be able to create other color schemes quicker. I will also be taking the Paul I color scheme, making it purple (my wife's favorite color) and adding my wife's name to the nose. When I told her this she smiled and said "How romantic." :rolleyes: Oh well, ya gotta score thoses point when and how you can! lol!

Paul I 1.jpg

Paul I 2.jpg
Note the different color on the bottom/back of the fuselage. I had to reprint that part on a different printer and, no surprise, I got a different color. Something to consider when you decided where to print your plane.

Paul I 3.jpg

Paul I 4.jpg
I tried a version of localfiend's clear canopy and it came out ok. I really think it needs a paper model cockpit when a clear canopy is used. I also edited the blue stripe on the fuse in front of the canopy to make it extend more down the side of the fuse to look more like the full scale.

It is advisable that you download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are not on the skin kits. This is not a beginner build! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method. I would also advise you build a mini P51 before attempting this. I learned much from my first build.

**Please read the Hints and Tips under the pics before printing and building!**

There will be two page sizes for you to print out. An 11X17 and an 8.5X11.

The 11X17 version has less tiled parts and makes for a quicker build. It’s six pages, over 23 meg and available here. Or cut and paste this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysihkxeqkeki61r/FT MM P51 Paul I.pdf?dl=0

The 8.5x11 version has more tiled parts and will take some more pasting together of the sk. It’s six pages, over 23 meg and available here Or cut and paste this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uhoasa0olzs2379/FT MM P51 Paul I 8.5X11.pdf?dl=0

Let me know if you run into any issues with the files. I will also be "tweaking" them from time to time when I find issues but I don't intend to post for every tweak.

Hints and Tips
  • Printing - Please check your Print Dialog box and make sure that under "Page Size & Handling" that the "Actual size" button is checked and NOT the "Fit" button. If "Fit" was chosen it can result in smaller sized prints even when the correct paper size is selected. So far this one tip, if not done, has wasted more time and money than anything else!
  • Again this is not a beginner build! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method.
  • It is advisable that you download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are not on the skin kits.
  • The extra turtle deck - It was the one piece I had the most issue with. The extra non-curved one was a last minute fail safe. In case something went wonky with a build, the builder would have this to use as a backup to custom cut.
  • The horizontal stab - Do not cut out the tabs that engage the fuse on the top (blue) skin. It is unnecessary and will detract from the look.
  • The Wing - I opted to just remove all the paper and only use the skins. I think after the spar is in it will be more than sufficiently strong. Take extra care in trimming the edges where the wing halves come together.
  • The fuselage - Peel off the paper from just one side of the foam.
  • When a piece has two sides covered with skins:
    1. Rough cut one side from the paper
    2. Take an appropriate sized section of foam and peal the paper from both sides
    3. Glue it to the foam
    4. Trim the foam to the skin (art)
    5. Trim the other side of the skin from the paper
    6. Carefully align the second side to the foam
  • The bottom of the fuselage - Take extra care when gluing the two bottom sections into place. Panel lines should line up and the paper on the edges should be flush for a clean look.
  • Sheeting - To keep the color between pieces the same I printed out everything on the same paper - 24lbs bond although 20lbs bond would work as well and save a little weight. For parts that require card stock, I just glue the printed paper skin to a black sheet of the same paper then cut the piece out.
  • Sharpie Touch Ups - Use an appropriate color Sharpie for touch ups.
  • Weathering Tip - Use a silver fine tip Sharpie to simulate paint chipping.
  • Landing Gear - You have several options in the gear and bay area. As a belly lander, cut and glue part of the gear bay doors so it overlaps the wing and fuselage. For a mustang with gear down, cut and glue in the "open bay" graphic, Again overlap the wing and fuse. Use the remaining gear doors to make yourself some killer looking landing gear! Can't wait for someone to do this!
  • Belly Landings - Protect you P51 doing belly landings so it stays awesome looking longer. Using packing tape on the undersides of the fuselage.


The next big thing will be who posts the first “Paul I” flight video! It won’t be me so good luck! Build, fly, and post lots of pics!
 
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Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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This round I decided I wanted to try a clear canopy like the one localfiend has been doing. However I didn't have any inkjet printable transparencies. I did have a box of regular old lazer ones so, I adapted.
I cut out the frame from a printed canopy and glued it (3M77) to the transparency.
Canopy1.jpg

Then proceeded to trim out the transparency leaving small tabs so I could glue it together on the frames. I also score cut the tabs so they would bend easier.
Canopy2.jpg

The finished product.
Canopy3.jpg

My technique needs work. I also have a few ideas on a template so placing cuts is easier. A paper cockpit would put it over the top. :D
 
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SP0NZ

FT CAD Gremlin
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Really amazing work Rasterize. Taking foam board planes to a whole new level. Keep up the great work. I can't wait to see how many of these show up at Flite Fest this year.
 

Rasterize

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Really amazing work Rasterize. Taking foam board planes to a whole new level. Keep up the great work. I can't wait to see how many of these show up at Flite Fest this year.
Thanks Dan! Would have been a whole lot harder without all your work on the plans.

Its beautiful... :applause:
Thanks John!

amazing that is such a nice looking plane makes me want to attempt and fail at one:)
Oh I'm sure you could do this. That and it's to inexpensive make not to try!

Well it's off to the airport and Louisville KY! Hope I see some build picks soon. :)
 

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
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Amazing, I'll have to get these printed off ASAP. I'll also have to get old crow re printed and start on another build because the printed i used was pretty crap. :/

Oh well, I'll try them both with the cockpit.

Quick note, Paul I's cockpit isn't the typical P-51 interior (all beat up and spartan) because the airplane was rebuilt by Cavalier. The interior looks like something out of an old school Cadillac, so I might try re coloring the interior bit in my own.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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Sweet. Hadn't heard of this plane before. A home built P-51 is pretty darn cool.

I like what you did with the canopy. I did something similar on the Gladiator, by gluing paper to the back end. I thought about using paper over the top of the whole thing to add a bit of depth, but there were too many windows I didn't feel like cutting out. :p Looks great and is a good option for those who don't have something to print transparencies.
 

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
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Sweet. Hadn't heard of this plane before. A home built P-51 is pretty darn cool.

Paul I isn't a home built, it was a war time P-51 before it was purchased by the Cavalier company for an overhaul. They added things like a more comfortable cockpit, a slightly different tail design, and a couple other modernization bits that made an overall more comfortable flying experience.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Airhawk - Does living in AZ make FT hot glue builds an issue? if so what do you do to mitigate the glue going soft in all that sunshine? Any build tips for hot weather foam board builds?
 

mrwis@yahoo.com

New member
Very cool Rasterize. I just glued the canopy on my old crow tonight. This design is way cool too. I live 30 miles from eaa in oskosh. Maybe I'll have to take a trip down.
 

akarmy

Member
Hey Rasterize can you check out page 6 of the template? Not sure what happened to the bottom front nose section. Look at the hammerhead checkerboard. Don't think that's quite right.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Hey Rasterize can you check out page 6 of the template? Not sure what happened to the bottom front nose section. Look at the hammerhead checkerboard. Don't think that's quite right.

You mean "Old Crow", "Paul I" or "Bunny"?
I'm guessing Old Crow but correct me if I'm wrong.
Also a picture really is worth a thousand words. :)
 
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akarmy

Member
Sorry, I was referring to Paul I (since that's the thread I posted in) :)

It seems to me to be a leftover from Old Crow that didn't get updated quite right when you posted the Paul I file. I went ahead and built it that way by cutting it down to size since that's the print I had made, but for future it might be nice to update it.

Screen Shot 2016-03-29 at 10.38.13 AM.png
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Sorry, I was referring to Paul I (since that's the thread I posted in) :) It seems to me to be a leftover from Old Crow that didn't get updated quite right when you posted the Paul I file...

Right, I get ya now. It was mentioning the checkerboard that threw me off.
Yeah, that would be an oversight on my part. :black_eyed:
I will get that corrected ASAP. Sorry.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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I checked and the one on Dropbox definitely has some transparency and layering issues. The one I have looks quite different. I'll have to flatten the whole thing and re-upload it. Sorry for the issue.
 

airhawk

Crashing Ace
Airhawk - Does living in AZ make FT hot glue builds an issue? if so what do you do to mitigate the glue going soft in all that sunshine? Any build tips for hot weather foam board builds?

Hey Rasterize,
Sorry about the late reply i haven't been checking all the threads lately.I haven't experienced too many problems with heat but my storch has let go a bit in the past few months.I do the standard gorilla glue and gluing the paper to the foam so it doesn't de laminate but i staple scrap pieces of construction paper to the exposed edges to take some heat away i also layer my builds in tape so even if the glue lets off i can still keep it together.Lately though iv'e been trying to find ways to cool the plane it self instead of just preventing heat.
Hope this answers your question
-Airhawk
 

akarmy

Member
Ok, it's taken awhile to get it done, but here's my Paul I mini Mustang. Thanks to Rasterize for the skin, it looks sweet in the air! I built it with the F pack motor with 6x4.5 prop and an 800x3c battery.

IMG_5202.jpg

I powered up to half throttle or a touch higher and launched it underhand by holding the top of the fuselage over the canopy. It flew smoothly straight out perfectly! Man is this thing fast when you power up to full throttle.

Here's the maiden flight video