FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Nice job! It's been kind of strange. I have been apprehensive since I posted the PDF's for this. What if people had all kinds of issues building it? What if the one I built was just a fluke?
Thanks willsonmann! I now know it can be done....as long as you're a master modeler! lol ;)
But will it fly? :confused:
 

willsonman

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Well, It does not take much mastery to do this. Just being patient and making sure the art is aligned right. Flight? More than likely. How long? TBD ;)
 

willsonman

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Had to remove some motor extension wires last night. The motor was previously used in a 75% polaris. Motor pod installed. I decided just to glue it in. I hate all the stupid skewers and pods. Ailerons were set as well.

I did try the beveling method mentioned above. I folded back the aileron and used my hobby knife to cut the paper away from the foam. Then, I folded the paper back and cut the bevel. I applied glue to beneath the paper and using a squeegee motion at a 45 degree angle, pushed the glue over the joint. It worked but is tricky. The paper I used is not as flexible as the paper supplied on the foam so I did have to take time to make sure it was flat. This was to make sure I had proper deflection.

Oh, and for these tiny models I use cut-outs of the control horns from Milk jugs. Plenty strong enough and bonds to hot glue very well. Easier to cut than ply too ;)

I've got the airplane programmed in my Taranis but still need to connect the Rx and check deflections. Depending on weather, I could have a maiden done this weekend.
 

BridgeInspector

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Couldn't sleep last night so made some progress.
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Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Motor pod installed. I decided just to glue it in. I hate all the stupid skewers and pods. Ailerons were set as well.
The swappable pod is great if your in a pinch money wise. I too prefer to has a more permanent motor mount. Especially when I have hatch/compartment access.

I did try the beveling method mentioned above. I folded back the aileron and used my hobby knife to cut the paper away from the foam. Then, I folded the paper back and cut the bevel. I applied glue to beneath the paper and using a squeegee motion at a 45 degree angle, pushed the glue over the joint. It worked but is tricky. The paper I used is not as flexible as the paper supplied on the foam so I did have to take time to make sure it was flat. This was to make sure I had proper deflection.
This is what I did has well. I'm thinking on using a bow to cut my foam, both parts and bevels. I have seen some which allows you to use the paper as a template without burning the paper. They are slow but you can't beat the cut quality. A small bow (PVC pipe variety) may make bevel cutting with this process a bit easier.

Oh, and for these tiny models I use cut-outs of the control horns from Milk jugs. Plenty strong enough and bonds to hot glue very well. Easier to cut than ply too ;)
Nice tip. May have to add this to the 1st post.

Couldn't sleep last night so made some progress.
Looking good BI! Are your prints inkjet or toner?
 

willsonman

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I guess another option is to use an iron to melt the foam for the bevel. Then follow-up with hot glue to secure it. Just thought of that.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Started cutting parts last night. I should be applying the art this evening.

Are you applying the rough cut art to foam first, cutting it to shape, then cutting the opposite side art to shape and then applying to the foam?
 

tyoho

Member
ironed bevels

You can iron the hinge bevels also.
It's a little tricky, so I'd recommend doing some practice on scrap scrap pieces.
For the bevels, do the hinge line cut and break it open, then lay the part down on the edge of your table or a wood block with a straight sharp edge. fold the control surface down and line it up with the edge of your support and use that as a guide for the iron as you form the bevel. Depending on the shape of the part, you might want to put a ironed bevel on both sides of the cut. I still do a bit of hot glue along the joint anyway just for safety.

I've been meaning to do an updated how to video on ironing the edges and adding sharp tapered trailing edges and ironed bevels. If I don't get to it soon, I'll try to at least get some pictures of what I'm talking about
 

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
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Are you applying the rough cut art to foam first, cutting it to shape, then cutting the opposite side art to shape and then applying to the foam?

I'm cutting the part out like normal and then I'll be applying the art. I'll de-paper the foam where necessary (fuselage, wings, etc..) and glue the skin on. Were you doing something different?
 

willsonman

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I only cut the fuselage first. The rest was using Steven's suggestion. Makes at least one side super easy for alignment (NONE!)
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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I only cut the fuselage first. The rest was using Steven's suggestion. Makes at least one side super easy for alignment (NONE!)

For the fuselage, I only cut out the paper parts of the fuse where I need to align them up. Glued them together with white glue first. Gave it some time to dry a bit and then followed the process above only with the paper peeled off of one side of the foam.
 

willsonman

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So, I'm scheduled to meet a new member of our club at the field tomorrow for a safety briefing. All my programming is set and she is ready for maiden. I could not fit the 1300 pack in with out cutting. I'll fly with the 850 and see how she does. It has to sit ALLLL the way forward. The 1300 would be nice if she can handle the weight. If the wing is super gusty I may just go for it and hope for the best.
 

BridgeInspector

Flite Test Groupie
Elevator pealed up easily to add skewer and cut bevels. Then I decided to taper all exposed edges as well.

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Cut the edges with a #11 blade held at an angle.
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Then add some hot glue, wait for it to start to cool and get tacky. Them squeeze them shut quickly while rubbing fingers together to rid them of extra glue. Work in small sections, 2-3". Similar techniques as on NerdNics planes with tapered wings.
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Not perfect but looks good still.

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I did the rudder and wings to match.
 
Guys I need a little help here. I have a couple of questions

If I rough cut out the art and stick it to the foam - either with the paper removed or not what glue to you recommend ?

Once stuck to the foam - cutting the outline is easy enough, but how do I know where to make the score cuts in the wings for example ? I have tried to compare the art with the original plans and I cannot see a line on the art that would correspond to the red score cut line on the plans. Am I missing something here ?