FT Racer - BUILD (FT Slinger)

[.XxBensterxX.]

I loved that video. Suggestion for Flite Test; I would make more Speed Build kits. I know you mentioned how hard they are to get made into the store and get them out to your loyal followers, but could make your website way more active along with more forum blogs being posted. Just a thought, I bet u guys can because you are great builders Anyway could you recommend a 4 channel airplane for someone coming off a 3 channel. Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Craftydan]

Anyway could you recommend a 4 channel airplane for someone coming off a 3 channel. Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Benster,

If you've mastered a non-self-stablizing RET (Rudder/Elevator/Throttle) or a Bank & Yank (Aileron/Elevator/Throttle), you might consider building a Baby Blender or Spitfire as a full house (4 channel) intermediate trainer.

Both are fine airframes for transitioning to full house controls, however, unlike many 4 channel novice trainers, they won't self stabliize quickly enough to fix itself if you leave it in a poor attitude. If you haven't flown a plane with neutral stability, you might try the Delta or Versa first. They're still 3 channel, but you have to get used to keeping the wings level since the plane won't do it for you. It's a good skill to learn, and easier on a bank & yank plane.

 

[hanggar_mungil]

i build this plane and almost done, i use 3s 2200 mah, 60a HK ESC, Turnigy 2826/6 2200kv
i have some propeller like picture above, what the best propeller?

from left: Tri Blade Props GF 7035, EP Prop RD 9x4.7 GWS, GWS EP8040 8x4, APC 7x5, APC 6x4

any body use turnigy 9x? can share 9x setup for this plane?

regard,

 

[Craftydan]

i build this plane and almost done, i use 3s 2200 mah, 60a HK ESC, Turnigy 2826/6 2200kv
i have some propeller like picture above, what the best propeller?

from left: Tri Blade Props GF 7035, EP Prop RD 9x4.7 GWS, GWS EP8040 8x4, APC 7x5, APC 6x4

any body use turnigy 9x? can share 9x setup for this plane?

regard,

All of these props exceed the prop's max RPMs for this motor on 3S -- at WOT, they'll all flutter (for the non-specialty APC's the RPM limit is 145000/diameter, and GWS props are generally not as high quality).

The 6x4 is *close enough* that it's probably OK -- It only gets close at WOT on a topped off battery and power draw won't be much higher than the 5x5 recommended (but expect at least 15% higher draw at WOT).

 

[hanggar_mungil]

thanks Dan,

does not reduce performance if i add landing wheel like FT Duster?

 

[Craftydan]

thanks Dan,

does not reduce performance if i add landing wheel like FT Duster?

Any added drag will reduce performance. It's a fact of aviation life.

The question is, is it worth the drag? You gain the ability to taxi out and take off from smooth ground, and the landing gear will protect the prop on a smooth landing. For a well executed belly landing the prop should be fine, but landing gear will serve as one more layer of protection -- it's up to you.

 

[pcar]

I think your models and your videos are awsome, well done.
I just started building the FT Racer (my first build) but I think I may have goofed... The plans say the Total wingspan is 29.5In (750mm), the printing may have scaled wrong but I am at 40In total wingspan. Where the plans say Total wingspan is that just the 1/2 wing or the total wingspan (left and right wings)?
Each of my wings are 20In in length so either they're too long by 2.5In each or their too short by 9.5 Which is it?

 

[xuzme720]

It sounds like your prints are on the large size. Total wingspan is the whole wing (both halves) measured together. So, each wing should be just under 15 inches. If yours are closer to 20 inches for each wing, your plans are definitely too large. It can be built that large but any slots or cut/folds will have to be modified to match the foam thickness.

 

[michelp29]

Hi all,

Here is my own version of the canopy for the FT Slinger :
instead of drawing eyes on the paperboard, I cut ping-pong balls and hot-glued them on the paper, then drawn black points on them

 

[T-Richard]

HELP!

Ok so a few weeks ago I complete my FT Racer ( shiny black one a few pages back) I tried to fly with a weak park 400 950kv and it will not fly. Too weak! Now I never planned to use that motor in the first place and have been waiting on a few options from RC timer since august... I may have to give up on ever seeing those two motors...

So now, I built mine a bit heavy and am getting better at flying so I am looking forward to flying a faster airplane. My questions are what are good motor options in perhaps the 70g range, or a good quality 100g motor. I want to stick to 3s but get good speed.

My original plan was a 2200kv 50g with 6x4. But that's lost in the ether now and I am thinking I should go bigger.

Thoughts?

 

[jackedman]

I Plan on using a .10 supertigre motor
http://hobbyhobby.com/store/product/265947/.10-Brushless-Motor/

Ive used it in other planes that are a little bit heaver and they fly great and its cheap

 

[Trippey]

I need help determining the correct motor and prop for this plane.

Is this motor good for this plane?
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26820__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_26A_1200kv_286w_USA_Warehouse_.html

Other components:
-8x4 Apc Propeller
-3s 1100mah LiPo
-18a Speed Controller

 

[oatman]

My first scratch build!

Mine came out at 1000mm wingspan as others have mentioned. It has been suggested that this is because the printing scale is wrong at printing... But everything lined up perfectly. My power pod fits perfectly as does the motor mount. The folds all worked perfectly for the foam... It sure seems that 1000mm is the correct scale. Especially since the cm and inch scales on page 1 of the tiled plans agreed perfectly with my machinist rule.

Has anyone actually built his to the designated 700-ish scale listed in the plans? Are the speed build kits at the 700-ish scale?

This would also explain why my AUW is at 835g. My up painted but varnished airframe is at 454g. My power pod w40 A ESC, Rx and 77g motor and 3S 2200 mAh Lipo comes in at 385g or so. With the listed AUW around 600g or so, even accounting for the larger motor ESC and lipo mine seemed to be a pig and not the power to weight I planned for... But still just about 150W per pound so no slouch...

What all up weight are peeps coming in at?

Anyways it was fun and I plan the maiden for on the morrow... Pix and more soon... And eventually with paint!

 

[Foam Addict]

I need help determining the correct motor and prop for this plane.

Is this motor good for this plane?
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26820__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_26A_1200kv_286w_USA_Warehouse_.html

Other components:
-8x4 Apc Propeller
-3s 1100mah LiPo
-18a Speed Controller

From FT spitfire experience, I would say that that would work fine, but it wont be terribly fast. However, it will fly lighter and be far more aerobatic than most of the other builds out there.

 

[Blackbeltrrf]

I had this posted in Swappables section but Here is a maiden of my Rip Slinger. I love this plane.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=f9LDhis7FqU

 

[Trippey]

From FT spitfire experience, I would say that that would work fine, but it wont be terribly fast. However, it will fly lighter and be far more aerobatic than most of the other builds out there.

Do you think that adding a bigger prop like a 8x6 would boost the speed?

 

[Jaxx]

Do you think that adding a bigger prop like a 8x6 would boost the speed?

Trippey,

That motor should be perfect for this plane. An 8x6 would boost the speed also. For the most part, 8x6 props are what I use on all my planes. The speed is decent, especially on a down-wind pass.

 

[Craftydan]

on prop size, increasing the first number (diameter) will *strongly* increase thrust, but only slightly affect speed. increasing the second number (pitch) will dramatically increase the speed, with only a slight increase in thrust.

This assumes the thrust is enough to overcome drag -- if the drag force slows the plane down too much a higher pitch prop will actually perform worse, since props performs best when moving at their designed speed (implied by the high pitch #). It also assumes the motor isn't bogging down under too heavy of a load. an 8x4 prop is easier to throw than an 8x6 -- if the motor is just right at 8x4, the 8x6 might be too much and the motor will spin more slowly, costing you in max speed.

but enough theory . . . what about your motor? The NTM 28-26A 1200KV, according to the specs, on a 3S pack and the 8x6 is pulling 13A -- *Well* under the spec'ed 17A max. So yes, it should give you 40-50% more speed, assuming the prop isn't too narrow to overcome the drag at higher speeds. other options?
- going to an 8x8 should be safe and might nearly double the speed from an 8x4.5.
- jumping up to a 9x4.7 should be about the same draw as the 8x6, but that won't get you much more speed over the 8x4.5.
- Jumping up to a 9x6 is iffy -- depends on the drag on the airframe. You *should* have enough head room on max current left to swing this prop, but if the 8x6 is performing well, the 9x6 won't beat the 8x6. if the 8x6 is struggling under the increased drag, you'll get significantly more thrust and closer to that 50% more speed.

Hard to say if any steeper pitch than a 9x6 or 8x8 will over-current this motor, and if you want to try one, I'd suggest using a wattmeter on a bench to make sure.

 

[Trippey]

Okay, thanks Foam Addict, Jaxx, and Craftydan for the help. I really appreciate it.

 

[Lonker]

How many sheets of a 500mmx700mm Foamboard will I need for this approx?