FT Racer maiden flights

[veshij]

@Merv on my transmitter I have 2 antennas covered in plastic cases:
http://valuehobby.valuehobby.netdna...f78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/9/5933-6.jpg
so i don't think it might be the case.
I just finished the rebuild after the crash, I placed the antennas outside of the power pod and attached them properly, so they shouldn't be covered by anything.
As well I configured the failsafe as was suggested by @Arcfyre, so will try to fly it this weekend again.
I'll try to follow @Bricks advice to use more throttle in turns, let's see how it goes!

 

[Merv]

I have 2 antennas covered in plastic cases:

Yes, your antennas are not what I was talking about. You should still put the plastic parts (the active element) of yours at 90 degrees. I thought yours looked like this one. If you put that little wire at the end (the active element) in a U shape, you will cut your range. I don't care what you do with the black part (coaxial portion).

I've also had the coaxial part of an antenna get damaged in a crash. Right where they enter the case, as soon as you take the Rx case apart you can see the damage. I've had success in cutting off the damaged end and solder it back to the board.

 

[Hai-Lee]

Just before you launch the bird again I would recommend that you drill a few ventilation holes in the firewall to help the ESC keep cool.

Also move the Rx back in the plane as far as the ESC to Rx lead will allow. NEVER place the Rx in the powerpod as it is just asking for all sort of problems.

The Rx pins should face towards the ESC in case the Motor Etc get ripped off in a crash. This is so that WHEN they, (Battery, Motor and ESC), do depart the remainder of the fuselage in a crash the ESC will unplug cleanly and not try to drag the pins on the Rx back through the Rx itself.

With the Rx as far back in the Fuselage as the ESC lead will allow safely I then position my antennas at 90 degrees to each other. where the wing is removable I fit them to the sides of the fuselage, (one leaning forward at 45 degrees and the other leaning backwards at 45 degrees). If space is tight I fit the antennas on the outside of the fuselage and if there is plenty of room on the inside.

Where the wing is fixed permanently I locate my antennas on the wing upper or lower surface with both angled backwards at 45 degrees to the fuselage side. Since adopting the antenna placements listed I have NOT had a single LoS (Loss of Signal) episode) whereas before I would crash one flight in three because of the loss of signal due to obstruction and polarisation issues.

Just what works for me!

Have fun!

 

[sprzout]

Yes, your antennas are not what I was talking about. You should still put the plastic parts (the active element) of yours at 90 degrees. I thought yours looked like this one. If you put that little wire at the end (the active element) in a U shape, you will cut your range. I don't care what you do with the black part (coaxial portion).

I've also had the coaxial part of an antenna get damaged in a crash. Right where they enter the case, as soon as you take the Rx case apart you can see the damage. I've had success in cutting off the damaged end and solder it back to the board.

I tried soldering the antennas back together, but discovered they failed after 2-3 flights. So I found that I could buy replacement antennas for the receivers (at least, the Spektrum receivers, I could), unscrew one screw, pop the plate off, and use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the old antenna off. Once off, I could then pop the new one on.

 

[veshij]

Thank you all!
This weekend I was able to fly it ~20 minutes.
The one thing - with a recommended setup (EMax GT2215/10 (1100kV) and 10 x 4.5 Slow Fly prop) it was underpowered - I had to fly it most of the time with full throttle, otherwise it felt really unstable.
Going to try it with 10x6, maybe it'll be better.

 

[d8veh]

Be careful. I think it's about 21 amps with a 10x4.5. A 10x 6 could melt your ESC. You need to measure the current to confirm that it's safe or use a 40A ESC. I haven't measured with a 10x6, but to give you some idea of what happens, going from a 6x3 to a 6x4 on a smaller motor increased the current from 18A to 24.7A. That's a 37% increase!

 

[veshij]

I tried to use prop calculator here: https://www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php?...st=1.0&diameter=10&pitch=4.7&blades=2&speed=0

And it shows ~23Amps peak for 10x6 for that engine

 

[DamoRC]

Thank you all!
This weekend I was able to fly it ~20 minutes.
The one thing - with a recommended setup (EMax GT2215/10 (1100kV) and 10 x 4.5 Slow Fly prop) it was underpowered - I had to fly it most of the time with full throttle, otherwise it felt really unstable.
Going to try it with 10x6, maybe it'll be better.

This surprises me - The C-pack should have no problem pulling this plane and, although not a floaty plane, it shouldn't need to be flown at full throttle. Do you know what your final all up weight was on the build ? You are running 3S, right?

DamoRC

 

[veshij]

Yep, 3s with 2800mah battery, not sure about the weight though, but as I used pre-cut set it should be reasonable.

 

[PoorManRC]

Yep, 3s with 2800mah battery, not sure about the weight though, but as I used pre-cut set it should be reasonable.

I use a 2800 mAh 3S in my Axial Wraith!!! That might be a bit hefty for a Foamie....
Do you know what the Battery itself weighs?

 

[veshij]

According to the amazon: Battery Weight: 212.1g / 7.48 oz
I've chosen it based on the recommendation here: https://store.flitetest.com/flite-t...electric-airplane-kit-1016mm-flt-1001/p673665 (Battery: 3S 11.1V LiPo 1800-3000mAh)