FT Slow Stick S250

Foamforce

Well-known member
I guess this is gonna be a swift stick, especially since I'll be using 9g servos...

The motor apparently weighs about 14g more, and 8g more for the servos, so +22g. That adds about 9% to the all-up weight of 250g. It won’t be Swift, but maybe a Slowish Stick? 😀
 

LitterBug

Troll Spammer
I had troubles getting the old used 2206 to mount up. The bolt holes are small and my bolt heads are large. I may have to mod the motor mount as others have done for the arrow shaft.

IMG_20230518_090511403.jpg


Now to cut out the foamboard.

LB
 
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Linkster

New member
Good suggestion, but it looks like none of my local libraries do it. One of them apparently tried out several years ago but stopped. Probably difficult for them to keep it running.

I saw somebody post a link to the Ender 3 Pro on sale for $200. Is that a good printer for what we mostly do here?
The guys at the public library in Xenia OH, suggested getting an Ender 3v2 as a noob.

I fired up my Ender 3v2 and printed the parts.

It was actually the first prince that I ever did on the second hand Ender.

Perfect prints...then I yeeted the the printer settings file that the last owner had dialed in.

It was a good way to force myself to to learn everything about calibrating a 3D printer.

I also have an auto leveler added on, but if you know how to level a printer it's not that bad and there's ways you can dial in the leveling before you print.

Back to the parts...they required a lot of filing to fit the arrow in... I think the four channel servo tray broke because it was flimsy AF.

I'm frankly building a new set of all of the parts except for the motor mount and wing holders in Fusion 3D.

I'm taking off a bunch of unneeded weight and adding it back into where it's useful.

I'm happy to share my stl's when I get it done but I can't say when.

I'm also adding 4-in balloon wheels to make my slow stick a bush plane...because adding big wheels to anything makes it a bush plane, no?
 

Linkster

New member
Besides enlarging the diameter of the hole to 8.2mm (8.3mm on the tail part) I also made another piece to help support the battery and I printed two esc holders. One for the esc and another for the receiver.

I printed everything in Polymaker PolyLite LW-PLA. The pre-foamed LW-PLA with the same settings I use for PLA. I haven't cut out the foam yet, but I'm thinking I'm going to go for an "Ultra" Slow Stick look. I might even put some LEDs in it.

View attachment 237188
View attachment 237189
How much lighter is the LW PLA vs PLA and how's the strength and durability compare?
 

Linkster

New member
No the bad news.. Printer does NOT have the silent motherboard so that's a few more bucks to shell out, but the print quality is there. Ordered the new motherboard, better springs and CR Touch. Should be all upgraded in a few days depending upon shipping.
Don't forget the direct drive extruder, if your spending the money on the other upgrades...
 

Foamforce

Well-known member
Having trouble getting the slow stick to balance without adding a lot of weight or move the wing pretty far back. Any ideas? Using the recommended FT motor

That’s the nature of the plane. The wing goes further back than it looks like it ought to. The tail is fairly heavy and the motor and electronics are fairly light, so the whole package wants to be tail heavy. I noticed that WalMart had some slightly longer arrows and that would help by moving the battery and motor a couple inches further forward.
 

luvmy40

Elite member
Had some decent weather this morning so I took the Slow Stick out for the maiden flight. I thought I had the CG pretty good. Just slightly nose heavy. It flew like it was way tail heavy. I managed to keep it up and trim it, kind'a. Any throttle change had an immediate effect on attitude and it porposed badly when throttling up. I had not shimmed the motor at all and I made no modifications to the printed parts. At the end, I nosed in from a fairly low altitude and snapped the front wing mount at the base. It's fixable. I am going to see if I can get the wing mounts unglued( I used a little too much CA me thinks) and move the wing back an inch or so. I'll also add a little down and right thrust to the motor mount with washers.

I was flying on an F-Pack motor with a 2S 650 battery. The little time I had actually in controlled flight makes me think this will a great plane for getting my grandson into 3 channel from his EZ Freighter start.

I may just start new.
 

Aslansmonkey

Well-known member
Finally got a chance to maiden my Slow Stick, now that the water has dried up enough at the local park I fly at.
In this short video of the maiden I've handed the controls to my 30 year old son who has almost NO flying experience. Ok, he crashed my tenet into a tree last year but that's about it.

I build this as a trainer for him and others to use, and it looks like it will do an excellent job at that.

 

scottyorr

New member
I'm almost done with my S250. This is not my first scratch built, but It's my first done from Flite Test plans. Looking for some hints/help on joining the wing halves. I've pre bent my camber (but not fixed it yet). I'm unsure how to know how much camber to fix before gluing the halves together. If I just manually hold it while trying to fit them together, it looks like the dihedral is too much (my cuts are accurate per plans). Any help would be appreciated. Like what is the flat linear distance between leading and trailing edge after wing is built?
 

LitterBug

Troll Spammer
Can anybody share the assembly dimension, please? Any idea of the arrow weight?
Thanks
The dimensions and weight are going to depend on where you source the arrows from. The beauty of this design is that it is super simple to move the weight forward and back to get the CG correct,
 

soareyes

New member
I'm almost done with my S250. This is not my first scratch built, but It's my first done from Flite Test plans. Looking for some hints/help on joining the wing halves. I've pre bent my camber (but not fixed it yet). I'm unsure how to know how much camber to fix before gluing the halves together. If I just manually hold it while trying to fit them together, it looks like the dihedral is too much (my cuts are accurate per plans). Any help would be appreciated. Like what is the flat linear distance between leading and trailing edge after wing is built?
Here is how I did the camber. This method insured that both wing panels had exactly the same chamber and shape. I made a temporary spar out of a piece of scrap foam board that was 20mm tall and two layers thick, and runs a little more than the length of one wing panel. I taped this to the bottom of the wing panel between the third and fourth camber folds. When you put this down on a flat table (right side up) and push down the leading and trailing edges to the table top, you get the 20mm camber the full length of the wing. I picked 20mm just because it looked about right and as it turned out, the wing flies great. Fix the camber by running a bead of hot glue down each fold line in the regular FliteTest method. I did one line at a time starting with the rear most one, and held the wing leading and trailing edges down with my arms until the glue hardened. You can probably do all 4 lines at the same time if you are fast with the glue gun. Just be sure to hold the full length leading and trailing edges down on the table so you get a nice evenly cambered wing. My flat linear distance between the leading and trailing edges is 225mm.

To join the panels, I propped the tips of the wings up equally until the dihedral angle matched the 3d printed wing support. I had to sand the foam board slightly to get the joint right as there was a gap in the center between the two wing halves. I hot glued the wings together at the right angle, held till hard, and reinforced the joint with a layer of clear packing tape top and bottom. I have at least 25 flights on it and the wing has held together well.

Hope this helps!
 

scottyorr

New member
Here is how I did the camber. This method insured that both wing panels had exactly the same chamber and shape. I made a temporary spar out of a piece of scrap foam board that was 20mm tall and two layers thick, and runs a little more than the length of one wing panel. I taped this to the bottom of the wing panel between the third and fourth camber folds. When you put this down on a flat table (right side up) and push down the leading and trailing edges to the table top, you get the 20mm camber the full length of the wing. I picked 20mm just because it looked about right and as it turned out, the wing flies great. Fix the camber by running a bead of hot glue down each fold line in the regular FliteTest method. I did one line at a time starting with the rear most one, and held the wing leading and trailing edges down with my arms until the glue hardened. You can probably do all 4 lines at the same time if you are fast with the glue gun. Just be sure to hold the full length leading and trailing edges down on the table so you get a nice evenly cambered wing. My flat linear distance between the leading and trailing edges is 225mm.

To join the panels, I propped the tips of the wings up equally until the dihedral angle matched the 3d printed wing support. I had to sand the foam board slightly to get the joint right as there was a gap in the center between the two wing halves. I hot glued the wings together at the right angle, held till hard, and reinforced the joint with a layer of clear packing tape top and bottom. I have at least 25 flights on it and the wing has held together well.

Hope this helps!

This is great information - Thanks!
(I wonder if a tiny bit more camber would eliminate the gap...)
 

JDSnavely

Member
Here is how I did the camber. This method insured that both wing panels had exactly the same chamber and shape. I made a temporary spar out of a piece of scrap foam board that was 20mm tall and two layers thick, and runs a little more than the length of one wing panel. I taped this to the bottom of the wing panel between the third and fourth camber folds. When you put this down on a flat table (right side up) and push down the leading and trailing edges to the table top, you get the 20mm camber the full length of the wing. I picked 20mm just because it looked about right and as it turned out, the wing flies great. Fix the camber by running a bead of hot glue down each fold line in the regular FliteTest method. I did one line at a time starting with the rear most one, and held the wing leading and trailing edges down with my arms until the glue hardened. You can probably do all 4 lines at the same time if you are fast with the glue gun. Just be sure to hold the full length leading and trailing edges down on the table so you get a nice evenly cambered wing. My flat linear distance between the leading and trailing edges is 225mm.

To join the panels, I propped the tips of the wings up equally until the dihedral angle matched the 3d printed wing support. I had to sand the foam board slightly to get the joint right as there was a gap in the center between the two wing halves. I hot glued the wings together at the right angle, held till hard, and reinforced the joint with a layer of clear packing tape top and bottom. I have at least 25 flights on it and the wing has held together well.

Hope this helps!
I just "winged" it my first time (Sorry) and it didn't fly well. After crashing many times I did a throw test with my son. It was a wonder that it could fly at all!!! It was so bad I decided to rebuild though I did get at least one flight out of it after bending the wing tips so it would fly straight. With the new plane, I built the wing similar to you using a 1/2" doll rod I had sitting around as the mold to get an even shape for the whole wing. Then glued the fold lines and held till cooled. Then I laid 1/2 wing flat and proped up the other at the dihedral angle. Added hot glue in the gap and let cool. Wing looks much better. I will do an unpowered glide test this time before flying to be sure it goes straight and to confirm the CG!!
 

scottyorr

New member
I had several 2mm x 50mm carbon rods on hand for my landing gear, so I cut it in half. Each landing gear length is 25mm. It seemed like a good length with plenty of prop clearance. I took some wire, bent it and used CA glue and floss to attach it to the carbon rods for the wheels. I used heat shrink tubing to tidy everything up.

Ricky
25mm is about 1 inch. Are you sure?