C'mon! you can do it!
FT SPITFIRE
- Thread starter FASTCRASHER
- Start date
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Flynn
Member
Jaxx, I used the painters tape. One tip, pull off a piece and stick it to your pants. I was wearing jeans, pull tape piece off your pants. Do that like 3 times and then stick it to your cutting board. Cut your pattern, and then stick it to your plane.
I painted mine green first then masked it off for the brown color. I would do the lighter color first.
I painted mine green first then masked it off for the brown color. I would do the lighter color first.
Acrylic seems to work best thinned to flow through the airbrush. You can use water for thinning but Chad has recommended windex, from tips on the forums. I used it also and it seems to work well. I rushed mine (rain was coming)and put too much paint on too fast, so I had some runs. Before I got impatient, it was really working well! It still looks ok, just not as nice as I know I can do.
808aerosquadron
Member
DogLover -
Also check out Cybermodeler Online: http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/spitfire/spitfire_profile02.shtml .
Blenderite
Professional Crash Pilot
Thanks for the links 808. I now have some stuff to work with.
I ended up using tongue depressors on the outside of the plane, since my internal supports where already glued in. Just used a small square though, seems like it will be a lot tougher. Kinda surprised the Flite Test guys didn't include anything about this. They crash often enough! They should know!!! lol
Also, I am putting on landing gear, since I have a lot of really short grass and asphalt around me. I plan on having the tail wheel connected either to the rudder or to the servo that moves the rudder, so I can steer easily on the ground.
One more thing. It is kinda a pain to remove the power pod, cause I have to remove the wing to remove the servo extensions so I can take the power pod out! I have never seen a FT video about how to wire all your wires and stuff for the power pods. Any tips?
I ended up using tongue depressors on the outside of the plane, since my internal supports where already glued in. Just used a small square though, seems like it will be a lot tougher. Kinda surprised the Flite Test guys didn't include anything about this. They crash often enough! They should know!!! lol
Also, I am putting on landing gear, since I have a lot of really short grass and asphalt around me. I plan on having the tail wheel connected either to the rudder or to the servo that moves the rudder, so I can steer easily on the ground.
One more thing. It is kinda a pain to remove the power pod, cause I have to remove the wing to remove the servo extensions so I can take the power pod out! I have never seen a FT video about how to wire all your wires and stuff for the power pods. Any tips?
Flynn
Member
Believe it or not I used Lowes rattle cans. The Valspar brand. I was thinking that I needed Flat paint but they only had Satin in the colors I wanted. I was really happy with the way it came out. I minwaxed it first of course. I did airbrush some stripes on the Blood Wonder and for the airbrush I use the Tamiya paint from my local hobby store.
The decals were from Hobbyking. Their set for the Durafly Spitfire http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...arine_Spitfire_Mk_24_Replacement_Sticker.html
I wish the quality was better. Next one I'll try painting them or the printable ones. I haven't tried the "print your own" decals, don't know how that works
I'll see if I can post a picture . . .
(woohoo! 100 posts, lol)
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NewZee
Member
I printed my own decal designs off my printer at home, put clear tape on the show side, and then cut out the shape with scissors, sprayed 3M adhesive on theback side and stuck them on worked great!
You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the great information. I'm taking lots of notes and will be applying some of these ideas to my future builds.
DogLover,
I had some really long servo extension in my first Spitfire, so it allowed me to pull the power pod out through the front of the plane and connect/disconnect it. I really disliked having to constantly remove the wing, as the tension from the rubber bands was causing the foam to buckle. The drawback to long extensions is all the excess wire that is in the plane when the power pod is installed. This is one of the reasons I decided to build one with a non-removable wing and non-removable power pod. I plan to cut and form some 1” insulation foam from Lowes to make rounded part of the fuselage, right above the power pod. It will be a single block of foam that runs from the nose to the front of the cockpit. This is where I got the idea (post #6): http://forum.flitetest.com/showthre...ane-i-have-Build&p=65247&viewfull=1#post65247. What I'm going to do differently is make a section of that solid foam block removable. It will be held in place with magnets like many of the canopies on HK models (see picture below). I will be able to access the power pod by simple removing the section of fuselage right above it. I am also making a modified FT power pod. The side walls will be about 2” tall, with no tabs, and the firewall will mount flush with the top. That will leave a gap directly under the firewall, allowing air to flow through the power pod. Since the power pod will be deeper, than the original FT version, it will allow me to easily fit the battery inside it. I know it's probably hard to visualize, I will post pics when it's done.
DogLover,
I had some really long servo extension in my first Spitfire, so it allowed me to pull the power pod out through the front of the plane and connect/disconnect it. I really disliked having to constantly remove the wing, as the tension from the rubber bands was causing the foam to buckle. The drawback to long extensions is all the excess wire that is in the plane when the power pod is installed. This is one of the reasons I decided to build one with a non-removable wing and non-removable power pod. I plan to cut and form some 1” insulation foam from Lowes to make rounded part of the fuselage, right above the power pod. It will be a single block of foam that runs from the nose to the front of the cockpit. This is where I got the idea (post #6): http://forum.flitetest.com/showthre...ane-i-have-Build&p=65247&viewfull=1#post65247. What I'm going to do differently is make a section of that solid foam block removable. It will be held in place with magnets like many of the canopies on HK models (see picture below). I will be able to access the power pod by simple removing the section of fuselage right above it. I am also making a modified FT power pod. The side walls will be about 2” tall, with no tabs, and the firewall will mount flush with the top. That will leave a gap directly under the firewall, allowing air to flow through the power pod. Since the power pod will be deeper, than the original FT version, it will allow me to easily fit the battery inside it. I know it's probably hard to visualize, I will post pics when it's done.
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Blenderite
Professional Crash Pilot
Hmm. That is a good idea. I may look into doing that. Thanks!
Flynn
Member
That looks great!
Imprez
Member
That is a great idea, I will try using the same method om my next build! This time i used a combination of spray paint and painting by hand with a brush. I am quite happy with the result but it was quite time consuming. Here's a few pics of my Spit in the field on a misty autumn morning here in Sweden:
Blenderite
Professional Crash Pilot
Whats the difference between an 8x4 and a 8x4e?
8x4 is a prop size -- a generic designation giving diameter and a general idea of speed.
8x4e is a prop size and type. that e at the end means it's designed for general electric planes and a fairly rigid prop. they're are several others that are common -- ones I've run into:
SF (slow fly -- softer prop only meant to run at low RPM)
F (folding -- for powered gliders)
P (pusher -- prop is backwards to be run in a pusher config)
R (reversed -- prop is backwards to be run as a counter-rotating tractor)
There's bound to be others, and might even be a bit of variation between mfrs.
to answer what you're getting at -- which I should buy -- It's hard to say. It depends on the undesignated prop's manufacturer. If it's the same, there's a good chance it'll be a general prop suitable for both electric and gas engines, and therefor will be far more sturdy . . . and heavy. you'll also have issues mounting it to an electric motor from hub thickness. If it's a diffrent manufacturer, it's hard to tell -- if they only make electric props, it's just what they call their all-around prop.
Imprez
Member
Thanks! Yeah the colors are ok, I had hoped the blue would come out a bit more towards grey but that is maybe nitpicking a little
Plane markings FT - D is a homage to Flite Test and David who designed the plane.Since Flite Test crew likes big spinner I thought I go BIG, hehe. Pipes are from an old Guillows P-51 kit but could just as easily have been made from a jagged piece of foamboard.
This is my first build except a couple of Guillows rubber band balsa planes I built decades ago. You got to love the FT designs. Learned to fly this summer and the Spit is still in one piece, go figure
Blenderite
Professional Crash Pilot
Good to know. Thanks! Someone needs to try making a flexible prop, so it doesn't break it you crash!
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Problem with a flexable prop is it flexes when the air pushes against it -- undoing what it's there for. A well made SF prop will be pretty bendy and sustain a hit w/o damage, but aren't great for generating much power or speed. A poorly made SF prop is typically even more flexable, but also tend to be fragile and break under a stern gaze.
NewZee
Member
Thanks! Yeah the colors are ok, I had hoped the blue would come out a bit more towards grey but that is maybe nitpicking a little
Since Flite Test crew likes big spinner I thought I go BIG, hehe. Pipes are from an old Guillows P-51 kit but could just as easily have been made from a jagged piece of foamboard.
This is my first build except a couple of Guillows rubber band balsa planes I built decades ago. You got to love the FT designs. Learned to fly this summer and the Spit is still in one piece, go figure
Absolutley Beautiful! I like the spinner (what size) , the prop looks a little smaller than what I use (9X6), what size is it?
