5g servos work fine. That is what is included in the recommended electronics kits for this plane.
FT Tiny Trainer - BUILD
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5g servos work fine. That is what is included in the recommended electronics kits for this plane.
wtfbubbles
Junior Member
I've got a couple 4.3g servos for elevator and rudder.. they work great! Then again I'm very much a noob and don't fly very aggressive.
Those servos are capable of folding the wings, so I'd say they are adequate! :black_eyed:
Jason Lavender
Junior Member
I just built a wing for my tiny trainer and the airfoil is a bit off. Am I able to still fly the airplane, or do I need to redo the wing?
First off, WELCOME TO THE FAMILY!
Now airfoil, how bad is it off? Of course it will fly. Might be in a circle, or fly in to the ground. But, I will fly. Just for learning sake, I would test glide it. Just add enough nose weight to balance out and hand toss it to see what happens.
Few Questions
Thanks
- Can I use a 20 amp ESC with the emax mt1806 and turnigy 2S 800mah lipo?
- Also if i do use a 12 amp ESC, does it need to have BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) same electronics as above.
- Also does anyone know where I can get spare shafts for emax MT1806.
- Also does anyone know what is the minimum and maximum charge for the turnigy2S 800mah lipo.: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...C_Lipo_Pack_Parkzone_Compatible_PKZ1032_.html
- also what is discharge 20, it is one of the specs for the battery
Thanks
Check out the beginner series. It makes better sense of a lot of the stuff you need to learn when you start out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOziFzntXq4&list=PL6IuSFWz4ktvupu_gxw1vn-sjBGOkJFHV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOziFzntXq4&list=PL6IuSFWz4ktvupu_gxw1vn-sjBGOkJFHV
1. Yes you can, although it's a little heavier than necessary.
2. Yes it needs a BEC, but most ESCs come with a BEC included. Both 12A and 20A BLHeli ESCs have what you need built right in.
3. Don't know about spare shafts. Haven't needed them yet, but the entire motor is about $13 delivered. Parts may be available from http://www.emaxmodel.com/.
4. Min and Max charges are standard for LiPo batts. Max voltage per cell is 4.2V and Minimum is 3.0V.
5. Discharge rate is a rating based on the size of the pack. It literally implies 20 x Capacity, which for an 800mAh is 16A. This means that the battery is rated to deliver 16,000 mAh (16A) maximum as long as battery power is available to support it. Battery life will theoretically be 3 minutes (1 Hour/20) at this rate, although it will be longer as Amperage can't be sustained at 16A for the life of the battery.
Just ordered motor, servo pack and 2 cell for my zebra. Made power nose other day and aileron wing today, so ready to progress.
I brought a Radian RTF and extra receiver when i was in Dallas, but not had much luck flying it, first flight was less than minute, went up turned and pitched it into the ground, snapped it behind the motor, I had the control surfaces set to minimum deflection and transmitter on lo. Think it was a little bit too windy for first flight but was impatient (lesson learn).
Glued it with some gorilla glue and re-flew on a slightly less windy day, managed to fly for about 10 minutes, lost it in the sun and smashed it into the ground snapping in behind the previous snap on the nose, broke the wing hoop and snapped tail off. Hoping that i'll be able to fly tiny trainer a bit better (learning fast), at least it's not going to be as expensive when i crash
TooJung2Die
Master member
My First RC Airplane
My first scratch built airplane in over 40 years and my first RC. Well, I had a cheap RTF in the past but it was a disaster and hardly worth mentioning. I built this from the downloaded tiled plans. To my total amazement it flew well on it's maiden and it was still flyable after landing. I can actually control this well enough to keep it in the air and bring it down safely! It has flown about a half dozen times. I find it difficult to see which way it was going at a distance so I just added the florescent tape. It weighs 9.2 oz with a 1000mah 2s battery. I used this power pack: http://www.dx.com/p/265814 Maybe a bit low on power for most but I wouldn't want it any faster at this point in my learning curve.
If you've never flown RC fixed wing before this is the airplane to learn with. Someday I hope to graduate to four channel with this airplane.
Jon
My first scratch built airplane in over 40 years and my first RC. Well, I had a cheap RTF in the past but it was a disaster and hardly worth mentioning. I built this from the downloaded tiled plans. To my total amazement it flew well on it's maiden and it was still flyable after landing. I can actually control this well enough to keep it in the air and bring it down safely! It has flown about a half dozen times. I find it difficult to see which way it was going at a distance so I just added the florescent tape. It weighs 9.2 oz with a 1000mah 2s battery. I used this power pack: http://www.dx.com/p/265814 Maybe a bit low on power for most but I wouldn't want it any faster at this point in my learning curve.
If you've never flown RC fixed wing before this is the airplane to learn with. Someday I hope to graduate to four channel with this airplane.
Jon
Looks great man!
Honestly, I don't think the motor is too small for the Tiny Trainer.
According to the documentation on that kit, the included prop is a 4.1x4.1, which might not be a good match for this plane. It probably feels under-powered because of this. 4.1x4.1 is a "square" prop which is built for speed. Trying to pull a trainer through the air with one will most likely waste battery and make the plane feel like it can't climb well.
Try a different prop. My first experience in flying R/C was with this plane and using an underpropped motor. It got a lot better when I matched a more appropriate prop to the motor and plane!
For your setup, and using a 2S battery, try a 6x3 prop. (5x3 on 3S) It's a common size for 250 size motors, will give you more power, will fly better with less throttle, and will probably be more efficient on this airplane.
I think you'll appreciate the better responsiveness with the larger, less pitchy prop, and you'll be confident enough in no time to dive into the aileron wing!
By the way, nice landing gear! How's it work, and how did you make it?
TooJung2Die
Master member
Thanks for the kind comments. I didn't use the tiny prop it came with. I found a 5.5x4.5 and it works pretty well. I have some 6030 props on order. I'm not familiar with electric RC and the motor looks ridiculously small. I have doubt it'll swing a 6 inch prop but we'll see. The last plane I built was a balsa free flight powered by a Cox .020 so you can guess how old that makes me.
Even with the right angled motor mount it still requires some right trim under power and left rudder when gliding. It cruises nice at half throttle, climbing slowly.
Keeping with the scratch built concept I made the landing gear from material I had handy. I cut it from .030" aluminum sheet. The wheels are sections of broomstick and the tires are pipe insulation. The axle is coat hanger wire. It is held to the fuselage by rubber bands at the front wing skewers.
I just got back from flying. I went through 4 batteries and flew for an hour. The landing zone is rough and rocky but the landing gear held up and saved the prop. It escaped with only a few minor dents. I'm jazzed.
Jon
I built this as a 4 channel plane and added landing gear (rubber bands, clothes hangar and some hobby wheels). I have no idea if it will fly but I am running an Emax 1806 with a 6030 prop on 3S so it should be able to flip and roll.
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Trailing edge
Love how you lengthened the BBQ skewer on the back of the wing and notched the ailerons so the rubber bands don't get slip and get caught.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I like your airplane and I have no doubt it'll fly great. I like the simple landing gear. I'm new to RC and the TT is the first scratch built airplane I've made in over 40 years. I built the Glider wing version first followed soon after by the Sport wing. I flew the Sport wing and 4 channel for the very first time in my life yesterday and it's great! I'm totally amazed by how easy these airplanes are to build and fly. I'm still learning the directional orientation so practicing on RC Desk Pilot has been an airplane saver.
I made large soft tires because the flying field is rocky dirt. They roll better over the boulders and they look like Alaskan bush plane tires.
I tried a 6030 prop on the tiny motor I first had on the airplane. It flew great for about ten minutes then it fried the motor and ESC. The heat shrink on the ESC melted and the motor was very hot to touch. No wonder it came with a 4141 prop. I put the 5545 prop back on. The motor still runs but stutters and quits after a few minutes.
Jon
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Ron B
Posted a thousand or more times
Torf
I flew my TT the other night and a band slipped into the aileron and I did a spiral dive into the dirt so I notched out the ailerons and put in a skewer on each side that runs parallel to the fuselage so the bands can't slip out again. The next wing I build will have shorter ailerons and a longer skewer like you have done.
Lavochkin
I don't know if expo was mentioned but do set your rates with the gauge and on low rate you should do fine.
I flew my TT the other night and a band slipped into the aileron and I did a spiral dive into the dirt so I notched out the ailerons and put in a skewer on each side that runs parallel to the fuselage so the bands can't slip out again. The next wing I build will have shorter ailerons and a longer skewer like you have done.
Lavochkin
I don't know if expo was mentioned but do set your rates with the gauge and on low rate you should do fine.
TooJung2Die
Master member
Expo
TT is my first RC too. I don't count the RTF I bought about five years ago. What a disaster.
Use the throw angle gauges in the kit and plans. I set the throw to 50% and expo to -75 for both rudder and elevator with the glider wing. I have a FlySky FS-i6 transmitter. This is the first RC airplane I've ever been able to fly and land to fly it again. I graduated to the sport wing and four channel. Now I have a couple of 3S Lipo's on order to see what that level is like.
The Tiny Trainer is the airplane to learn to fly RC with. It flies beautifully. It will get damaged but since you built it yourself you can fix it fast and inexpensively.
Jon
TT is my first RC too. I don't count the RTF I bought about five years ago. What a disaster.
Use the throw angle gauges in the kit and plans. I set the throw to 50% and expo to -75 for both rudder and elevator with the glider wing. I have a FlySky FS-i6 transmitter. This is the first RC airplane I've ever been able to fly and land to fly it again. I graduated to the sport wing and four channel. Now I have a couple of 3S Lipo's on order to see what that level is like.
The Tiny Trainer is the airplane to learn to fly RC with. It flies beautifully. It will get damaged but since you built it yourself you can fix it fast and inexpensively.
Jon
Had a great day of flying with my Tiny Trainer and FS-i6 transmitter! This was the 3rd day I flew with it - the first day was lots of fun, but lots of crashes too - and a couple hard ones. I made some repairs and on the second day couldn't get it to fly right at all - turns out my repairs weren't up to the job. Spent some time on the simulator, and pulled out the knives and glue gun again. The biggest problem was repeated nose dives had turned the round skewer holes in the power pod into long jagged slots. So I rebuilt the power pod and today had the best day of flying yet!
Multiple flights and every landing was soft enough that all I had to do was straighten up the wings! No repairs today!
I did learn that it's rather sensitive to wind - when other planes at the field were cutting a nice clean pattern, I would suddenly find my TT banking for no particular reason, or pitching up into a climb I wasn't expecting. But the practice on the simulator helped a lot, and I was always able to get it back under control and pointing the right way again.
Thank you Flite Test and forum community - it's been a great experience so far, and I look forward to building many more planes in the future. Next up, 3S lipo's on the trainer wing, and then on to the ailerons!
Jon
Multiple flights and every landing was soft enough that all I had to do was straighten up the wings! No repairs today!
I did learn that it's rather sensitive to wind - when other planes at the field were cutting a nice clean pattern, I would suddenly find my TT banking for no particular reason, or pitching up into a climb I wasn't expecting. But the practice on the simulator helped a lot, and I was always able to get it back under control and pointing the right way again.
Thank you Flite Test and forum community - it's been a great experience so far, and I look forward to building many more planes in the future. Next up, 3S lipo's on the trainer wing, and then on to the ailerons!
Jon
It's great to hear all of the success that the ft tt is having. I still haven't spent the time on building one since I've decided to go old school flite test and build the ft flyer; and I will add having a great time with it. But the next true ft plane I will build is the ft tt, there are some extra parts I want to order before I do start building.
Now Expo.
The question has been out there has been to use expo and how much. Like say for the maiden flight. To start you need to make sure you have setup your throws right without interfering with your other flight surfaces i.e. elevator hitting the rudder when pulling full up on the stick. After that you can do two things; setup high and low rates and expo. For me, on slow flyers I setup high rates at 100% travel / 30% expo, low rates at 70/30. Now for fast flyers, like if you use a 3s lipo on this, I use high rates at 70/30 low at maybe 50/50. Now after the maiden you get the feel how you fly this plane you can play around with the settings and please do. It's all about learning here.
EDIT:
But there are some who would say if you are going to change the battery to 3s you should think about making two FT TTs for the difference in flight.
If you use your radio to limit the travel of the flight you lose what's call resolution in the controls. Meaning for every degree your servo travels per point of resolution in the computer controlling it. If you limit the travel in the radio the controls might get choppier.
I remember that there was one episode when David Windestål was talking about how you should use your copter’s flight controller to limit and not the radio so you don’t lose resolution. But can’t remember which episode though.
Now Expo.
The question has been out there has been to use expo and how much. Like say for the maiden flight. To start you need to make sure you have setup your throws right without interfering with your other flight surfaces i.e. elevator hitting the rudder when pulling full up on the stick. After that you can do two things; setup high and low rates and expo. For me, on slow flyers I setup high rates at 100% travel / 30% expo, low rates at 70/30. Now for fast flyers, like if you use a 3s lipo on this, I use high rates at 70/30 low at maybe 50/50. Now after the maiden you get the feel how you fly this plane you can play around with the settings and please do. It's all about learning here.
EDIT:
But there are some who would say if you are going to change the battery to 3s you should think about making two FT TTs for the difference in flight.
If you use your radio to limit the travel of the flight you lose what's call resolution in the controls. Meaning for every degree your servo travels per point of resolution in the computer controlling it. If you limit the travel in the radio the controls might get choppier.
I remember that there was one episode when David Windestål was talking about how you should use your copter’s flight controller to limit and not the radio so you don’t lose resolution. But can’t remember which episode though.
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