Ft viggen group build!

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
After careful consideration I trashed the wing on my build, i will cut out new wings and not mess up this time. Figure 20mins on my needle cutter is quicker then trying to recover $2.50 worth of board. Heading to the hobby shop right away to get parts for the 2D 3D edge build, figure I will see if I can get a few carbon fiber spars while there for the new wing. Outside of that I need to buy an Arizona ice tea for the can, going aluminum for the thrust tube. Once I have a good thrust tube I can finish the thrust vectoring. Build will go very fast after that.
The aluminum thrust tube will help with balooning i am guessing.
 

HilldaFlyer

Well-known member
This winter I think I'll rebuild the Viggen. I've been wanting to create foiled wings with a decent spar, but if that were cut into the fuselage, it would obstruct the intake. So I like the ideas in this thread of cutting out the top wing panel, but then the spar wouldn't go all the way through. The fuselage would then have to "replace" the top wing spar - which might work. The build would have complete fiberglass skin.

Here is what happens when you use a 4S 70 mm EDF on 6S.

 
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Homey

Elite member
Hi all,

I'm too lazy to check the entire thread, so forgive me if this has been covered.
I've built my Viggen with a cheapo 70mm edf that has good reviews, but may be a tad heavy! I had to add 105 grams so I wouldn't have the battery in the nose. Has anyone else experienced this?

Peter
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
Great flying @Headbang and great looking viggen @Photo001 I don’t have a 2205, but I do have an 1808 - wait I have two!! Maybe a twin pusher viggen with differential??!! I don’t know though... what do you think?
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
Hi all,

I'm too lazy to check the entire thread, so forgive me if this has been covered.
I've built my Viggen with a cheapo 70mm edf that has good reviews, but may be a tad heavy! I had to add 105 grams so I wouldn't have the battery in the nose. Has anyone else experienced this?

Peter
I’m doing a pusher prop version for my viggen, so I don’t know about the 70mm edf, but I think you do have to place the battery pretty far forward to get it to balance. @jpot1 said that the smaller motor would make balancing easier, so I’m guessing that viggens usually tail heavy, but I guess I’ll find out when I build mine... two motors would would be twice the weight in the back, so maybe I should just stick with my original plan as a b or c pack pusher for right now. So many options...
 

Headbang

Master member
Great flying @Headbang and great looking viggen @Photo001 I don’t have a 2205, but I do have an 1808 - wait I have two!! Maybe a twin pusher viggen with differential??!! I don’t know though... what do you think?
Funny thing is an 1808 will need a smaller battery, making everything lighter. I think it would work. Build with lighter glues and you might have a winner.
I think the b and c pack motors are the wrong fit, the viggen is much better off with a high kv motor and smaller prop.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
Funny thing is an 1808 will need a smaller battery, making everything lighter. I think it would work. Build with lighter glues and you might have a winner.
I think the b and c pack motors are the wrong fit, the viggen is much better off with a high kv motor and smaller prop.
Hmm, so a 1808 instead of a b or c pack? I think I’ll give that a shot. Maybe the twin will be a future project then. So a smaller battery like a 1000 mah 3s?
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
As far as lighter glue, hot glue is the only stuff I’ve used. If I go really light on it like only filling creases with a dab in several spots and stuff like that will that work? If not, what kind of gorilla glue or whatever will I need? Also, how long should I wait between steps?
 

Headbang

Master member
Hmm, so a 1808 instead of a b or c pack? I think I’ll give that a shot. Maybe the twin will be a future project then. So a smaller battery like a 1000 mah 3s?
800mAh is a good fit.
As far as glue... I use "white gorilla glue" all the time. Expands less then the yellow stuff, and cures in half the time. Do not confuse it with clear, clear does not expand at all.
20190916_231611.jpg
Notice in the background the steal bars and stuff weighting a part down that is curing. 9ah sealed gel cell ups batteries are amazing for holding things together. Bottles of water work well. Tape. 2x4's What ever is heavy and handy. A misting spray bottle with water is handy to lightly mist one side of the part to speed activation of the glue.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
800mAh is a good fit.
As far as glue... I use "white gorilla glue" all the time. Expands less then the yellow stuff, and cures in half the time. Do not confuse it with clear, clear does not expand at all.
View attachment 142844
Notice in the background the steal bars and stuff weighting a part down that is curing. 9ah sealed gel cell ups batteries are amazing for holding things together. Bottles of water work well. Tape. 2x4's What ever is heavy and handy. A misting spray bottle with water is handy to lightly mist one side of the part to speed activation of the glue.
I’ll see about getting a 800 mah 3s. The thing I like about the 1000 mah 3s looks I get is that they fly pretty much any of my airplanes - a little on the big side for the minis and definitely on the lower side for the scout and cub kinds of things... But it works for all of them! So fill the crack with glue and then give it a light mist, then close it and “clamp” it? Does he water warp the foam at all?
 

jpot1

Elite member
The last time I built a viggen I used a 2200kv motor swinging a 6x4 prop. Even with the servos forward I ended up needing a 3s 2200 to balance and I had to cut a hole into the nose so the battery could stick further forward than under the canopy area. Perhaps I just built heavy with too much hot glue. @The Hangar I would not run and go buy a battery until you build this. I think the 1000 3s will be fine. Just my $0.02.
 

Headbang

Master member
I’ll see about getting a 800 mah 3s. The thing I like about the 1000 mah 3s looks I get is that they fly pretty much any of my airplanes - a little on the big side for the minis and definitely on the lower side for the scout and cub kinds of things... But it works for all of them! So fill the crack with glue and then give it a light mist, then close it and “clamp” it? Does he water warp the foam at all?
Give one side a light mist, or in the case of folds do not mist. Depends on humidity, here in the winter at -30C there is none, so I have to mist parts. This summer it has not stopped raining, I have not been misting parts at all since the humidity is so high.