jpot1
Elite member
Any progress on converting to a tractor? Also plans? Would love to try building this to try out your fuse approach.
FTCC'18 WWII Fieseler Fi 103R Reichenberg
- Thread starter DamoRC
- Start date
Any progress on converting to a tractor? Also plans? Would love to try building this to try out your fuse approach.
Plans And Updates
These are the current versions of the plans.
Rev 6 includes motor mounts and specs for a tractor (puller) version. The zipped file contains:
(1) Tiled PDF
(2) Full PDF
(3) The DoubleCAD .2CD file
(4) The Sketchup File
(5) The dxf file
View attachment Reichenberg Rev 6 (+Tractor).zip
DamoRC
These are the current versions of the plans.
Rev 6 includes motor mounts and specs for a tractor (puller) version. The zipped file contains:
(1) Tiled PDF
(2) Full PDF
(3) The DoubleCAD .2CD file
(4) The Sketchup File
(5) The dxf file
View attachment Reichenberg Rev 6 (+Tractor).zip
DamoRC
Last edited:
Build Post
This is the build of the EDF version of the Reichenberg. At the end of this post I also describe how to do the tractor version. I did not get great pictures of all of the steps and will keep the text pretty brief. If you have any questions please just post them.
The pulse jet and fuselage parts are assembled in the same way. Each of these parts is cut and scored per the plans. The score cuts are widened by running a blunt BBQ skewer along the score. These parts all have a section at the end where the foam is removed so just the outer layer of paper remains (on the RHS of this pic)
Open up the scores and add a little gorilla glue (GG). I use a piece of foam to "scrape" the GG into the score cut. This results in the sections being pretty rigid. When done, add hot glue to the paper portion at the end and fold the piece around.
All of the pieces have optional frames which you can cut. When you have hot glued the part, use the frame to ensure the shape is symmetrical. The frame will hold the piece in this shape while the GG dries.
When all of your pieces are cut, glued and framed, you will have a forest of parts (won't be winning any prizes for low part count on this build)
When the GG is set, just hot glue each section together to build the fuse and pulse jet. Note: don't add the rear cone to the fuse until after the tailfeathers are installed and the wing is installed into the fuse. This will give you a chance to make sure that the wing and tail feathers are square.
Note that there are no sub-structural pieces in the design, the GG reinforced parts are strong enough.
The horizontal stablizer is reinforced by cutting a pocket for a thin strip of paint stirring stick to be glued in. Then add some tape.
A wire frame rod for the split elevators. A servo control arm is glued to the center of the rod. The rod shape is provided in the plans. The rod is then hinged with tape to the horizontal stabilizer. The elevator is fit up to the horizontal stabilizer and the shape of the rod marked on the elevator. Score cut these marks and widen a little so that the rod can fit into the elevator. Glue the rod in place and reinforce with some tape.
Install the HS / Elevator into the rear fuse cone as marked on the plans. You will need to cut a slot so that the servo control arm glued to the rod will pass through the piece. Once installed, cut the split elevators so that they are free to move.
I inserted a control rod with a modified Z bend into the servo control arm glued onto the rod. Then insert the other end of the rod through a linkage stopped on the servo. A couple of pieces of foam are needed to glue the servo in place so that the servo can move the elevator without interference.
The EDF is simply glued into the first section of the pulse jet. You will need to add a slot to the second section as a relief for the EDF wires. When the first and second sections are joined, don't forget to seal this slot (I used foam and hot glue for this)
Then assemble the pulse jet pieces by hot gluing each section together. Take care to use sufficient glue to seal each piece as this is your thrust tube.
The wings are FT style, flat bottomed wings. The aileron servos are pocketed into the lower wing surface. Strips of paint stirrer are used to reinforce the wing and the joint between the two wing halves. Once the wing halves are joined install into the fuse. Now you can add your rear fuse cone section making sure that the wing and horizontal stabilizer are parallel.
The canopy assembly is pretty straight forward. You will need to bevel the rear contact surfaces to have them join properly. You will also need to bevel the surfaces that glue to the fuse so that the canopy sits flush on the fuse. The plans provide markings to help you position the canopy properly.
You will need to add a small hole for the EDF wires to enter the fuse.
Attach the vertical stabilizer to the pulsjet and then glue the piece onto the fuse (EDF holder onto the canopy, vertical stabilizer into the fuse using the tabs marked on the plans).
Mark the hatch per the plans and cut out. The GG makes the piece rigid so no other reinforcement for the hatch is needed. Use short lengths of BBQ skewer at the front and small magnets at the back to allow for opening and closing of the hatch. Note The hatch position is the same for the EDF and Tractor versions of the plane.
The bottom of the plane was painted sky blue and the top of the plane painted green.
Finished build before maiden.
Tractor conversion
The following describes the conversion from EDF to Tractor. Obviously, if you are building the tractor version you can skip the EDF and nose removal steps.
(Note Plans are not yet updated for the tractor version)
I first removed the EDF by cutting the first section off the pulse jet. Then I removed the first three sections of the fuse.
The third section of the fuse is split into two at approx the 1 inch mark.
These are the parts for the motor mount, and the motor mount assembled. I then glued a 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch piece of 1/8th ply to the mount (sorry no pic). The part was reinforced using extreme packing tape to hold the ply mount to the foam.
The mount is then inserted and hot glued into the fuse section.
The motor can then be screwed onto the ply. I used some thin washers to give it a little "down and right".
I noted that the remaining small ring from the fuse section will fit over the motor itself (although it makes the motor mount inaccessible).
The fuse section with motor mount is then glued onto the fuse and a 9 x 6 APC prop installed.
For a nicer finish, I removed the prop, glued on the small ring, then re-installed the prop.
DamoRC
This is the build of the EDF version of the Reichenberg. At the end of this post I also describe how to do the tractor version. I did not get great pictures of all of the steps and will keep the text pretty brief. If you have any questions please just post them.
The pulse jet and fuselage parts are assembled in the same way. Each of these parts is cut and scored per the plans. The score cuts are widened by running a blunt BBQ skewer along the score. These parts all have a section at the end where the foam is removed so just the outer layer of paper remains (on the RHS of this pic)
Open up the scores and add a little gorilla glue (GG). I use a piece of foam to "scrape" the GG into the score cut. This results in the sections being pretty rigid. When done, add hot glue to the paper portion at the end and fold the piece around.
All of the pieces have optional frames which you can cut. When you have hot glued the part, use the frame to ensure the shape is symmetrical. The frame will hold the piece in this shape while the GG dries.
When all of your pieces are cut, glued and framed, you will have a forest of parts (won't be winning any prizes for low part count on this build)
When the GG is set, just hot glue each section together to build the fuse and pulse jet. Note: don't add the rear cone to the fuse until after the tailfeathers are installed and the wing is installed into the fuse. This will give you a chance to make sure that the wing and tail feathers are square.
Note that there are no sub-structural pieces in the design, the GG reinforced parts are strong enough.
The horizontal stablizer is reinforced by cutting a pocket for a thin strip of paint stirring stick to be glued in. Then add some tape.
A wire frame rod for the split elevators. A servo control arm is glued to the center of the rod. The rod shape is provided in the plans. The rod is then hinged with tape to the horizontal stabilizer. The elevator is fit up to the horizontal stabilizer and the shape of the rod marked on the elevator. Score cut these marks and widen a little so that the rod can fit into the elevator. Glue the rod in place and reinforce with some tape.
Install the HS / Elevator into the rear fuse cone as marked on the plans. You will need to cut a slot so that the servo control arm glued to the rod will pass through the piece. Once installed, cut the split elevators so that they are free to move.
I inserted a control rod with a modified Z bend into the servo control arm glued onto the rod. Then insert the other end of the rod through a linkage stopped on the servo. A couple of pieces of foam are needed to glue the servo in place so that the servo can move the elevator without interference.
The EDF is simply glued into the first section of the pulse jet. You will need to add a slot to the second section as a relief for the EDF wires. When the first and second sections are joined, don't forget to seal this slot (I used foam and hot glue for this)
Then assemble the pulse jet pieces by hot gluing each section together. Take care to use sufficient glue to seal each piece as this is your thrust tube.
The wings are FT style, flat bottomed wings. The aileron servos are pocketed into the lower wing surface. Strips of paint stirrer are used to reinforce the wing and the joint between the two wing halves. Once the wing halves are joined install into the fuse. Now you can add your rear fuse cone section making sure that the wing and horizontal stabilizer are parallel.
The canopy assembly is pretty straight forward. You will need to bevel the rear contact surfaces to have them join properly. You will also need to bevel the surfaces that glue to the fuse so that the canopy sits flush on the fuse. The plans provide markings to help you position the canopy properly.
You will need to add a small hole for the EDF wires to enter the fuse.
Attach the vertical stabilizer to the pulsjet and then glue the piece onto the fuse (EDF holder onto the canopy, vertical stabilizer into the fuse using the tabs marked on the plans).
Mark the hatch per the plans and cut out. The GG makes the piece rigid so no other reinforcement for the hatch is needed. Use short lengths of BBQ skewer at the front and small magnets at the back to allow for opening and closing of the hatch. Note The hatch position is the same for the EDF and Tractor versions of the plane.
The bottom of the plane was painted sky blue and the top of the plane painted green.
Finished build before maiden.
Tractor conversion
The following describes the conversion from EDF to Tractor. Obviously, if you are building the tractor version you can skip the EDF and nose removal steps.
(Note Plans are not yet updated for the tractor version)I first removed the EDF by cutting the first section off the pulse jet. Then I removed the first three sections of the fuse.
The third section of the fuse is split into two at approx the 1 inch mark.
These are the parts for the motor mount, and the motor mount assembled. I then glued a 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch piece of 1/8th ply to the mount (sorry no pic). The part was reinforced using extreme packing tape to hold the ply mount to the foam.
The mount is then inserted and hot glued into the fuse section.
The motor can then be screwed onto the ply. I used some thin washers to give it a little "down and right".
I noted that the remaining small ring from the fuse section will fit over the motor itself (although it makes the motor mount inaccessible).
The fuse section with motor mount is then glued onto the fuse and a 9 x 6 APC prop installed.
For a nicer finish, I removed the prop, glued on the small ring, then re-installed the prop.
DamoRC
Last edited:
jpot1
Elite member
Thank you for doing this so quickly. Plans look very easy to follow. What changes were you thinking for a tractor setup?
You're welcome. The only changes I see are (1) the front two fuse pieces will not be used (2) the third fuse piece may be a little shorter (3)design a motor mount to fit in the third fuse piece and (4) the hatch may be relocated depending on how she balances.
I am going to fit an NTM 2826 1200kV motor, equivalent to a C-pack motor and plan to run on 3S / 2200mAh.
DamoRC
jpot1
Elite member
Got it, makes sense. Printed out the pulse jet to see if I could get my sections to look as nice as yours. Plans are great as the first two pieces went together nicely!
jpot1
Elite member
Looks great. What is the approximate diameter of the piece you cut in two? I’m trying to see if I can fit a swappable pod that I have shortened. Started cutting tonight to try out things on the pulse jet. This thing is going to be huge! Going to be a long project with all of the cuts and templates to hold everything. That being said, plans are very well laid out.
Thanks! Yep - its pretty long (55 inches). It's really cool to see someone else try the build.
The third section in the fuse (piece I spliced to add the motor mount) is ~1.25 inches inner diameter at the front and ~3.25 inches inner diameter at the rear. Folded, it is 2.5 inches long.
Hope that helps!
DamoRC
The third section in the fuse (piece I spliced to add the motor mount) is ~1.25 inches inner diameter at the front and ~3.25 inches inner diameter at the rear. Folded, it is 2.5 inches long.
Hope that helps!
DamoRC
HilldaFlyer
Well-known member
Nice work on the joints!
jpot1
Elite member
Thanks!
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