TurtlesThatFly
Member
I'm impressed at how many projects you could handle at the same time. Who's going to fly all of them? 
FTFC'18 WWII - Ushakov LPL Flying Submarine by FoamyDM
- Thread starter FoamyDM
- Start date
Quite possibly the coolest RC project ever! I want to see this happen.
Will you make it FPV? Have you thought of a resurface failsafe just in case?
When this happens, you'll need a separate underwater camera to be able to post a more complete maiden.
I wish you well on this fantastic project.
—Jim
Will you make it FPV? Have you thought of a resurface failsafe just in case?
When this happens, you'll need a separate underwater camera to be able to post a more complete maiden.
I wish you well on this fantastic project.
—Jim
I thought about nabbing a sub like that just for giggles and maybe an UW camera.
Thank you guys for the support and encouragement. I just hope I can get all these models flying. I really enjoy putting the plans together and building. Can't say I'm great at it specially regarding curvy shapes... and sometimes my eyeballs must be crooked as when I eyeball, it's not always the way it should be. Often when I do, i go back and CAD it out to be symmetrical. You'll see what I mean in the pics below.
Oops signal lost! no worries...
regarding the float fail safe It will be just buoyant and rely on the ailerons/rudder/elevator to move it under the water. if the signal is lost, then the plane stops and floats to the surface, where it should regain control at that point.
FPV cameras...
I was going waterproof the crap out of the $8 teeny boards while protecting the lens. I wanted to set up a "modelized" cockpit with a camera, one in front of the torpedoes underneath and one in/on the tail or conning tower. or if I have a retractable periscope put one on a "telescoping" periscope stick. when retracted it would be at the top of the CT and then it would rise about the water after submerged. obviously on a 3 way switch.
note the asymmetry here.
What is THIS!?
The only thing left is the sump pump to bilge out from the floats to the rear.
Thank you guys for the support and encouragement. I just hope I can get all these models flying. I really enjoy putting the plans together and building. Can't say I'm great at it specially regarding curvy shapes... and sometimes my eyeballs must be crooked as when I eyeball, it's not always the way it should be. Often when I do, i go back and CAD it out to be symmetrical. You'll see what I mean in the pics below.
Oops signal lost! no worries...
regarding the float fail safe It will be just buoyant and rely on the ailerons/rudder/elevator to move it under the water. if the signal is lost, then the plane stops and floats to the surface, where it should regain control at that point.
FPV cameras...
I was going waterproof the crap out of the $8 teeny boards while protecting the lens. I wanted to set up a "modelized" cockpit with a camera, one in front of the torpedoes underneath and one in/on the tail or conning tower. or if I have a retractable periscope put one on a "telescoping" periscope stick. when retracted it would be at the top of the CT and then it would rise about the water after submerged. obviously on a 3 way switch.
note the asymmetry here.
What is THIS!?
The only thing left is the sump pump to bilge out from the floats to the rear.
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1. Goal is to get it flying.
2. load it to the buoyant level (1200g)
3. Water proof the plane, servos, and electronic. fly it on and off a pond.
4. sink it in a tub.
5. fly, float and sink on a pond.
6. build torpedoes,
7. build UW mines, boat to drive around,
2. load it to the buoyant level (1200g)
3. Water proof the plane, servos, and electronic. fly it on and off a pond.
4. sink it in a tub.
5. fly, float and sink on a pond.
6. build torpedoes,
7. build UW mines, boat to drive around,
Nice, wait... Aw Heck!
Thanks.
It hurt my heart last night to finish the glue up and think - damn. The 2 outboard engines will be linked and I don't think it will be a huge issue for the will-it-fly check. but... it might be. I think I may just rebuild the wing.
What easy way? you mean this?
I felt shame as I posted the pic.
Either way I should be able to check if it's airworthy this weekend.
Another fail-safe would be a marker buoy secured in with Tictacs. This method will release every submergence, but in the event SOMETHING goes terribly wrong and the craft doesn't surface, the Tictac dissolves after about 10 minutes and releases the marker buoy so I'll know where to dive down to retrieve the plane.
Thanks.
It hurt my heart last night to finish the glue up and think - damn. The 2 outboard engines will be linked and I don't think it will be a huge issue for the will-it-fly check. but... it might be. I think I may just rebuild the wing.
What easy way? you mean this?
I felt shame as I posted the pic.
Either way I should be able to check if it's airworthy this weekend.
Another fail-safe would be a marker buoy secured in with Tictacs. This method will release every submergence, but in the event SOMETHING goes terribly wrong and the craft doesn't surface, the Tictac dissolves after about 10 minutes and releases the marker buoy so I'll know where to dive down to retrieve the plane.
The Flip Side.
Ah, Patch then re-cut. oh, and measure. I decided on engine placement based on the inside of the aileron was the line to cut for the outside of the two nacells. Clearly THEY aren't symmetrical or I would've been good. Lesson: confirm your registrations are correct before laying out everything else.
JimCR120- You are right... I've thought about it. the Floats are supposed to be the first to flood and the last to surface. I plan to have the batteries/ballast will be in the fuselage. and the wings and conning tower have more foam in them and with always thereby be more buoyant.
Progress: Spent most of the night trying to get a Quad Copter running so only a little progress on the LPL-FS... Started installing and hooking up servos. (stop when I had to go into "RC Storage" to find my Y connectors.)
Ah, Patch then re-cut. oh, and measure. I decided on engine placement based on the inside of the aileron was the line to cut for the outside of the two nacells. Clearly THEY aren't symmetrical or I would've been good. Lesson: confirm your registrations are correct before laying out everything else.
JimCR120- You are right... I've thought about it. the Floats are supposed to be the first to flood and the last to surface. I plan to have the batteries/ballast will be in the fuselage. and the wings and conning tower have more foam in them and with always thereby be more buoyant.
Progress: Spent most of the night trying to get a Quad Copter running so only a little progress on the LPL-FS... Started installing and hooking up servos. (stop when I had to go into "RC Storage" to find my Y connectors.)
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So I understand right, do you mean to divide the plane into two internal chambers and have a Port and Starboard blow valve controlled on the aileron channel? This is to control the roll of the craft as it sink so as not to over-sink one side...
I could If the wings and wing surfaces don't do that on their own. I'll find out I suppose, as I've never done anything like this at all.
if I need it, it's an idea worth trying.
I could If the wings and wing surfaces don't do that on their own. I'll find out I suppose, as I've never done anything like this at all.
if I need it, it's an idea worth trying.
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
IF you find that you have room in your displacement calculations you could fit foam blocks in the wing tips to sort of act as "Outriggers" and stop the roll over except in the most extreme circumstances.
Imagine if surfacing or diving and one pontoon floods and the other doesn't. When the wing tip hits the water the buoyancy of the wing tip will act as a lever and should stop the plane rolling further.For maximum stability all ballast tanks should be mounted as close as is possible to the centre line of the fuselage.
The differential airflow I had envisaged under aileron control would be where the 2 air hoses connect to the main air supply a couple of mechanical "Pinch off" levers operated by the aileron, or rudder, channel so that when roll input is applied one hose is crushed to stop the airflow and the other is fully open, Just a rough method to vary the airflow into the pontoons if needed.
Have fun!
Imagine if surfacing or diving and one pontoon floods and the other doesn't. When the wing tip hits the water the buoyancy of the wing tip will act as a lever and should stop the plane rolling further.For maximum stability all ballast tanks should be mounted as close as is possible to the centre line of the fuselage.
The differential airflow I had envisaged under aileron control would be where the 2 air hoses connect to the main air supply a couple of mechanical "Pinch off" levers operated by the aileron, or rudder, channel so that when roll input is applied one hose is crushed to stop the airflow and the other is fully open, Just a rough method to vary the airflow into the pontoons if needed.
Have fun!
I think I can... I think I can...
@Hai-Lee - That's a great Idea about the wingtip floats. I assumed the wings will self level any listing as the boat sinks. The Aileron flaps are approx 70% foam. I'm curious to see if they act as float blocks in the situation your describe. I'm thinking of doing a pull-pull plug in the float's step (like a toilet flapper valve), but a mechanical pinch on a hose might work too (or just a simple fold over[kink]). Lastly this will be a flood to sink, and bilge pump to surface.
I'm excited to rebuild this all water proofed and to see it how it submerges.
I'm not sure the Foam will work. When I started putting 1000g of battery together, (my Ballast ball-parking) I was at 3 3S-2200mah. and 1-1500mAh 4S. Which is a LOT for a 28" plane. I'm doubtful the plane will fly with that ballast mass required... I thought it would, and until I get a working model... who knows. But if it doesn't, I've got to think on a few light weight - less buoyant material alternates rolling around. A S.P.A.D. type made from Corrugated plastic board might work (except the need to drain all the corrugations. but could be hard on the shaping, but pretty durable I imagine. another would be 3D printing it. Last would be Aluminum soda or just regular sheeting and spar construction.
In the short time I left myself last night I put together float stands. I haven't glued them onto the wing, as I mull over if they need to have any internal workings this build or not. They Make me happy. To further along I get the more off the engines make the plane.
@Hai-Lee - That's a great Idea about the wingtip floats. I assumed the wings will self level any listing as the boat sinks. The Aileron flaps are approx 70% foam. I'm curious to see if they act as float blocks in the situation your describe. I'm thinking of doing a pull-pull plug in the float's step (like a toilet flapper valve), but a mechanical pinch on a hose might work too (or just a simple fold over[kink]). Lastly this will be a flood to sink, and bilge pump to surface.
I'm excited to rebuild this all water proofed and to see it how it submerges.
I'm not sure the Foam will work. When I started putting 1000g of battery together, (my Ballast ball-parking) I was at 3 3S-2200mah. and 1-1500mAh 4S. Which is a LOT for a 28" plane. I'm doubtful the plane will fly with that ballast mass required... I thought it would, and until I get a working model... who knows. But if it doesn't, I've got to think on a few light weight - less buoyant material alternates rolling around. A S.P.A.D. type made from Corrugated plastic board might work (except the need to drain all the corrugations. but could be hard on the shaping, but pretty durable I imagine. another would be 3D printing it. Last would be Aluminum soda or just regular sheeting and spar construction.
In the short time I left myself last night I put together float stands. I haven't glued them onto the wing, as I mull over if they need to have any internal workings this build or not. They Make me happy. To further along I get the more off the engines make the plane.
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