FTFC19: Build-ruary by Kilroy07

kilroy07

Legendary member
your sea Duck Looks Great
Thanks, but that's only because it's at a distance.
Up close you see all the colored packing tape ugliness... :cautious:

Tape is great for accents or planes with simple geometry, but it was a pain here...

I've always liked the 30-40's USAAC training colors (probably from always wanting the COX pt-19 control line flyer as a kid but never getting one.)
I was going to do the Sea Duck in yellow/red but there's rumors that color scheme is cursed! :ROFLMAO:

I will break the trend (maybe) with the Mustang... I have a hard time NOT doing warbirds as warbirds...
There has been one exception;
IMG_7156.JPG That was a skin for FF18 (Ohio)
Too cold to spray 3m currently, and I am NOT spraying that inside!! (My God the mess that would make!)
So, I will probably airbrush the Mustang.

The legacy though, yea, we can go back to blue & Yellow.

If I have time (and some spare vinyl laying about) I might do the red dot stars to complete the look.
 
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FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Yellow wing, blue fuse. red tail, white gap.
Build-ruary airlines. Pilot Kilroy07 reporting for duty.
If you change the red to yellow and due the Vert Stab. rudder in red. could be part of the Build-raury Airforce. :LOL:

Mine get the old man wrinkles to 'tsokay, just not like you want.
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
Here's a link to a similar machine on Ebay (NOT an endorsement for this seller, shop around!)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Engraving-Machine-Engraver-Cutter-60W-CO2-w-USB-Interface-New/192082861516?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=20e742df0438464a9ddd44a62a7b0ae5&pid=100675&rk=3&rkt=15&mehot=lo&sd=112457347228&itm=192082861516&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:561f91dc-30c9-11e9-aa3d-74dbd180d0aa|parentrq:eefb8f941680a9e2a8c94247fff3d627|iid:1

It "just about" fits a full sized sheet of foamboard (working area 500x700mm, about 19.5x27.5") I usually have to add a sheet or two for the bigger FT kits just due to piece rotation etc (but I'm not complaining!)

The software for these isn't "too bad"... there's a pretty good series on youtube;
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqCyShJXqnElPTUnxX0mD5A

Which one of these emoji thingymajiggers is the green-with-envy one? Oh, maybe this one :sick:

So how much of the 60W is really needed - based on your experience tuning the power settings? Can you derive a minimum lower wattage required from the duty cycle you are running? Apologies if you have posted this stuff elsewhere.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
Which one of these emoji thingymajiggers is the green-with-envy one? Oh, maybe this one :sick:

So how much of the 60W is really needed - based on your experience tuning the power settings? Can you derive a minimum lower wattage required from the duty cycle you are running? Apologies if you have posted this stuff elsewhere.
No problem!

In all actuality 60 watt is the upper end for cutting Foamboard with these co2 tube type lasers.
My current settings between a “Mark” and “Etch” is just a few points in power.
(I’m out of town on business but I think it’s 100mm/sec travel and 13 power to mark, 17 to etch and 25 to cut.)

Late last year I had to replace my tube and learned that the power rating on the tube is directly related to its length. So what they actually have there is a 50 W machine that they are over driving the tube to get 60 W of power I don’t think I ever cut at 100 percent power so it wasn’t ever an issue but it’s something to look out for.

40 W is actually plenty to cut foam board but the working area on those machines is usually lacking.
it is nice to have the extra power when you’re cutting plywood parts out though such as control horns and firewalls.
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
No problem!

In all actuality 60 watt is the upper end for cutting Foamboard with these co2 tube type lasers.
My current settings between a “Mark” and “Etch” is just a few points in power.
(I’m out of town on business but I think it’s 100mm/sec travel and 13 power to mark, 17 to etch and 25 to cut.)

Late last year I had to replace my tube and learned that the power rating on the tube is directly related to its length. So what they actually have there is a 50 W machine that they are over driving the tube to get 60 W of power I don’t think I ever cut at 100 percent power so it wasn’t ever an issue but it’s something to look out for.

40 W is actually plenty to cut foam board but the working area on those machines is usually lacking.
it is nice to have the extra power when you’re cutting plywood parts out though such as control horns and firewalls.

Great info. Thanks.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Build Tip #5 - CG locators
View attachment 124171
I've found that adding a small dot of hotglue on the CG mark makes it MUCH easier to field check CG after battery placement.
I did the dot of glue on my FT-Storch, and I have to say I usually hole-it. but I REALLY like the Dot better, it keeps the finger on, and is a better true point fulcrum. Thanks @kilroy07. Also the video with your daughter is awesome!