TooJung2Die
Master member
I like what you did there.
Goldberg Eagle 2 Rescue & Re-Build
- Thread starter Joker 53150
- Start date
It’s a tight fit for switches, batteries, ignition, etc., but I’m succeeding on stuffing 50 pounds of s$!@ in a 10 pound bag (as my dad would say). Still to come are the opti-kill, receiver, and fuel system. Then I can get the covering finished up.
Things are progressing enough that it's time for a punch-list. My goal is to have the plane finished (maybe not covered) by the end of the weekend. I just got word from our local club that the sod farm is off-limits until it dries out a bit. We had about 2.5" of rain last night so there is still standing water on the lower areas and the ground is very soft. 
The fuel system is plumbed and only needs a filter added. A DuBro fill valve is being used which will give me easy access to filling the tank without removing a stopper. I've got this valve on a couple different planes and like the simplicity. After looking at options for running the spark plug cable I decided there was no good solution (without putting a major bend/kink in the line) so I cut a recess into the fuel tank hatch and will simply run it through there.
While testing the electronics I found the plug was firing about 180* off from when it should fire. Normally the plug sparks close to top-dead-center, which then ignites the gas/air and forces the piston down. This one was firing near bottom-dead-center (if that's a thing?) which won't work. A little playing around with the parts and I found the collar with triggers the sensor can be rotated 180*, so I removed and rotated it to see if that solves the problem. Thankfully, it appears to fire now just before top-dead-center. I'm certainly glad I tested it with the plug out so I could see when it fires!
The fuel system is plumbed and only needs a filter added. A DuBro fill valve is being used which will give me easy access to filling the tank without removing a stopper. I've got this valve on a couple different planes and like the simplicity. After looking at options for running the spark plug cable I decided there was no good solution (without putting a major bend/kink in the line) so I cut a recess into the fuel tank hatch and will simply run it through there.
While testing the electronics I found the plug was firing about 180* off from when it should fire. Normally the plug sparks close to top-dead-center, which then ignites the gas/air and forces the piston down. This one was firing near bottom-dead-center (if that's a thing?) which won't work. A little playing around with the parts and I found the collar with triggers the sensor can be rotated 180*, so I removed and rotated it to see if that solves the problem. Thankfully, it appears to fire now just before top-dead-center.
I'm certainly glad I tested it with the plug out so I could see when it fires!
Before going further I needed to make a template for the wind screen. It'll eventually be made from clear plastic sheet, but for now card stock will due. It's a little over-sized and the plastic will be final-trimmed after the plane is covered.
With that done, I stripped everything out of the plane to prepare for filling, sanding, and covering. The only thing I didn't remove was the nose wheel bracket.
Balsa filler was mixed with a little water to the consistency of warm peanut butter, and was then applied over all seams and spots which weren't already smooth and flush. A plastic squeegee sold for use with Bondo works well to apply it evenly.
And just like that the covering has started. Well, after sanding the filler, then sanding the entire plane with 800-ish grit sandpaper, followed by wiping it all down with a tack-cloth.
With that done, I stripped everything out of the plane to prepare for filling, sanding, and covering. The only thing I didn't remove was the nose wheel bracket.
Balsa filler was mixed with a little water to the consistency of warm peanut butter, and was then applied over all seams and spots which weren't already smooth and flush. A plastic squeegee sold for use with Bondo works well to apply it evenly.
And just like that the covering has started.
Well, after sanding the filler, then sanding the entire plane with 800-ish grit sandpaper, followed by wiping it all down with a tack-cloth.
The horizontal and vertical stabilizers are done, after about 4 hours of work. It took far long than I'd expect, but the small surfaces generally take way more time to cover as you're constantly doing trim work, sealing edges, etc. The bottom only took about 20 minutes, by comparison. Covering on the sides will be a little "fancy" with the transparent blue windows showing off the real structure and my extra pieces added to pretty it up. So far, all covering has been done with a trim iron and heat gun, and I expect the covering will be finished up tomorrow, followed by re-installing the electronics.
So far, all covering has been done with a trim iron and heat gun, and I expect the covering will be finished up tomorrow, followed by re-installing the electronics.
TooJung2Die
Master member
Please show step by step how you do the two color fuselage sides before you show us the finished product. That is going to look cool.
I’ll grab some pics tomorrow. The right side is cut and ready to be applied. The window to show the blue isn’t perfect, but some trim will clean it up nicely once I figure out what color trim will work with the blue and yellow. So far it looks like the blue window will really stand out
TooJung2Die
Master member
One for Piotrsko. The score is tied.
Costco was out so I ordered it on Amazon Prime. No free shipping, but the price was right.
This is the first time I've tried this method, but it looks promising. Just gotta get some pinstripe for the edges and hone the template making skills a bit.
To make the window in the side covering I started by taping a piece of tracing paper over the bare fuselage side. Holding it up to the light I could then trace an outline of where the holes in the fuselage are. Unfortunately, they don't all line up nice and straight... The bottom edge of all three holes are somewhat straight in line with each other, but there is still a bit of a curve. The top edge has much more curve which will keep me from being able to use a straightedge for most of this project.
With the template drawn I cut out a section which will give me about 1/4" reveal all the way around. The blue covering already installed on the fuselage has about 1/2" + all the way around for overlap.
The template was laid over the covering and used to cut out the window in the yellow covering. It was then laid of the fuselage and lined up with the windows in the side of the fuselage. Not perfect, but close enough. Most of the cut-out was done by hand without a straight edge, so edges aren't the best. Again, a pinstripe will help hide that.
An hour or two later and the right side is done. A little more shrinking is needed in spots but overall it's the effect I was looking for, and I'm glad I spent the time adding the fake stringers as it gives an extra level of detail.
To make the window in the side covering I started by taping a piece of tracing paper over the bare fuselage side. Holding it up to the light I could then trace an outline of where the holes in the fuselage are. Unfortunately, they don't all line up nice and straight... The bottom edge of all three holes are somewhat straight in line with each other, but there is still a bit of a curve. The top edge has much more curve which will keep me from being able to use a straightedge for most of this project.
With the template drawn I cut out a section which will give me about 1/4" reveal all the way around. The blue covering already installed on the fuselage has about 1/2" + all the way around for overlap.
The template was laid over the covering and used to cut out the window in the yellow covering. It was then laid of the fuselage and lined up with the windows in the side of the fuselage. Not perfect, but close enough. Most of the cut-out was done by hand without a straight edge, so edges aren't the best. Again, a pinstripe will help hide that.
An hour or two later and the right side is done. A little more shrinking is needed in spots but overall it's the effect I was looking for, and I'm glad I spent the time adding the fake stringers as it gives an extra level of detail.
It's coming along quickly now, with the covering about 90% done. There are a few minor bits that need covering or touch-up, including the rudder and elevator. I put the engine in place temporarily to balance it while I continue the work. After staring at the covering for the past couple days I've come to the conclusion that this yellow is BRIGHT! It really needs some trim and other detail to tone it down a bit. Landing gear wires were also rusty, so those'll be sanded and painted. So far I'm happy with how it's turning out.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I like the blue window on the sides of the fuselage.
Before wrapping up work for the night I decided to start re-installing some of the electronics. Godzilla was on, the one with Brian Cranston, not the crapfest with Matthew Broderick, and I didn't want to turn it off. It's kind of surprising how fast everything can be installed when all the fabrication and layout is already done. It took maybe 15 minutes to put the servo tray in, the batteries, ignition, gas tank, switches, receiver, engine, fuel lines, etc. In theory it should be ready to fire up right now, but I need to finish a few things including some thinned epoxy on the edges of the covering around the engine to make sure the covering never lifts and lets in fuel. If all goes well I may be able to fire it up in a couple days. The big project will be making windows for it.
These final details take a ton of time, but each step gets me closer to a maiden flight. Covering and trim was finished up around the nose and at this time it only needs a little epoxy along the edges to seal it. Windows also, tomorrow if possible. It should certainly be ready to fire up in a couple days.
As mentioned early in this project, I'm using CA hinges. The control surfaces are thin, and a thick hinge would be a tight fit. The slot-cutter I've got for the CA hinges makes the process so easy it's hard to pass up. Hinge slots were cut weeks ago as I was working on the tail, and after covering I pulled out the slot-cutter to re-open the original slots which tightened up a bit when covering was shrunk. To make sure the hinges stay centered in the surfaces I stuck a pin through the center of each hinge BEFORE putting the hinge in the slot. I was about to glue them all in place before finding out I was out of thin CA..... So that'll be done Wednesday now.
A shot down inside the packed fuselage I put a fair amount of weight forward, and the batteries are sitting about at the CoG. A little testing will follow to see where it's currently balancing, and hopefully it doesn't need much (any?) weight to balance properly. She's fairly heavy already, but the big wing should handle it well.
As mentioned early in this project, I'm using CA hinges. The control surfaces are thin, and a thick hinge would be a tight fit. The slot-cutter I've got for the CA hinges makes the process so easy it's hard to pass up. Hinge slots were cut weeks ago as I was working on the tail, and after covering I pulled out the slot-cutter to re-open the original slots which tightened up a bit when covering was shrunk. To make sure the hinges stay centered in the surfaces I stuck a pin through the center of each hinge BEFORE putting the hinge in the slot. I was about to glue them all in place before finding out I was out of thin CA..... So that'll be done Wednesday now.
A shot down inside the packed fuselage I put a fair amount of weight forward, and the batteries are sitting about at the CoG. A little testing will follow to see where it's currently balancing, and hopefully it doesn't need much (any?) weight to balance properly. She's fairly heavy already, but the big wing should handle it well.
Well crap, CoG testing shows it'll need about 1-1/2 oz of tail weight to balance at the suggested spot. The gas engine is slightly heavier than glow plus the two batteries are just forward of the CoG. Instead of taking the easy route and adding tail weight I'm going to look at moving the batteries back about an inch. That may also let me clean up the bundle of wiring stuffed under the switches.
Adhesive for the windows is drying, wing orientation stripes are done, batteries are relocated and balance is now good, edges of the covering around the engine have been painted with epoxy, all hinges glued, and other stuff finished.
Weather for the weekend promises a bunch of wind and rain so I’m planning to try starting the engine. Plus I may be going to a big garage sale of planes to see what else I don’t need.
Weather for the weekend promises a bunch of wind and rain so I’m planning to try starting the engine. Plus I may be going to a big garage sale of planes to see what else I don’t need.
Before you move those batteries aft, I'd slather on a bit of epoxy around the landing gear plates. I've had those break free a few times in the past and I'd hate to see a battery get punctured or crushed if the plates give way.
Good call, although I like to think my landings are gentle enough to avoid damage.
Me too... but my field is ROUGH on landing gear too. Just pointing it out for longevity's sake.
