Good plane to learn 3d?

Bricks

Legendary member
Speaking of cell towers one of the guys ( no name will be mentioned ) flies FPV quads decided he would land on the cell tower not to far from the field. Landed just fine then the quad would not respond ( never did get it back ) but was screaming all over the internet how Spectrum caused him to lose a quad. Changed to RadioMaster and claims it has been perfect but never tried to land on the cell tower with his RadioMaster. I keep godeing him to going for it to back up his claim about the RadioMaster. I own both Spectrum and RadioMaster just to clear the air.
 

L Edge

Legendary member
Would the Simple stick bee a good plane as well?
You talk about learning 3d maneuvers, since that means different things to different people, could you list a few. That will make a difference on what plane you should get. Are you talking inverted harriers, rolling circles, hovering or things like flying upside down, knife edges, split S etc.

For the first group, a real specific plane is needed with large control areas, lightweight, right prop, be very stable, fly slow and hover with prop wash over control surfaces since there is no airflow to work with. No flow reaching the rudder will most likely end in a crash at low altitudes.
Hope that helps you decide. One thing that I found is to watch your mistakes from a low altitude so you learn. Very tough at above 50 ft what you are doing wrong.

You also need to how to balance the plane dynamically(how about a roll that wobbles of course) to make it easier to say do a rolling circle.
Get a plane to trim out hands off, then see what happens when you input a small amount of rudder, hold that rudder in that spot and can you correct the throttle, aileron and elevator to fly skewed and level? A 3D plane can do that.
 

Quackerhonk

Well-known member
You talk about learning 3d maneuvers, since that means different things to different people, could you list a few. That will make a difference on what plane you should get. Are you talking inverted harriers, rolling circles, hovering or things like flying upside down, knife edges, split S etc.

For the first group, a real specific plane is needed with large control areas, lightweight, right prop, be very stable, fly slow and hover with prop wash over control surfaces since there is no airflow to work with. No flow reaching the rudder will most likely end in a crash at low altitudes.
Hope that helps you decide. One thing that I found is to watch your mistakes from a low altitude so you learn. Very tough at above 50 ft what you are doing wrong.

You also need to how to balance the plane dynamically(how about a roll that wobbles of course) to make it easier to say do a rolling circle.
Get a plane to trim out hands off, then see what happens when you input a small amount of rudder, hold that rudder in that spot and can you correct the throttle, aileron and elevator to fly skewed and level? A 3D plane can do that.
Mostly harriers, inverted, maybe rolling sometime. Definently hovering, knife edge, maybe knife edge spins.
 

Quackerhonk

Well-known member
It looks like the simple stick and edge both have enough prop wash. Both have a symmetrical airfoil, but i think the stick has smaller control surfaces.
 

L Edge

Legendary member
I also noticed that the stick is about 200g lighter
I have nothing against FT models, but you really in a special area where where you need a special plane. Ask Bricks or Foamforce to help pick your plane. I taught 3D at our club, so if you want some suggestions to how to practice. Foamforce nailed his suggestion right on the head to improve 3 D.
 

Quackerhonk

Well-known member
I have looked at Foamforce’s post and i see a lot of flat foamys. I have a foam board profile plane that I think will fly pretty good, but i love the edge and the other ft designs i mentioned and am thinking of buying one because they are on sale.
 

Quackerhonk

Well-known member
Im going to fly that flat foam plane, and if it flies well maybe i’ll get an edge. If it doesn’t i’ll look more at those ft planes i mentioned but i really like flitetest
 

Piotrsko

Legendary member
Yuppa got to see where the horizontal centerline of mass is, which on a high wing is typically down somewhere on the fuselage. Makes roll forces lopsided if the electronics are offset from the wing. I SUPPOSE you could load everything in the wing, have the horizontal stab on the centerline of the wing and just use the fuse for looks, but it wouldn't knife edge well
 

L Edge

Legendary member
Yuppa got to see where the horizontal centerline of mass is, which on a high wing is typically down somewhere on the fuselage. Makes roll forces lopsided if the electronics are offset from the wing. I SUPPOSE you could load everything in the wing, have the horizontal stab on the centerline of the wing and just use the fuse for looks, but it wouldn't knife edge well
That is why you need to get a good 3D plane. It is designed so that the summation of all forces and moments equal zero gives you stability to hover. That is why you can release it and it will hover very ease. I can make a transport hover(video) by rearranging the items within so forces and moment sum equal to zero and enough airflow to control pitch, roll and yaw. Knife edge no due to high wing..
 

Quackerhonk

Well-known member
😀
 

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Foamforce

Elite member
And does the esc go in the power pod or on the underside?
On mine, the battery (1300mah 3s) was strapped right behind the motor on the bottom of the power pod and the ESC was inside the power pod, also toward the front. That matched the marked COG. From what I know now about 3d, those should both be pushed way back to make it more tail heavy.
 

Piotrsko

Legendary member
Be careful moving cg aft. A wee bit might work, a bit more than that makes it un-flyable really quick. Stay inside the range if they give one. They don't tell you in the instructions where stuff goes bad. 3D generally has much more authority in the response to inputs so sometimes you can get away with cg changes, not always.