Glad to hear it was helpful. I'm just getting started, and this was great information for me. I didn't think I would be able to sit through the entire video when I started watching it, but I was captivated from start to finish.
It actually got me to give my airbrush (a paasache VL) a closer inspection and sadly I found that 2 of my three needles have damaged tips (no wonder they've been driving me crazy) and I was able to adjust the needle bearing to fix a problem I've had with paint getting into the trigger area.
Some of his tips contradict Ken's tips but they both have tons of great info.
And after reading Don's site (I'm still working through his airbrush reviews but have read the rest in it's entirety) I had to try spraying some food coloring tonight to practice and see how fine of lines I could get. Out of curiosity I grabbed some scrap foamboard (my daughter had finger painted the other side causing it to warp) and put some expired food coloring in my airbrush to try. Wow. That worked way better than I expected! In fact, even spraying it on really heavy I wasn't able to get the board to warp. This could be because the board was already warped from the abuse on the other side...I'll do some more tests on virgin board this weekend. But I'm cautiously optimistic about the possibility of using food coloring for painting foam board. It sprays great in an airbrush, gives nice vibrant colors, is super easy to clean up ... of course the downside is it will probably run like heck if it gets wet. But I'm thinking I may try minwaxing over it....
Time for some experiments Thanks again for sharing this!
Learned a new way of thinning acrylic paint for airbrushing. After doing some research, I have started using Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish. It works great, and produces a great finish on my scratch-built models. It's also a great clear-coat. I get it at Walmart for $6.18 a bottle (27oz). Learned about it here:
I wouldn't recommend it. I have been able to spray it on untreated DTFB without any delaminating, but I did get some warping. The warped area was only painted on one side. If I had painted both sides, I may not have warped so much, or even at all.
Never thought to try Future (I hate the new name!) for thinning acrylic. I used to use it as a top gloss coat on rockets all the time and still have a bottle of it sitting around. May have to do some experiments this weekend!
Great Vid! Loads of little "gold nuggets" of info.
I specifically like the idea of using an electric paint mixer to free up and remix the paint better. Can't seem to find any at any of the european AB suppliers i know of though.
I'd figure you could modify one of these to do the job fairly easily: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10076320/
Would probably just be to make the head a little smaller, so it can fit in the paint bottles.
As a supplement, I can recommend the lessons of this page with regard to building up skill/practice: http://howtoairbrush.com/
If any of this page's advice clash with the statements of the Badger executive in the vid, I'd definately go with the Badger advice though..........that guy has one thing that no single airbrush hobbyist or artist will ever get: Experience from taking hundreds if not thousands of mistreated airbrushes apart and the knowledge gained from that........