Great Planes Giant P6E Hawk--Electric Conversion

Grover54

Member
Thanks! Good recommendation! Flexibility is always a good thing. My wife was a Gymnast in college and she's proven that to be true on may occasions....even after putting up with me for 43 years...… :)
 

Grover54

Member
Beyond Frustration - I knew "Spare and Replacement" parts for my P-6E Hawk was a potential issue but I didn't realize how bad it really was. It's as though this plane was never manufactured. I've heard some parts are available outside the US but can't find a website that even claims to have parts.

I've been able to reconstruct and scab in most of the repairs with great success but I'm at a loss how to repair the Interplane Struts (GPMA2852). The lower connection point of the strut that attaches to the strut brackets and then to the wing, snapped off about 1/4". It looks like the strut itself is fiberglass but I have no clue how to reconstruct the 1/4" on the strut with a hole at the end to reattach to the strut bracket.

A.Interwing Struts.2.jpg


I only need one but I'm beginning to think my only option is to find a P-6E that crashed or is damaged that someone doesn't want to try and rebuild and buy it for parts. This is the only thing holding me back from getting this baby back in the air. Anyone have any ideas?
 

Seahunter

Active member
I've been following this thread with a lot of interest as I've always loved that model. I just ran a search for these parts and I did locate the parts listing for the GPMA2852 at the Great Planes website. Its listed under discontinued items and although the part is listed, they say availability of the part is doubtful. You might go to their website and do a parts request, can't hurt. Its hard to really tell in a 2D photo, but is the strut joint a fiberglass core right to the end? If so you might be able to make a new bracket out of an aluminum roofing screw flattening out the end on an anvil then drilling the end of the strut and epoxying the screw threads into the hole. Clear as mud???
 

Grover54

Member
I've been following this thread with a lot of interest as I've always loved that model. I just ran a search for these parts and I did locate the parts listing for the GPMA2852 at the Great Planes website. Its listed under discontinued items and although the part is listed, they say availability of the part is doubtful. You might go to their website and do a parts request, can't hurt. Its hard to really tell in a 2D photo, but is the strut joint a fiberglass core right to the end? If so you might be able to make a new bracket out of an aluminum roofing screw flattening out the end on an anvil then drilling the end of the strut and epoxying the screw threads into the hole. Clear as mud???
I'm open to any ideas and I think I get your concept. It's worth a try. As far as the GP website I've been there many times and they've been unresponsive since the company that bought them out has gone BKO but Horizon has taken over but they're an empty suit as most of the real hobby suppliers have become. Very sad but thank you for your input.
 

Grover54

Member
I've been following this thread with a lot of interest as I've always loved that model. I just ran a search for these parts and I did locate the parts listing for the GPMA2852 at the Great Planes website. Its listed under discontinued items and although the part is listed, they say availability of the part is doubtful. You might go to their website and do a parts request, can't hurt. Its hard to really tell in a 2D photo, but is the strut joint a fiberglass core right to the end? If so you might be able to make a new bracket out of an aluminum roofing screw flattening out the end on an anvil then drilling the end of the strut and epoxying the screw threads into the hole. Clear as mud???
After sleeping on it and examining the strut closely I think you're right on the money in terms of your idea. I don't have a 3D image of the strut post but the strut's thickness is approximately 3/16". I think I can center and drill a small 1/16" vertical hole in the end of the strut and screw in a small eyelet screw. If it works I'll unscrew it and epoxy it in place. Stay tuned and thanks again for the great idea!
a.eyelet screw.jpg
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I would honestly try to make a clean cut across the strut and use aircraft ply to complete the cut off ends with epoxy, using the good one as a reference. If you want to fare in the ply piece you can use some lightweight sculpting material from the craft store. Then maybe do a finish coat of epoxy. The green on this airplane is pretty standard so it would not be hard to color match some paint.
 

Grover54

Member
I would honestly try to make a clean cut across the strut and use aircraft ply to complete the cut off ends with epoxy, using the good one as a reference. If you want to fare in the ply piece you can use some lightweight sculpting material from the craft store. Then maybe do a finish coat of epoxy. The green on this airplane is pretty standard so it would not be hard to color match some paint.
That's another great idea, thanks but wouldn't I need to insert the ply into some sort of crosscut or slot cut into the fiber to get a good grip? Would it be strong enough to just epoxy the clean cut ends together?
 
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Grover54

Member
Ok all you P-6E pilots who've been following this thread here is what I've done so far. I made a clean cross cut like Josh suggested and drilled a small 1/64 hole vertically in the middle of the strut about 1/4" deep. I screwed in a #216 screw eyelet. It fit snug w/o cracking so I unscrewed it and applied some epoxy to the hole and screwed the eyelet back in.
Strut .eyelet 2.jpg

I laid the strut on the other strut to get a good comparison before I actually applied the epoxy to the hole. I think I have a good match. My next step is deciding if I should dip the entire end and screw into epoxy and shape it to match. I can drill through the hole after it cures and I'm sure it'll make it more of a "one-piece" fix and add a lot of strength to the repair. I can always paint it to match. Any comments?
Strut .eyelet 1.jpg
 

Grover54

Member
After watching several reviews and videos on Epoxy putty, I decided to go that route since it seems I can sculpt it a bit to the correct form and with the eyelet in the center I think it will give it the additional grip and strength for a good fix. I chose JB Steel Stick. Available at any Auto Parts store.

Epoxy Putty.JPG


Cut about 1/2" off the stick and worked it with fingers, kneading it together into one dark gray colored ball. I pressed it in place and worked it around the strut and into the eyelet smoothing as I went then roughly shaped it like the other strut. I poked a tooth pick in the putty and through the eyelet so I knew where to drill the hole after curing. I purposely made it a bit thicker than I needed so I had plenty of surface to sand without breaking into the substrate.

First strut fix.JPG

Looks rough but I'll post a picture of the finished product if it works out. Footnote: FYI - If you use this putty it does set up pretty quickly so you only have about 10 minutes to get where you want it and shape it. It says it cures in an hour so we'll see later this evening how it plays out.
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
I think you're going to be pleased with the results of your epoxy putty experiment. I had engine mounts on a turbo charged car that kept shredding the rubber. I filled a new set of mounts with the same product. Ten years later the putty hadn't cracked and the mounts were still rock solid. Good stuff. Wear surgical gloves when working with it. It doesn't clean off skin easily.
 

Grover54

Member
Ok, here's a brief update. This putty appears to be working out very well. I sanded the first strut down to almost the same dimensions. I have a bit more sanding and smoothing to do but so fare it looks like it's going to work well.

Sanded strut to shape.JPG


Start Putty.JPG


Second round on the second "wider" strut post, I applied the same putty in the same fashioned around the eyelet and it seems to be following the same fit.

Start Mixing Putty.JPG


Start mixed an press.JPG


Start mixed pressed in place.JPG


Pressed it into place around the eyelet and formed it to match opposing strut. Place a tooth pick in the hole as before so I know where to drill the hole for the bolt to attach the wing bracket.

I'll sand it down tomorrow and we'll see how it fits on the actual wing connection. If all works as expected, I'll paint it and you won't know the difference. Stay Tuned!
 

Grover54

Member
Hope I'm not boring everyone on this BUT..... Drum Roll please!!! I'm amazed this has turned out so well in spite of barely being a novice at all this however, common sense plays a huge roll in most all successes. Here is the finished product, rouged out and sanded.

Final Struts 1.JPG


Sanded a bit more to finish and smooth it up, pic below compares it to the opposite strut. Not an exact match but good enough for the girls I go with! :)

Final Struts 2.JPG


I need to drill the correct sized holes to attach the wing brackets and paint to match.

Final Struts 3.JPG

After painting, I swear you won't be able to tell it's been fixed 10' away. Still need to drill the holes but I'll take care of that later this afternoon. Thanks for following all of this. My next picture will be after she's all put back together and ready to fly. Stay Tuned!
 

Grover54

Member
Hey man, not boring here. I'm taking notes if this ever happens to me! Looking good.
Thanks for the kudos........I've never worked with Epoxy Putty before but this is incredible stuff, at least as of this posting. The real test will be under flight conditions. It's tested at 25# of "Ultimate Tensile Strength" before failing so considering the wing load, if my calculations are right, I'd have to put more than 17g's on it to fail. If it holds up I'd be willing to try it on bigger fixes.

One heads up, when I drilled out one of the holes to the correct size I noticed or actually heard what sounded like minor chipping as I was drilling. There wasn't any chipping or cracking so it must have just been the sound going through the material. I slowed down the drill a bit and it ate it's way through very nicely without any chipping sound. I highly recommend this stuff.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
The majority of your strength is coming from the wood inside the strut, how that is glued or epoxied, and the threads of the eyelet. This stuff is more cosmetic than anything structural.
 

Grover54

Member
Hawk Update - Labor Day Weekend - Well, I got the HAWK off the bench and in the air this weekend! If you've been following the progress from my posting #133 ( the crash), #163 and the various fixes and repairs along the way I've posted a few pics of the finished product below. Didn't capture any video of the "Maiden II" flight but she's beautiful in the air as expected and solid to fly.

My Mentor "Ron L" from our Marymoor RC Club helped with the check out flight. Still have a few cosmetic things to take care of but nothing major. With a little imagination it just looks like a few battle scars from a dog fight. :)

One Footnote: The P-6E Manual specifically calls for the Cub Yellow Q022 and the Olive Drab Q0210 for any Monokote repairs. I bought the last two rolls HobbyTown had and I discovered the color wasn't as bright and clear as what was on the plane. I've since learned to check for a MFG date or other date on the roll. If it's been sitting on the shelf for several years the color has a tendency to lose a little of
it's brilliance. I'm told to buy it no older than a couple years. Regardless, you can't really tell when it's 25' in the air on a flyby. :)

Hawk Repaired 1.JPG
Hawk Repaired 2.JPG
Hawk Repaired 4.JPG
Hawk Repaired 5.JPG


After a couple flights I noticed one of the struts that attach to the Fuse became loose so I need to do some reinforcement in that area but no big deal. That's what these shakedown flights are all about. I listened to the "Flight Gods" and called it a day. I'll have her up again this weekend and post a couple videos. Thanks for everyone's interest.
 
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