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Hello from Edinburgh, UK - Starting fresh

#21
Today, I received the frame from flitetest.... well sort of. The parcel is here in the post office but I have to pay first a custom fee on it as well as a scam of £8 to Royal Mail UK for "handling fee"...

Anyway, I'll receive the paint next we so hopefully, I'll be able to post some pictures of the finished product next week-end :)
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Moderator
Mentor
#22
Today, I received the frame from flitetest.... well sort of. The parcel is here in the post office but I have to pay first a custom fee on it as well as a scam of £8 to Royal Mail UK for "handling fee"...

Anyway, I'll receive the paint next we so hopefully, I'll be able to post some pictures of the finished product next week-end :)
Bummer about the shipping -- you're already being hit hard with the international rate, to be hit agian by customs and the local post hurts!

Sounds like you've got everything but the decoration (it *is* important, but it won't keep you out of the air if it takes too long). Have you started peicing the electronics together yet?
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
#23
I have to pay similar expenses, not as much, but still a pain. $5 for large boxes, $1 for small boxes over 500 gram. Free for under 500 grams.
 
#24
Bummer about the shipping -- you're already being hit hard with the international rate, to be hit agian by customs and the local post hurts!
Yep! I was shocked when my girlfriend told me that!

Sounds like you've got everything but the decoration (it *is* important, but it won't keep you out of the air if it takes too long). Have you started peicing the electronics together yet?
Unfortunately no. I'm still waiting for my bullet plugs and soldering iron to arrive, But I'll try to start assembling stuff this weekend
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Moderator
Mentor
#25
Unfortunately no. I'm still waiting for my bullet plugs and soldering iron to arrive, But I'll try to start assembling stuff this weekend
So Close!!!

You might want to start pulling out parts, loctite-ing in mounting screws and basic assembly. I was surprised how *TEDIOUS* a quad build can be compared to other builds. Unlike other models, the steps you'd normally do once you now have to do *4* times. Spreading out the work helps a bit.
 
#27
So Close!!!

You might want to start pulling out parts, loctite-ing in mounting screws and basic assembly. I was surprised how *TEDIOUS* a quad build can be compared to other builds. Unlike other models, the steps you'd normally do once you now have to do *4* times. Spreading out the work helps a bit.
Yes I know, It's very frustrating! Even more considering that I have everything back home (I mean in my parent home in France) but nothing here. I have to re-buy everything :p
 
#28
I started today to connect everything together and that works fine! I got my KK board up and running, Transmitter and receiver bounded, signals received, etc, it feels good! :)

However, I might have a problem with the motors. I just realize that the shaft is reversed for what I need. I have this one and as you can see, if I want to use the prop hub, the motor has to sit under the motor mount which does not feel right. I found this discussion about reversing the shaft for this particular motor and tried it but I could not move it a bit! I don't want to destroy my motors so I guess I have to leave it like this or use the prop saver.

What do you think I should do guys?

EDIT: I should mention that I don't have a vice at home so I could not try what was suggested in the other thread
 
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Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Moderator
Mentor
#29
hmmm. . . I take it you didn't get the derilin motor mounts with the knuckle quad frame? they should have allowed you to mount the motor upside down and connect the collet prop adapter on the long side of the shaft.

If you're handy with tinsnips and drilling holes, you could *make* a similar mount to screw on to the end of the boom with locally available materials -- I'm thinking a small piece of thin/sturdy sheet metal might be do-able, but that'll depend on your skill with the material

The prop-saver adapter is less than ideal, but for what you'll be swinging, it should be passable -- problem with quads is the agility is entirely dependent on how responsive the props are to throttle changes. Even a tight prop adapter will have some slippage when changing speed -- enough to notice, but won't ruin the flight. You'll still have to find a way to deal with that motor shaft sticking out the back -- drilling a long hole in the boom is less than ideal -- get the motor slightly off level and it'll rub against the boom and cost you power and service life.

If you choose to go this route, make sure the band is *TIGHT*. don't use the rubber O-rings, they're usually too loose. try small rubber bands, doubled /tripled/quadrupled . . . whatever it takes to hold it on hard. It should take some doing to get it on -- if it's easy for you to put on, it's easy for the motor to sling off.
 
#31
hmmm. . . I take it you didn't get the derilin motor mounts with the knuckle quad frame? they should have allowed you to mount the motor upside down and connect the collet prop adapter on the long side of the shaft.

If you're handy with tinsnips and drilling holes, you could *make* a similar mount to screw on to the end of the boom with locally available materials -- I'm thinking a small piece of thin/sturdy sheet metal might be do-able, but that'll depend on your skill with the material

The prop-saver adapter is less than ideal, but for what you'll be swinging, it should be passable -- problem with quads is the agility is entirely dependent on how responsive the props are to throttle changes. Even a tight prop adapter will have some slippage when changing speed -- enough to notice, but won't ruin the flight. You'll still have to find a way to deal with that motor shaft sticking out the back -- drilling a long hole in the boom is less than ideal -- get the motor slightly off level and it'll rub against the boom and cost you power and service life.

If you choose to go this route, make sure the band is *TIGHT*. don't use the rubber O-rings, they're usually too loose. try small rubber bands, doubled /tripled/quadrupled . . . whatever it takes to hold it on hard. It should take some doing to get it on -- if it's easy for you to put on, it's easy for the motor to sling off.
Do you talk about that? If that the case, I bought that with the frame but with the actual motor configuration, the motor will be under the "plate" with the shaft going up through the plate. Do you see what I mean or am I not clear at all?

Why not take off the prop saver and mount your collet adapter on the bell side?
Good question. It's because on this motor, the prop saver and the magnet front housing are one a same piece :(
 

xuzme720

Dedicated foam bender
Mentor
#32
Ahh, I didn't realize the propsaver was part of the bell. That is a very strange design...

You can mount them under the plate, but it puts the props very close to the booms. It WILL work like that but it maximizes propwash effects and can introduce some funky vibrations. I would try Dans route and use the prop savers with the motors mounted above the plates. Just make very sure that the bands are VERY secure. You do not want those props moving in relation to the propsaver.
 
#33
Ahh, I didn't realize the propsaver was part of the bell. That is a very strange design...

You can mount them under the plate, but it puts the props very close to the booms. It WILL work like that but it maximizes propwash effects and can introduce some funky vibrations. I would try Dans route and use the prop savers with the motors mounted above the plates. Just make very sure that the bands are VERY secure. You do not want those props moving in relation to the propsaver.
Yeah, this is exactly what I was affraid of. It will be too close to the booms so I have to go with the prop saver. Means that I have to order some rubbers ring on HK... again :'(
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
#34
Yeah, this is exactly what I was affraid of. It will be too close to the booms so I have to go with the prop saver. Means that I have to order some rubbers ring on HK... again :'(
You can use silicone or latex surgical or exercise tubing to "cut" some of your own bands. Silicone tubing has best sunlight resistance.

Thurmond
 
#35
You can use silicone or latex surgical or exercise tubing to "cut" some of your own bands. Silicone tubing has best sunlight resistance.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'm not sure where to find that but I'll try. Do you think that the classic small rubber bands can do the trick? Will it be enough?
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
#36
You might try O-rings from an auto parts store but they must be VERY tight. Regular rubber bands won't do it.

Thurmond
 
#38
I received today the frame from flitetest and I must say, I'm really impressed by the quality of the product as well as the packaging.
It's really awesome, I can't wait to start building it :D
 

Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Moderator
Mentor
#39
I received today the frame from flitetest and I must say, I'm really impressed by the quality of the product as well as the packaging.
It's really awesome, I can't wait to start building it :D
Very cool! Can't wait to see it built ;)
 
#40
Hi!

Regarding the my questions about the motors and how to mount them, I was watching again yesterday, the video of the anycopter build (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_bDJ-esG4A) and I spotted that David mounted his X quadcopter with the same motors as mine and mounted below the plate (with the prop hub). So I assume that there is no problem doing so after all :p

Anyway, if it turns out to be any issue, do you think this motor can replace my Park300 1380Kv?