Help my quad wont fly

[JackNZ]

A few months ago i bought parts for a 3 inch quad
i'm using:
Mateksys F405-AIO
4x Spedix ES 30 HV
4x Emax 1306

I tried printing a frame and got it working bit it had quite bad vibrations and the motors heated up.
after that I got some some rubber standoffs for the FC and I tried messing with the filter and I did two flites in before the the FC died.
I then bought:
Emax skyline 32 advanced
Diatone V8.3 LC Filtered PDB Power Hub
Diatone Crusader GT2 Stretch X 130 frame

now it has crazy vibrations, I tried soft mounting the motors which made it worce and I dont know how to adjust the filters in cleenflight.
Does anyone know how to make it fly?

 

[JackNZ]

I got it flying!!!
all I did was flash Betaflight and it works fine, although it doesn't show magnetometer anymore which isn't a problem at the moment as I still don't know how to setup Mag & Baro.
I don't know why cleenflight doesn't work though

 

[PsyBorg]

I am glad to hear you have got this to fly.

I do however have to guess and say you are newer to building quads with the combinations you chose. I would be very careful with this 35 amp exc pushing 12 amp motors. That is potentially a flying fireball. Lower amp esc can only push so hard and when they peak thats all they can give. Motors on the other hand will take as much power and keep spinning up past their limits and keep drawing as much current as you can feed them as there is no limiting factors other then structural aspects like windings capability to safely flow current or even max rpm of bearing before they disintegrate or even heat up so much they weld themselves.

More then likely the heat and vibrations you got initially were due to clean flights not up to speed stock pids coupled with too much power getting pushed thru motors at potentially over twice its safe limits. I am not saying this will not work but I would seriously monitor heat and amp draw as this could also push your batteries past their limits as well causing other issues.

 

[JackNZ]

thanks I do have some 25amp ESCs that I was intending to use on a smaller quad that I could use.
Here is a picture and video of my quad

 

[PsyBorg]

Oh that does not fly near as bad as I pictured from your write up earlier. Some tuning and finding a happy spot you are comfortable with rates on and that will be a nice little flyer.

 

[JackNZ]

thats just the stock rates from betaflight, all I did was flash betaflight and set modes & arm switch.
it could hardly get it in the air on cleenflight.

 

[Bricks]

I am glad to hear you have got this to fly.

I do however have to guess and say you are newer to building quads with the combinations you chose. I would be very careful with this 35 amp exc pushing 12 amp motors. That is potentially a flying fireball. Lower amp esc can only push so hard and when they peak thats all they can give. Motors on the other hand will take as much power and keep spinning up past their limits and keep drawing as much current as you can feed them as there is no limiting factors other then structural aspects like windings capability to safely flow current or even max rpm of bearing before they disintegrate or even heat up so much they weld themselves.

More then likely the heat and vibrations you got initially were due to clean flights not up to speed stock pids coupled with too much power getting pushed thru motors at potentially over twice its safe limits. I am not saying this will not work but I would seriously monitor heat and amp draw as this could also push your batteries past their limits as well causing other issues.

Could you explain this whole discerption how can a ESC put in more current or amps then a motor can use? In my understanding what will make a motor pull more amps is running a bigger prop aka more load which will cause the motor to heat up possibly burning out the motor not the ESC forcing more amps into it..

 

[ElectriSean]

Could you explain this whole discerption how can a ESC put in more current or amps then a motor can use? In my understanding what will make a motor pull more amps is running a bigger prop aka more load which will cause the motor to heat up possibly burning out the motor not the ESC forcing more amps into it..

You are correct, the amp draw is determined by the motor and prop, not the ESC. You can happily run an oversized ESC, the only penalty is size and weight. ESC's don't push current, motors draw what they need. If they need more than the ESC can handle, the ESC gets hot and dies. If you over prop a motor too far it will draw more current than it is designed for, get hot and die.

 

[PsyBorg]

What is a fuse.. basically a section of a specific gauge wire that when over loaded will heat and break opening the circuit and stopping current flow at a specific amperage. What is a motor a long wire wrapped around poles. The motor used in this instance is a 12 amp fuse (probably a bit higher as I am sure there is safety margin in the data sheet). Allowing current up to the 35 amps the esc is rated to be able to control could easily push the 12 amp fuse (motor) beyond its physical limits.

If propped too high it will cause more drag thus causing more amp draw which if powered with a 35 amp esc will push the motor past its rating and melt the coatings and short the motor.. POOF magic smoke. If under propped the motor can spin up past its KV rating and possibly result in several scenarios like a prop exploding from over speed, a bell shattering from over speed or a bearing failing from over heating.

Will these instances actually occur... probably not but the chance is higher within the parameters of the gear.

Helping people here should not only be to get them in the air but to actually understand what they are working with and how it works together. Other wise we will get people tossing any parts together specially now with this Kwad share thing where odd parts are going to be passed around to in most cases people who are clueless about what they are doing during their learning phase. Id rather not be responsible for telling someone yeah this combo will work and have them plug a battery in and over load it and start a fire or worse hurt them or burn down their house.

 

[ElectriSean]

If under propped the motor can spin up past its KV rating and possibly result in several scenarios like a prop exploding from over speed, a bell shattering from over speed or a bearing failing from over heating.

Having an ESC that is closely matched to the motors current rating will not prevent this (extremely unlikely situation) from happening... Being under propped at max rpm will still draw less current than the motor is rated for, so the ESC will still not act as a fuse.

Helping people here should not only be to get them in the air but to actually understand what they are working with and how it works together. Other wise we will get people tossing any parts together specially now with this Kwad share thing where odd parts are going to be passed around to in most cases people who are clueless about what they are doing during their learning phase. Id rather not be responsible for telling someone yeah this combo will work and have them plug a battery in and over load it and start a fire or worse hurt them or burn down their house.

I completely agree, however there is nothing unsafe about running an oversized ESC. Having more current headroom allows the ESC to run cooler, and will probably live longer than the closely matched ESC running close to it's ratings.

 

[Bricks]

The idea pf an ESC can push something is where it will screw people up. An ESC can only Allow the amount of current that the ESC is designed same as a fuse it can only allow X amount of amps thru it before it blows not push more amps then the rest of the circuit can take.