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Help With Cleanflight. Transmitter problems

#1
Hey all!

Transmitter: DX6e
Receiver: Spektrum AR610 6CH sport receiver Dsmx
flightchip: Naze 32
ESC: Arris 20A, 2-4s LiPo

PROBLEM:
The controls do not show on clean flight. (No Stick movement)
The controls do not work when I am connected to cleanflight and when I am disconnected.
Cannot set cycle time to 1500 as shown in Flitetest video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFf3ybXDuYs&t=831s (@7:00)
CMD [(set looptime = 1500)]

Battery is connected: YES
Chip beeps when battery is connected: YES
Transmitter has battery: YES
Receiver and Transmitter are bound: YES
Connected to Cleanflight: YES, v1.14.1
Cleanflight Accelerometer works: YES
All pins are connected: YES
Receiver Settings on cleanflight set to JR/Spektrum/Graupner: YES
Configuration >> Mixer >> Set to Quad X: YES
Max throttle: 2000
Min throttle: 1000
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding faceplant!
Mentor
#2
I don't know that we can set cycle time still. I think Cleanflight now does that automatically.

In Cleanflight there is a setting on the transmitter tab for DSMX. You need to toggle that. It may be set on FrSKy or a PPM or SBus protocol.

Part of the issue is that this stuff is changing so quickly the videos on Youtube get out of date quickly.
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#3
Cranial is correct, there is no need to set the looptime, Cleanflight does this automatically now.

Can you post a picture of your connections between the AR610 and the Naze? Also a screenshot of the receiver tab would help.
 

makattack

Winter is coming
Moderator
Mentor
#6
So, clearly, from your pics, you're using PWM controls. You'll need to make sure in the Configuration tab, your setup looks something like this:

https://www.google.com/search?q=cle...hVO12MKHcrRBvUQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=IxgIunE14wW4kM:

(I googled for an image, and that's the closest I can find.)

Unfortunately, the docs don't have screenshots, but you want RX_PWM:

https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/master/docs/Rx.md

I forget if Spektrum is TAER (which you have) or AETR... I seem to think it's AETR, so you might need to change that on the RX tab... which is shown above in your screenshot. That is what people also refer to as the transmitter tab (because the RX and TX talk to each other.)
 
#7
Having just gone into CleanFlight for the first time last night to set up my quad, this is still fresh in my memory. I have a FlySky i6 and an SP Racing F3, but it's probably similar. I think the order was: flash firmware, calibrate accelerometer, set the FC orientation (90 degree yaw for me), test the motors using the GUI sliders, calibrate the ESCs using the GUI "Master" slider (unplug battery, slide master all the way forward, plug in battery, wait for beeps, slide master all the way back, wait for beeps, unplug battery), set receiver mode to PWM, set the receiver serial provider (mine was IBUS but yours would be Spektrum), test transmitter (go to "Receiver" tab and move the sticks around and the bars should move), arm the motors (plug in battery and move the throttle stick to the bottom right corner for 2 seconds), test! Also maybe set up your Tx switches to change Modes and adjust other little settings as needed/wanted.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#9
That would more then likely be the issue. It is constantly in bind mode and never reboots to actually function.

Good catch.
 
#10
I tried testing everything with and without the bind plug in.
while testing without the bind tab, all four motors were spinning wildly after fiddling with the stuff under the configurations tab. still no controls from the RX though.

VBAT sensor is on,
Receiver mode set to RX_Parallel_PWM
Serial receiver provider set to SPEKTRUM1024
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#12
The serial provider is not relevant, you are using PWM, not serial.

I think that you have the signal wires from the Naze plugged into the wrong side of the Rx connections. If you look at the Rx closely, you'll see under where is says Bind/Dat what almost looks like omega, +, -. The omega (ohm) looking symbol is signal, it looks like you have your signal wires plugged into the negative rail.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding faceplant!
Mentor
#13
Nice catch ElectriSean. It looks to me like you have both the bind plug in the rx and the signal wires connected to the ground rail on the rx.
 
#14
yep, i see where it says:

BND/DAT
Ohm + -

I have the
WHITE wire to the OHM,
RED wire to the +,
Black wire to the -,

this is all plugged into the throttle port.

Is this correct? or am I supposed to switch the black and the white wire?
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#15
The white/red/black is fine, but the others (blue, orange, yellow, green, brown) need to be moved to the signal side as well, in line with the white.
 
#19
You definitely want to resolder those pins. It looks like you soldered from the other side & did not heat long enough for the solder to flow to the other side. Good soldering is critical for signal wires.

What you want to see is a shiny cone of solder going from the pad up the pin. If enough flux, heat & solder is applied, this cone will flow to the other side. If you don't get it right the first time, clean the tip of your iron & dip it in a little flux. Lightly flux the pad/pin you are trying to touch up. Heat the pin & pad with the iron before applying solder to the part you are soldering, not the iron. This guarantees that the pin/pad are hot enough for a good joint. Leave the iron in place for a second or 2 & remove. Watch the joint closely at this point. You want a shiny, almost wet look to the solder. The cone of solder should have straight or slightly concave sides.

If your solder joint goes from a wet to a cloudy look, it is a cold solder joint & needs to be reheated. Sometimes a joint looks cloudy but is actually good. This is from too much flux laying on top of the solder & you can clean with a water-free solvent. If fact, all flux should be cleaned off after soldering is done.

megabotz