Help with V Tail quad !! issues with lift off and flying
- Thread starter azkiker
- Start date
Doh!
you've got the satellite version! this version will only work with a spektrum satellite with a TAROT cable. It's a nicely featured version (you don't need a full receiver, just the DSM2 satellite, and you can feed in 7 channels instead of 5), but it won't drive a traditional receiver.
When you get a chance to flash it again, go for 1.6++ REV1. It has the traditional receiver input code.
you've got the satellite version! this version will only work with a spektrum satellite with a TAROT cable. It's a nicely featured version (you don't need a full receiver, just the DSM2 satellite, and you can feed in 7 channels instead of 5), but it won't drive a traditional receiver.
When you get a chance to flash it again, go for 1.6++ REV1. It has the traditional receiver input code.
Meatheadedness is common when exposed to Java for long periods of time. I work with computers all day every day. That is how I became infected with cranial rectosis. 
To err is human. To really foul things up you need a computer.
Once you get this part out of the way, the KK2 will treat you right. In a week you will be able to look back on this and laugh.
To err is human. To really foul things up you need a computer.
Once you get this part out of the way, the KK2 will treat you right. In a week you will be able to look back on this and laugh.
Thanks Dan, i downloaded the Rev1, and i got it to fly but crashed a few times and busted the landing gear again but all with the electronics. NOw the next question
What is the SL Low and SL medium in the AUX settings mean? and can you guys give me some setup i can use on the mixer editor or the PI editor or whatever i need to get the balanced or hoverin in one place with minimal effort? thanks again
What is the SL Low and SL medium in the AUX settings mean? and can you guys give me some setup i can use on the mixer editor or the PI editor or whatever i need to get the balanced or hoverin in one place with minimal effort? thanks again
yo homies!!!
i flew it today and i seem like able to control it but and it felt great, but it seems to go forward and i have already adjusted the Self level settings, on the Acc Trim Pitch to 80, P Gain 70, P limit 20. AUX switch setup Pos 1 Normal SL. im assuming SL is Self leveling. i want it to hover in one place with minimal effort on the sticks. Any input anyone?
i flew it today and i seem like able to control it but and it felt great, but it seems to go forward and i have already adjusted the Self level settings, on the Acc Trim Pitch to 80, P Gain 70, P limit 20. AUX switch setup Pos 1 Normal SL. im assuming SL is Self leveling. i want it to hover in one place with minimal effort on the sticks. Any input anyone?
Robs pointing to the right track. Once you've gotten enough trim it'll hover a touch easier
As for the sl mix, it combines self level with acro - with the stick centered, it's in full self level. On the edge, its in full acro. In between, its a mix of the two. The low/medium/high sets how much throw it takes to transition how big the self level center is, and how fast self level re-engauges after returning to center. Slowly work your way up with them - personally I stay put of full self level unless I'm landing, and split time between low and medium. I've flown on high before, but it's too agile for my taste(so far, on my setup).
As for the sl mix, it combines self level with acro - with the stick centered, it's in full self level. On the edge, its in full acro. In between, its a mix of the two. The low/medium/high sets how much throw it takes to transition how big the self level center is, and how fast self level re-engauges after returning to center. Slowly work your way up with them - personally I stay put of full self level unless I'm landing, and split time between low and medium. I've flown on high before, but it's too agile for my taste(so far, on my setup).
ok so i should just keep focusing on the ACC trim then, and Dan you lost me on the topic of SLmix , stick centered and edge and all that. sorry man im completely new at this. And like i said im just meathead getting into quads and this technical stuff. wat do u mean by stick is centered or at the edge. wht do u recomend i keep the POS 1 on Normal SL?
Think of it this way, the acro mode is singing one song to your ESCs while the SL is singing another. The mix mode literally mixes these two songs depending on where the aileron/elevator stick is positioned.
When you let go off the stick, the springs pull it to center, and in the mix mode will only let the ESCs hear the SL song. Move the stick to the outside edge, and now the ESCs only hear the acro song. It's a smooth transition between those two, but the high/medium /low change how it transitions between the two songs. .
High begins transitioning to the acro song almost as soon as it comes off center and will move to full acro very quickly. Release the stick, and it will more slowly move the song back to SL.
Low will let you move the stick a little bit off center before starting the transition, then slowly switch between songs as you move outward. Unlike high which would be fully acro by mid stick, low needs to go almost full stick before the self level song is no longer heard. Release the stick, and it quickly returns to full self level.
Medium, of course, is somewhere in the middle.
Play with it a bit when you get a chance, starting low, and you'll see it acts a lot more stable than acro, but far more agile than SL, and almost identical to SL if you keep the stick close to center.
wow Thanks Dan!!! that made things crystal, and does having low battery on the reciever affect the quad too? i noticed when the drone has a good charge but the bat is low on the receiver it starts oscillate abit. and how many Lipos do you guys have as spare. I just have one and i have to keep charging everytime i practice. seem like my lipo is losing charge fast
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Cyberdactyl
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Beautiful analogy there CraftyD!
Every once in awhile make it clearer instead of confusing - I try to be consistently confusing, but I can't have success every time
I have 4 3s2200s I swap between, but I generally buy batteries in pairs - When the first pair of 2200s worked so well, I bought another set. I also generally charge 2 in series at the 1c rate
I have noticed I need a touch higher throttle stick as the pack drains, but the stability is pretty consistent for the whole flight. What do youuse to decided the battery is ready to stop? Do you let it cool before recharging?
I have 4 3s2200s I swap between, but I generally buy batteries in pairs - When the first pair of 2200s worked so well, I bought another set. I also generally charge 2 in series at the 1c rate
I have noticed I need a touch higher throttle stick as the pack drains, but the stability is pretty consistent for the whole flight. What do youuse to decided the battery is ready to stop? Do you let it cool before recharging?
I use a lipo indicator that flashes a red light when the battery is getting low. It has two levels of beeps, caution and urgent warning, and I don't let my lipos go far down enough to beep at me often. When the lipo alarm starts blinking a red light, I land and swap. This is about the time I notice that I need a touch more stick to stay flying.
I also have 4 3S2200s. I buy in pairs and I date my batteries (I know which I bought in June and which ones I bought in October). I let my batteries sit and cool for 10-20 minutes before I re-charge them and I charge them in series 2 at a time at 1c also.
I am about to build my third flying toy (Bat Bone!) and will try a 3S 3000 and some bigger motors and will buy two of them. I figure two per copter or 15-30 minutes of flight on hand per copter will keep me in practice.
I also have 4 3S2200s. I buy in pairs and I date my batteries (I know which I bought in June and which ones I bought in October). I let my batteries sit and cool for 10-20 minutes before I re-charge them and I charge them in series 2 at a time at 1c also.
I am about to build my third flying toy (Bat Bone!) and will try a 3S 3000 and some bigger motors and will buy two of them. I figure two per copter or 15-30 minutes of flight on hand per copter will keep me in practice.
i dont use anything. its just when i have to increase the throttle to keep it in flight and at time it starts to oscillate when the battery is low. Then i use my Voltmeter to check on how much is left. But do i need extra LIpo packs? i was thinkin of gettin 4000mah one so i can fly abit longer. what do you recommend?
Cyberdactyl
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Once the cells pass under ~3.3V you're limiting the life and charge holding ability. That means don't let a 3S go under 9.9V. Better yet, play it safe and shut down the device when in the low 10's.
I have my KK2 and my buzzers set at 10.5-10.6V.
I have my KK2 and my buzzers set at 10.5-10.6V.
If you are noticing a drop in power/throttle, your battery is already low. 3V is not the end of the world, but it is on the very low side for keeping your batteries healthy and long lasting. You probably haven't done too much damage but you need to get some more batteries so you don't feel like you NEED to fly longer/charge faster and kill the battery with misuse. Josh tends to abuse his as well, so you're not alone, but since the guys at Flitetest are in a position to get many more batteries, I don't think it's as big a deal for him, as it is for those of us on a tighter budget.
Hobbyking has a few types of battery alarms but for multi's, you should try to get one that is adjustable.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...2_8S_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm.html
Hobbyking has a few types of battery alarms but for multi's, you should try to get one that is adjustable.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...2_8S_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm.html
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Cyberdactyl
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
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