Help!
- Thread starter Learner
- Start date
"Corpse"
Legendary member
Weird, I don't use the KK2 boards. I usually use miniquad FC's.
I would check the wiring on the motors to the esc's first. Once you are happy with that, go to your PDB connections and check. After that, check your FC. I try to always start with the motors and move towards the FC when you are checking stuff.
I would check the wiring on the motors to the esc's first. Once you are happy with that, go to your PDB connections and check. After that, check your FC. I try to always start with the motors and move towards the FC when you are checking stuff.
JasonK
Participation Award Recipient
my first though would be that you have the board upside down, so it thinks it is upside down.
beyond that, we would need more details.
IE -> if you hold the quad and throttle up, does it spin up all 4 blades? do you feel torque like it wants to roll over?
does it fly with middling levels of throttle? (it more the a little, but not max)
how does the quad behave (in your hand) if you start with it upside down?
have you verified that all the motors turn the correct direction when activated?
is your yawn input on your controller at neutral? (if not, this could explane the low throttle situation were 2 motors are spinning and others are not)
beyond that, we would need more details.
IE -> if you hold the quad and throttle up, does it spin up all 4 blades? do you feel torque like it wants to roll over?
does it fly with middling levels of throttle? (it more the a little, but not max)
how does the quad behave (in your hand) if you start with it upside down?
have you verified that all the motors turn the correct direction when activated?
is your yawn input on your controller at neutral? (if not, this could explane the low throttle situation were 2 motors are spinning and others are not)
Wow a KK2 1.5. Man I haven't used one since 2014 or so. 
Most often the cause of the instant flip is having the ESCs connected to the flight controller in the wrong pins. If you have the ESC for motor 3 connected to M4 on the KK2 and the ESC for motor 4 connected to M3 on the KK2, or any other such swap, the copter will flip.
Do all the motors start at the same time? If not, the ESCs are not properly calibrated. When your copter is on the ground or on the bench, the motors will do funny things trying to keep the copter level. You can't trust how your motors act on the ground. All you can really look for is if they don't start at the same time.
Did you calibrate level on the KK2?
Does the arrow on the KK2 point at the front of the copter?
Do you have any props on upside down? Writing always faces up on a quad rotor. Sometimes people like to flip over two CCW props and spin them CW... nope...
Do you have a reversed control on your remote? If you have roll reversed, the harder right you push to counter a left roll, the harder left the copter will roll.
I would look for these problems in that order.
When you take off, you want to POP the copter up about a meter. Get the copter up out of the prop wash. I like to put a dinner plate out in a field of nice, soft, fluffy, grass and take off from that whenever I POP a new copter up. It makes for less repair work.
Welcome to the FliteTest forums @Learner.
Most often the cause of the instant flip is having the ESCs connected to the flight controller in the wrong pins. If you have the ESC for motor 3 connected to M4 on the KK2 and the ESC for motor 4 connected to M3 on the KK2, or any other such swap, the copter will flip.
Do all the motors start at the same time? If not, the ESCs are not properly calibrated. When your copter is on the ground or on the bench, the motors will do funny things trying to keep the copter level. You can't trust how your motors act on the ground. All you can really look for is if they don't start at the same time.
Did you calibrate level on the KK2?
Does the arrow on the KK2 point at the front of the copter?
Do you have any props on upside down? Writing always faces up on a quad rotor. Sometimes people like to flip over two CCW props and spin them CW... nope...
Do you have a reversed control on your remote? If you have roll reversed, the harder right you push to counter a left roll, the harder left the copter will roll.
I would look for these problems in that order.
When you take off, you want to POP the copter up about a meter. Get the copter up out of the prop wash. I like to put a dinner plate out in a field of nice, soft, fluffy, grass and take off from that whenever I POP a new copter up. It makes for less repair work.
Welcome to the FliteTest forums @Learner.
Agree with you!
tristantrc
New member
Hi! Does anyone know how big of a motor and ESC the "KK2 flight control" could handle????
I've looked everywhere and can't find the output for "continuous current" and "peak current" for this flight controller...
I've looked everywhere and can't find the output for "continuous current" and "peak current" for this flight controller...
There is no limit to the size of ESC & motor. The flight controller only supplies a PWM signal, no motor current.
tristantrc
New member
So does that mean I will need a power distribution board to go along with this flight controller (KK2) ???
Andrew
G'day Mate
You don't need a power distribution board but most people find it more convenient to distribute the power to the ESCs that way. Try to power up with props removed and see if the other motor spin up with more throttle, if they do you need to calibrate the ESCs, people would often found it difficult to calibrate the ESCs with the pass through with the Kk2 so they did each ESC one at a time.
I agree with @Andrew PDB’s make the install much easier, but they are not required. The alternative is to solder all of red ESC wires together & all the blacks together, then connect them to the respective wires on the battery. This can be done, but it is a difficult process.
It’s far easier to use a power distribution board to make all the connections.
FYI, only use 5v power from 1 ESC. On the KK & on a receiver, all of the positive pins are connected and all of the negative pins are connected, only the signal pins are separate. Remove the red wire from all but one ESC. If you connect all of them, the ESC will fight each other, one will want a slightly higher voltage & one a lower voltage. If you use a servo extension, modify the extension, leave the ESC unchanged for another project.
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