How do you search for what "beep beep beep... beep" means?

[Wally Yokel]

Very new to this whole thing. It's fun though. Really it's for my 14 yr old son. He bought everything to build his first plane last year for his birthday. Basically got it built, test flight, crash, broken. Discouraged and lost interest.

Well, quarantine has revived old projects. I decided to simplify and we've built a simple airboat using the airplane stuff we have. Figured one servo and limiting motion to 2 dimensions would increase chances of success. But we've still run into problems.

We used screws that were too long to mount the motor and burnt it and the ESC up. So we bought new ones. Once they finally arrived, realized I got a motor that goes the wrong direction. So, we just turned around our mount and now we have a pusher, which works fine for an airboat anyways. But now after the motor runs for a few seconds at most, it gives us some beeps and shuts down. Pull the throttle to zero and it will go again. But, with the same results. We tried calibrating and that seemed to work fine, but didn't fix the problem.

Here's what we have:
Flysky i6 Controller
EMAX 12A BLHeli Electronic Speed Controller
EMAX MT1806 2280kV Brushless Motor (CW Thread)
Tattu 14.8V 850mAh 4S 45C LiPo Battery Pack

Any suggestions?

 

[b-29er]

so, a few things,
1. you can change the direction of the motor by switching any two wires on the motor. If you're concerned with the actual threads on the propeller, keep doing what you're doing or use loctite on the prop nut.
2. you may check your battery charge. if you're getting 3 short beeps followed by one long beep, that may be an indicator that something is wrong with the esc (water ingress?) and is shorting out/losing power momentarily, although the 3 beeps would indicate a 3s, it should be 4 short beeps followed by a long beep.
3. You may want to do a bench test. put the airboat in a secured position on the bench, run up the power, and give full left or right rudder. If the beeps coincide with the rudder going straight, you may have an issue with your receiver or transmitter (no antenna on a 2.4ghz radio or significant interference with local wifi may be an issue).

I'm attaching a manual i found for blheli escs.

EDIT- If you're running a 4s with this, you are probably overdrawing the amperage, unless you have a very small prop. The specs for this motor are 2-3s, running a 4s with even the 5030 is probably going to well overdraw the 12a, maybe even the 15a burst current. Running higher voltages not only causes much higher amperage usage, your esc might be detecting high temps and shutting down to prevent damage due to overload. If you do ever intend to take this powerplant and use it again as a trainer, i'd recommend using a 2s lipo, since that would lower the power and potentially make the aircraft more manageable to fly due to lowered torque and airspeed.

 

[Ranger_107]

I think that you have too many cells in the battery and too many volts.

 

[Aireal Anarchist]

seems like there is a 2-3s and a 3-4s EMAX 12A ESC

did you buy this ESC...... this is only a 2-3S ESC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SS9RZR/?tag=lstir-20

in this link the 12A ESC is 3-4S
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mt1806-brushless-combo-include-esc-5030cw-ccw.html

appears you have a 3-4S motor , and maybe your trying to run on 4s lipos on the 2-3S ESC check the specs on your ESC you bought

 

[Hondo76251]

I'd say a 20a esc and 3s battery would be better on that motor...

 

[Merv]

I agree with the others, you could be using too much prop for a 4S setup. The higher the voltage the faster the motor spins, faster spin equals higher amp draw. So you need a smaller prop to reduce the amp draw to an acceptable level.

You could be running the prop backwards, which will increase amp draw and reduce thrust by 50-60%. The numbers on the prop need to face the direction of travel in both a tractor and pusher setup.