How to apply minwax polyurethane to DTFB
- Thread starter RossFPV
- Start date
I use satin and apply it with a foam brush. When you see it penetrating the paper wipe off the excess with a paper towel. I've found that if I let it dry for 24 hours I don't have any problems with paint adhesion. I don't know if the finish makes any difference, all I've used is satin. I have found that spar urethane leaves the FB a little yellower than the minwax does. Sealing the edges before you apply the urethane helps keep the paper from delaminating. Wood glue, mod podge or using an iron all work well.
Yes, apply it on with whatever you have, brush, rag, paper towel, whatever. Let it sit for a minute or two, then wipe off any excess.
rcbigtirepilot
Legendary member
what if you don't wipe off the excess?
SlingShot
Maneuvering With Purpose
It soaks in and can eat the foam.
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Have never had that issue, I brush on a light coat and let it sit for 24 hours, good to go. I treat all the bare foam edges with it as well, no issues at all .
Not sure, I've always wiped it off. I'm guessing not much, it will just be a tad heavier. Unless you just slop it on, there is not much to wipe off.
I've never had an issue with the poly eating the foam.
I always use the oil based product as the water based can lift the paper. I've heard you can use the water based poly if you are careful, you don't want to soak the paper.
bwarz
Master member
😆 me too. read to wipe it off so I did. Gonna try on my next ms to leave it on and lightly sand as I've seen some others do...looking for a real nice finish.I've never had an issue with it eating the foam. But I ALWAYS wipe off the excess because.......
I think I read it somewhere and I started doing it that way and so I've always done it that way and I'm a creature of habit
RossFPV
Well-known member
I probably wont sand because its extra work that you cant notice when its flying
rockyflyer
New member
Most everyone I know recommends and uses oil base MinWax. I use a foam brush to apply the one coat and wipe off excess after three minutes. Let dry for 24 hours before painting or flying.
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
I take the steel wool to it instead of sandpaper, works really well
bwarz
Master member
yes that's actually what I was supposed to say. I actually love the finishes on your builds!
bwarz
Master member
I've actually used the oil based minwax. As noted above, I've always wiped it off after 5-10 minutes. There isn't anything in the oil based that I've noticed that eats the foam (that's the propellant in the spray paint that eats the foam). I seal up the edges, previously with hot glue, now with wood glue. Up until, well, my next build, I've always wiped it off and my impatience had me putting the first coats of paint on after only drying for 30-60 minutes. Never had an issue, but again like I said above, I've seen others who paint it on and let it dry for a day then use steel wool to smooth it before painting. My planes survive many a very damp morning dew without any delamination of the paper.
Now my method (and my impatience) has provided some pretty acceptable results (I use flat or matte spray, rarely semi-gloss or gloss) but I would love to get a finish such as @Ratcheeroo has accomplished.
Now my method (and my impatience) has provided some pretty acceptable results (I use flat or matte spray, rarely semi-gloss or gloss) but I would love to get a finish such as @Ratcheeroo has accomplished.
RossFPV
Well-known member
I did 2 sheets last night and i used oil based minwax with the satin finish and it seemed like it worked good because i poured some water on (after it dried of course) and it did nothing to the foam. For the edges i just wiped minwax on them with a foam brush but i didnt test how that worked yet. Yes, the foam brush leaves some bubbles but i let it sit for few minutes the wiped over it again it got rid of all the bubbles.
Bo123
Elite member
Reported
luvmy40
Elite member
Reported
luvmy40
Elite member
I use oil based min wax satin applied with a natural bristol brush and I wipe it if I see it thicker in spots. I only sand the packing tape areas. I definitely see a differance in water damage from "landing" on dewy grass. None of my paint work to date is worth crowing about, but the rattle can enamels and latex air brushed paint adheres nicely to the minwax and doesn't peel of with blue painters tape if I let let set 24 hrs before taping.
" on dewy grass. None of my paint work to date is worth crowing about, but the rattle can enamels and latex air brushed paint adheres nicely to the minwax and doesn't peel of with blue painters tape if I let let set 24 hrs before taping.
Foamforce
Elite member
I use oil based min wax satin applied with a natural bristol brush and I wipe it if I see it thicker in spots. I only sand the packing tape areas. I definitely see a differance in water damage from "landing
So you sand the packing tape before the poly? Do you sand again after poly? Also, how does the poly work on hot glue residue?
Thanks!
