I need help with a tricopter frame

[KJ4CCH]

I am looking to build my first tricopter frame.


I was following Davids example and figured that the base of the frame was a little small. So i thought why cant I just make a diamond shape frame.

Here are some pictures:

With davids base (seems small):


with arduino on top:


My idea (more square than anything else):

with arduino on top:


If you really slim my idea down, it looks like davids hahah.

But construction of a square base would be so much more easier.


SO what do I have to worry about? How many degrees are the arms suppose to be away from each other?

Also, if the arms where lines, where they intersect is the cg of the craft?

It cant be too hard to put together a frame, i mean, it isnt providing lift, it isnt an airplane, so keeping her light and built solidly is the way to go correct? It seems to simple.

 

[earthsciteach]

The easiest thing to do is build with the arms an equal number of degrees apart (120). If you do, the cg should be where the three arms meet, assuming each arm is the same length. Nope, there is nothing mysterious about making the frame. Keep it light and strong. Building in some "give" on the arms like David did with his is a good idea. It'll save you some props and help keep the arms intact.

 

[cranialrectosis]

KISS serves me well when I build the first one.

 

[RoyBro]

You could download the Anycopter hub plans and use that for reference. And here's the Anycopter hub build video. The Anycopter hub has holes to build Tri, Quad, Hex, and Octo Copters. You can use the angles from the plans instead of guessing.

 

[Johan]

You could download the Anycopter hub plans and use that for reference. And here's the Anycopter hub build video. The Anycopter hub has holes to build Tri, Quad, Hex, and Octo Copters. You can use the angles from the plans instead of guessing.

That is a great idea: whatever the shape you decide on: use the plans as template for the holes/angles and your angles will be fine.

As earthscitech suggested: making the arms not fully attached (rigid angle with two bolts through body and arms), but using one bolt (through the arm, as a pivot) per (front) arm and use the friction generated by the second bolt (in front of the arm, like a 'stop) is a good idea: this folding back on impact (as per David W design) has saved many tricopter arms...

 

[KJ4CCH]

AWESOME!!! haha I thought it was 120 degrees, my tail is 2cm longer, because I used 12mm booms. But I plan on laying out the drill patterns on the square.

Thanks guys for yalls help! This community is the best for all kinds of pilots alike

 

[cranialrectosis]

"This community is the best for all kinds of pilots alike"

Yes, it is. Thank you FT!!

 

[KJ4CCH]

do yall think i would get good flight times with this motor? Sunnysky Angel

And can it be used with these ESCs: Multistar

and also, what could i paint it with?

edit: Just cut out the frame, how does she look?

 

[cranialrectosis]

I notice in the ESC link that you are in the international warehouse. If you live in the US (you said yall above ), use the US warehouse.

I use spray paint from the hardware store. It's cheap, and works well.

Your flight times will be determined by altitude, battery, all up weight, motors (size, speed and efficiency), rotor size, flight control board and how you fly. My first copter weighed 850 grams. I used a 2200mAh 3S battery, 1450kv motors pushing 8" props and got <> 10 minutes per battery. I live at 6,300 ft above sea level.

I have had good luck with this shop running these same components (disclaimer, I live in CO and I like this shop) :
http://www.altitudehobbies.com/combo-flight-pack-flitetest-rotor-bones-multicopters

I am now going to larger motors with longer props on a 1.65kg copter as the 1450s get pretty warm with the extra weight.

The frame looks good. Got a paint scheme in mind?

 

[KJ4CCH]

I am gonna have to show some school spirit, and go black and gold (University of Central Florida). Black front arms and a yellow/gold rear. I might go with yellow as it is more visible, but is still relevant too the schools color.

I hear the sunnysky motors are pretty good. I think i am gonna stay away from hobbyking motors. They are cheap. But the build quality is representative of the price paid. I have a hobbyking motor for my glider, and it has lasted so far (10 flights), but very powerful for its package (so much asymmetrical thrust!!). But i feel if i begin to fly more complex equipment later on, i dont wanna have to upgrade the motors. I am gonna bite the bullet so to speak and spend a little more for something known to be good quality.

I looked at them motors as well, I think the local hobby shop has them, or something close to them for around the same price (+/- a few dollars.) Ill have to check into them!

I heard lower Kv motors are good on efficiency, so naturally i went for the 980s. The DTxxx seem like good choices, but i mean, I have some extra cash, i am young and naive, and i might not have the chance later on in life to tinker with stuff like this.


Thanks guys!!

YOU ALL are very supportive and a great community. Definitely feel welcome here! hahaha. Thanks again, Ill post more pictures if you guys are interested as soon as get more parts and put her together.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Pictures and video are always interesting here.

 

[KJ4CCH]

Anyone know about BP hobby motors? They look good, and a little more than the sunnyskys. 1000kv with 10 in prop = 12 -15 amps....pretty effective if you ask me. I wanna know if they are anygood i also got sometime on a sim with a quad while i was at the hobby shop. I could do about 4 circles around the field before lossing orientation ( flew to far out). All in about 20min. So maybe an hour or two of training, and ill pretty much capable of flyinh fine.

My airplane fingers take ovet when i get confussed hahaha.

 

[KJ4CCH]

Here is the completed frame




I then broke the tail boom when i was folding back the arms....glad it broke now haahaha, i know where the weak spot was


time to start working on rebuilding the tail section. Could I just drill in two screws into it? rather Davids idea?